GT35R on a 2JZ-GTE

[MR 1JZ]

chris

you have teh nitrouz

make use of it

[Xistant]

norbie,
so you see 17psi by 4000rpm, or @ peak?
what clutch you running atm?

[The Witzl]

Good to see it's all together and running
(All looks so professionally installed too )

I though mos was complementing the neat install of the turbo and lines, by comparison to some of the "ghetto-spec" stuff we've seen in the past from you Norbie (note: i am in no way degrading the functionality of the workmanship, only the aesthetics).

.... you should know that of anyone Norbs, i'm a big fan of ghett0-functionality, so please dont think i'm having a dig
Besides, who needs looks when it works? (and clearly this does!!!)

[Norbie]

Mos: I'll probably get a chunk of alloy welded on the top so I can drill and tap it to take a standard barbed fitting.

Chris: I'm up for a run, but this thing doesn't get off the line too well either!

Xistant: 17psi is the peak and it comes on around 4000, maybe a touch earlier. Clutch is standard JZA80 with extra clamp.

Witzl: I know you understand. STPRTOD!

[Xistant]

jsut heavy duty and stock friction... impressive

[chris davey]

Chris: I'm up for a run, but this thing doesn't get off the line too well either!

Well it is a 6 speed single turbo supra

Not that I can talk

Should be a wicked day. I can't wait.

[The Real Roadrunner]

this is what i meant
then youll have plenty of room


cheers
linden

ps dont worry about mos, his bay looks like ass with no covers or convoluted tube

[Norbie]

I considered the above strategy but bonnet clearance was a concern; the MA61 bonnet slopes down a fair bit in that area.

Prices are really starting to add up:
- head rebuild: $850
- OEM head gasket: approx $200
- ARP stud kit: $160 + shipping
- JUN cam gears: $300
- Sard top-feed rail: $222
- Sard FPR: $115
- dyno tune: ???

So there's nearly $2k and I'm sure there's more to come. This better be worth it!!

[MR 1JZ]

youre not putting cams in?

[Norbie]

Certainly am, that's included in the head rebuild.

[Xistant]

spec's damn good price for a head rebuild!

[Nat]

this is what i meant
then youll have plenty of room


cheers
linden

ps dont worry about mos, his bay looks like ass with no covers or convoluted tube

I had the same thought after seeing this 2J.

[The Real Roadrunner]

I considered the above strategy but bonnet clearance was a concern; the MA61 bonnet slopes down a fair bit in that area.

This better be worth it!!

should be plenty of room there (or at least there is on matts) just use the silicone bend you have on there now (stops you having to mod the water outlet too), it would only take you about 30mins to check by rotating the housing, lining up the silicone then close the bonnet to check.

you know its going to be worth it, the thing should haul arse.

cheers
linden

[Norbie]

It's been a busy week, I got the top end of the engine mostly disassembled, the only thing stopping me from lifting the head off is the crazy head bolts which look like allen key bolts except they're like 16 point or something, so I'll have to see if I can find a suitable tool tomorrow. Then it gets stripped down for a mild port job and it's off to get rebuilt.

You should see the pile of bits next to the car which used to be the top of my engine, it's amazing how much stuff somehow got crammed into that space! Putting it all back together is going to be a job and a half. Sometimes I miss the good old days of owning a TA22 with a 2T engine - about as complicated as a brick.

[Nat]

You need to ask for M12 Bi-Hex key (12point).
I bought a Kinchrome one was like 16-18$ something like that.