modifying a ct26 (7m) to suit 3t help

[rke_011]

hey, i got my hands on a 7m ct26.. appears to be leaking oil so i figure it needs a rebuild..

i rang up a place and they said that most people change the ex housing to a different one for it to spool up sooner..

is this needed or will it be fine..
will a std ct26 spool up a lot later than the stock ct20?



also if anyone has pictures of what else needs to be modified other than the bolt holes let me know..


i just hope that the ct26 and the front mount make a bit of difference..

[Norbie]

What you want is a CT26 from a 3S, the 7M version is too big for a 1.8 litre engine and it will have awful lag.

[CHB]

i have a CT26A from 7MGTE on my 3TC 8 valver.. 86mm pistons which increase the displacement just a little and it start to on boost around 2800RPM and reach fullboost of 14psi before 3800RPM.. i don think it is that lagging...

[The Real Roadrunner]

not to laggy but how much hp does it make.
the mr2-gt4 rear would bring it on earlier and you would still get the same hp

[CHB]

never tested the HP on the dyno though..

[WDE_BDY]

The 7M-GTE turbo is mainly used as it is a virtual bolt on job, there are obviously better options but its pretty cost effective compared to the standard one. Obviously if you need to rebuild it though then other options may be worth considering.

Callum

[kemicalx]

i have a CT26A from 7MGTE on my 3TC 8 valver.. 86mm pistons which increase the displacement just a little and it start to on boost around 2800RPM and reach fullboost of 14psi before 3800RPM.. i don think it is that lagging...

the ct26a is actually from the 3sgte dude

[1JZ-Rolla]

I'd have some reservations about the 3sgte turbo spooling that much earlier.. although it has a seems to have a smaller A/R ratio, I don't think you will get the full effect without using it to its potential with a split pulse manifold to suit the dual entry.

I did back to back testing between the 7M and 3S CT26 turbos on my 4AG originally, and only realised 200-300 rpm better response, was hardly worth the effort of changing exhaust housings, dump pipe & actuator in my case.

That said, I had a steel turbine in both cases, the 3SGTE ceramic turbine "may" help the response significantly more than the 200-300 rpm difference that I found just changing housings.

Cheers
Phil

[Norbie]

Well in any case there are lots of turbos available to suit an engine of that size, eg RB20/SR20/EJ20 turbos are cheap and plentiful, and it doesn't cost that much to get a manifold adapter made to suit the different flange. Putting a turbo from a 3 litre engine on a 1.8 litre engine isn't the smartest move IMO.

[1JZ-Rolla]

agreed

SR20 turbo is a good pick of the bunch of second-hand gear, much newer, well sized for response and capable of more than enough power for a T series motor Steel turbine is a bonus too

[EDIT] I also much prefer the oil/water fittings on an SR20 garrett turbo than the combined inlet/outlet setup on the toyota models.

[mux]

rke_011,

I'm coming into this convo a little late (and i can't be bothered reading all replies) but the diam of the mating holes for the 7mgte CT26 (exhuast man and turbine), they are approx the same + / - 1or2 mm. 3sgte turbine side is dual entry and I believe is square. I'd say with the fact that all it's going to take is about an hour grinding the holes to suit + with the future option of putting a 57 to 60mm wheel up front that the CT26 is a great upgrade. Oil and Water fittings pretty well bolt on and I think that the factory 26 dump would go close to swapping straight over for the factory 20 dump.

it's a little laggyer (maybe 500rmp) than the std ct20 but the top end will see some nice returns.

you could go for a different turbo, there are plenty of sweet options, but with little work the ct26 will go on there with ease.

Bang for buck, it's a great option.

cheers
muxy

[whatthe?]

the ct26a is actually from the 3sgte dude

Every 7M turbo Ive ever seen has CT26A cast on the comp housing.....

[rke_011]

rke_011,

I'm coming into this convo a little late (and i can't be bothered reading all replies) but the diam of the mating holes for the 7mgte CT26 (exhuast man and turbine), they are approx the same + / - 1or2 mm. 3sgte turbine side is dual entry and I believe is square. I'd say with the fact that all it's going to take is about an hour grinding the holes to suit + with the future option of putting a 57 to 60mm wheel up front that the CT26 is a great upgrade. Oil and Water fittings pretty well bolt on and I think that the factory 26 dump would go close to swapping straight over for the factory 20 dump.

it's a little laggyer (maybe 500rmp) than the std ct20 but the top end will see some nice returns.

you could go for a different turbo, there are plenty of sweet options, but with little work the ct26 will go on there with ease.

Bang for buck, it's a great option.

cheers
muxy

cheers for all the opinions guys, but if im only loosing around 500rpm im sure i can deal with that... if it saves me from a custom manifold that means i can do things like fuel pump , fuel reg, injectors and ecu..

i have 2k coming my way so ill be spending it all on the add on goodies..
already got a decent sized front mount to put on..


other than the ct26 what else would be nessisarry?
fuel pump?
fuel reg?
injectors?

i want it to still be reliable.

[kemicalx]

Every 7M turbo Ive ever seen has CT26A cast on the comp housing.....

lol fair point, doesn't mean I'm wrong though Perhaps I'm splitting hairs?

[CHB]

rke 011,
how much have you done on you 3T? would you mind to list it out so we can give some opinions on what you should do next?