I was told aluminium is porous and advised away from using it for street tanks... anyone?
A friend has offered to have an aluminium tank made up for my 28. He wanted me to put through an order for ally sheet for him. he suggested 3mm, but lives in a racing world where shaving grams is of benefit. Any suggestions, would 3mm be adequate?
RA28, 1GGTE, Gen 3.
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3778
I was told aluminium is porous and advised away from using it for street tanks... anyone?
3mm alloy would be more than adequate. 2.5 would be fine also.Originally Posted by thomasbl
if you look at most aftermarket cell there only made from 1.6 but i wouldnt install one of these under a car as 1.6 could get peirced by a rock @ decent speeds.
cheers
linden
i always thought that for a street tank it should be made from stainless???
krem
ke20 being restored and soon up for sale
stainless would look prettier ive been told for motorbikes, yes i no a little bit off course, that 1.8 is fine, but i would personally stick with 3 or maybe even 5mm just to make sure.
5mm farkin, just make it out of armour plate!!! lol
3mm is some pretty serious stuff anyway
theres alot of commos and kingswoods running around with ally drop tanks, i reckon you will be save with aluminium
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
Depends on the grade, but I'd say you'd be pretty safe with 3mm.
What grade are you thinking of using?
what would an engineer say? for legalities.
Yep, the guy that's going to engineer your car would be the first person I'd ask ...
Are you going to weld the surge tank into the drop tank while you're at it?
GTE23 - Accruing parts - Packed away in the farm container
UZA28 - Accruing parts - Packed away in the farm container
LN65 - Awaiting 1KZT dual transfer 4.88 electric locker transplant
YN65 - Drive car and cabin donor - ok fuckit 1UZ conversion
YN65 - Additional cabin donor - engineered bogan spec
Im not going to bother putting an intank pump etc in at the moment. I have all the other stuff setup so ill just get a tank made up at the moment. If i decide to clean it up a bit later, ill have him make another one up for me with all the tricks neatly inside.
RA28, 1GGTE, Gen 3.
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3778
you can put a surge on the side and have all the pumps mounted on the tak to make life much easier and it looks nicer also.
cheers
linden
i have one sitting here if you want pics send me pm with your no and ill send you pics to your phone.
I dunno about Vic, but in WA fuel tanks can only be made by people who are certified by the Trans Dept to make them.
You can't exactly make one, and then get it signed off by someone.
Sure, some places may do it, but most wont.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Have you checked he price of alloy lately? A 3 foot by 6 foot sheet of 6061 (in a T6 temper), will cost you $450. If you want to go for aircraft grade (the same stuff they use for the skin). which is a 2024 T3, that will cost you $1500 for the same size sheet.Originally Posted by thomasbl
Chromoly plate is bout the same as the 2024, at $36 per square foot, or $1730 a sheet
And none of those prices have GST.
And you want to make too Talk about a making a sizeable cost massive
CrUZida sounds right too, it would be stupid if anyone was allowed to make tanks
Cost isn't an issue. I will all be done on the house, or for a slab at most. If i was paying, then i would be doing a hell of a lot more planning and research, especially given the prices of sheets. Thanks anyway.
RA28, 1GGTE, Gen 3.
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3778
dont know who does your fab work but if they do it out of T6 then they have probs in the head.Originally Posted by Lachie
you cant fold it properly in 3mm or larger as it will split on the fold line and i would rather not have a tank that is made from seperate plates weded together as it would be a massive PITA to get it all straight and warp free so why bother.
no alloy isnt cheap but materials wise it wouldnt be more than $250-300 odd its more the labour that would be up the ass but his mate isnt charging him so what does it matter.
Bookmarks