i have the same issue. can anyone help us. bump - excuse my ignorance
i now got a ct26 and a spare standard manifold..
other than drinding out the holes to fit the turbo on std manifold.. what else needs to be done? i know you gotta rotate, but which part rotates?
oil lines and water what ever cools it whats the deal with that what needs to be done or modified to fit in..
any other bits that i may need to know please let me know.
if anyone has pictures that could help me along with this it would be great..
Also, anyone got an idea on the price of oil seals for the ct26??
cheers
Mat
1970 - Ke11 - 12a j port -for sale (sold)
1969 - Ke10 - 4age (sold) - .... And I just bought it back again less a 4agenow to be turbo 5K
1969 - Ke10 - 4age pocket rocket
1967 - ke10 - Im the second owner... WANTED FREE 4K TO DONATE TO A GOOD CAUSE.
i have the same issue. can anyone help us. bump - excuse my ignorance
when you say rotate are you talking about clocking the turbo compressor housing? or the whole turbo itself?
If its the comp housing there is a big circlip on the back of the housing iself, get a large pair of circlip pliers and use them to pull the circlip off, then give the housing a "love tap" from behind to knock if off as it will be still stuck reasonably well, 15 or more years of heating and cooling does that.
you can only clock the compressor housing. the exhaust housing will sit where it sits when bolted to the manifold. The water lines are part of the core housing which is part of the exhaust housing. You can't do much tpo change these unless you build a new manifold. to clock the compressor housing see cuts above.
What are you talking about? You can clock the center cartridge from the exhaust housing no problem. I beleve there may be a pin you have to take out, but that's it.Originally Posted by rob1
I put a Supra CT26 into an ST185, and had to re-clock the center cartridge from the exhaust.
hey guys, was just reading through the old forums, saw that the ct26 turbo on the 3tgte would be a pointless upgrade with out upgrading the injectors also. how valid was this comment.
Injectors to upgrade would be
- cheap solution go for Mazda 550cc series IV (low impedance same as factory Tojo)
- 440cc from the 7M GTE I think they said.
also using the CT26 from the 7M GTE with the steel turbine wheel.
i think the ct26 from the 3sgte had the dual flow.
st185 ct26 and st205 ct20b are whats called duel entry or split pulse as they are sometimes known. St165 ct26 are single entry.
All aus delivery ct26/20b from gtfours are steel wheeled.
I dont reckon you would need to upgrade squirters because its only a mild turbo upgrade.
If you do want new ones 440cc ones from a 185 (or 550 from 205) are an option, i reckon they would be a straight fit.
as for the clock of the core, i think from memory the exhaust housing has a big fuck off circlip like the compressor housing does.
The exhaust housing has a v-band clamp, not a clip.
The Supra CT26s are a larger compressor wheel over the Celicas, not just the fact that it's steel. It's actually a larger wheel.
Yes, the ST185 has a dual entry exhaust housing, but if you swap in a Supra CT26, you're going to have to swap over the exhaust housing anyways, so you'll retain the dual entry exhaust.
No, fuel injectors won't be necessary for just swapping the supra turbo in. All you're going ot gain really is more power above 6k with the sacrifice of a little spool. I swapped it in my friends car just because he had a bad turbo, and we had access to a Supra turbo for cheap.
sorry to drag up an old thread guys, but was just wondering what people have done with the oil lines and dump pipe. i know a few people have just used soft lines with high pressure fittings but after time they melt. so is customise hard lines the go, i am assumiing the hard lines from the ct26 on the 7mgte wont fit will it.
also, how have people gone with dump pipes, all custom, or has someone been able to modify a supra dump pipe to fit. i now have one sitting in my garage and wondering if anyone has had any experience with this in regards to a ta22.
cheers guys
PM riceburnaGTV on these forums... he put the 7mgte CT26 on his 3tgte.
...... butt scratcher?!
cheers witzl
hey guys, ended up sorting out the oil return lines on my ct26 to 3tgte.
simply i used soft lines, the hard line that did attached to the block, i removed and in order to fit the return line to block. (using 2t mounts) i simply borrowed pretty much a half inch tap from the local auto store. came home, and with lots of wd40 and slow turns tapped the return line, and screwed in an angled brass fitting, now my mount fits easily, my oil return line is tight. and all is swell.
incase anyone was interested in the process. for the record, i have not had to clock my turbo compressor housing at all. everything sits fine as it was when i got it. (although the clocking may have already been done for another unknown reason, not sure)
goof luck to anyone who is goin on with this.
cheers
Hey guys, clearly i am a slow mover at the moment as i am trying to squeeze in my car among uni and work....not so fun. but regardless, what have people done with the water lines for the ct26. there is one water send on the cooler side, but i have a feeling that is for a butterfly warmer which i guess i can turn into a cooler hose for the turbo. however for the moment i have just jury rigged up a system where i looped the heater nosel and into that hosed placed a t piece and ran my other water line to that. it will work, but it wont allow me to hook up my heater and it looks dodgy as all buggery, good temp solution not suitably for permanence.
any input would be great.
I have just changed the cross memeber in my car as the previous one was a crap job, I now have T18 mounts on a ke70 member and was aiming at using the standard 2t mounts on the passanger side previously using 3tg mount that was longer (hence did not foul the turbo or oil retun line).
The problem I have now is the 2t passanger mount fouls with the CT26 compressor housing. Has anyone experienced this problem with a 2t passanger side mount? Also looks like it could be quite difficult to get a retun line in with out clocking the centre of the turbo such that it is off centre (end of mount finishes near turbo oil outlet).
79GT, with the water lines one goes to the thermostat housing, the other comes from a 90 degre elbow that attaches just before the water pump.
Roger
Last edited by 3jcelica; 14-05-2008 at 09:55 AM.
Ok having looked into a little more, I can't see how the CT26 will fit using the standard 2t passanger side engine mount without modification. So if anyone has this setup could you please let me know if you had any problems with this. I may have to get some photos up to explain better.
Or any photos anyone has of the 2t mounts so I can confirm that I in fact have a ta22 mount would be good.
Roger
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