are you sure it's the clutch? tried manualy triggering it?
doesnt harm the engine at all having the s/c running constantly.
HI GUYS,
over the weekend my Sc-12 super charger clutch died. and i wondering if i can just modify it so i can weld the clutch up and have it direct drive onto the belt..??
will this effect the motor in anyway other that having the blower on all the time pushin out 8 PSI?
Thoughts???
-Driftin DA' 86 Since way back -
are you sure it's the clutch? tried manualy triggering it?
doesnt harm the engine at all having the s/c running constantly.
just uses a lot more fuel!
im with feral manually trigger the engagement and check the clutch.
It is rare for them to die.
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
Yeah, the ENGINE will run fine, but the SC will generate heaps of heat (Check out TooFs thread on the falcon pulley, same deal, was running constantly. For the price of a new SC12 (about $200), it's not a huge drama to change it...or go SC14But I'm with everyone else, try manually triggering it. Even if that still doesn't work, pull it apart and make sure that the clutch hasn't seized, or something's been caught in it...etc.
RM.
I'm in a similar boat, except my clutch makes a crapload of noise during engagement and disengagement... I assume there's a load of friction material rattling around in there...
I've sent an email asking for price on replacement clutch parts from toyota, expecting it to be stupendously expensive... will let you know.
I've managed to get a lead on an AFM charger... so will need to put a MAP clutch on it to attain the same boost levels as I currently have I assume.
OKay guys... im not that great when it comes to the mechanical crap.. i mean i did my engine conversion fofrom 4ac to ze, anmd that went okay...
now.. i have pulled off the front part of the clitch.. the bit with the springy bits that is the main bolted on it.. and the check the shaft play.. and shes all good.. like the charger is still spinning over really well like when i first got it.
the only thing that concerns me is that the pulley part and the clutch houseing seems to be really really stiff.. so i think something has seazed in the clutch or something is jammed in there because i can pull off the clutch at all... i thnk ill have to take off the sc and get vioelent on the clutch...
now.. what do you chaps mean by mannually trigger it??? you lost me there.
and also on another front.. the oil dip stick on the sc, where does that sc get its oil feed from.. because stupid me.. when i got the motor.. never checked the oil in the sc, and i checked it today for the first time after running the motor at a dift event.. and there was oil in there and it was clean as...
also do you need a different type of oil for the sc compared to the sump.. or is it all the same oil effectively.?? now i know this sounds stupid.. and its complete neglect on my part for even driving the motot without checking this stuff out first.
ideas?????
-Driftin DA' 86 Since way back -
i forgot to ask.. what psi does the sc14 put out standard.. what are the effects on the ze ./... and how hard are they to fit???
-Driftin DA' 86 Since way back -
S/C is self contained, it uses a special oil from toyota, though others use Mobil 1 or other very thin oil in it. It's capacity is 130ml. It seems to simply oil the gears which mesh the rotors together... it's supposed to be clear.
I think I've read that an SC14 puts out around 14psi on a standard motor, though don't quote me...
By "manually triggering" the s/c it means to put 12v over the coil to activate the clutch, this will tell u if it is getting a 12v from the s/c relay or not.
cheers
Craigy
you may be able to pull the clutch apart , may be simm to a a/c clutch , if the coil has died a a/c one may fit with a little stuff arround.
SC14 will make around 14psi on a stock motor with a stock crank pulley. I'll let you know how much HP when I've finished mine
RM.
It sounds like your problem is that the bearing on which the pulley rotates has disintegrated and siezed. Basically making it impossible to spin the v-grooved pulley part, though when you take it apart the splined input shaft and the rest of the SC works fine.
You may be able to replace the bearing, but I just replaced the SC instead.
Hen
PS - Also a quick way to work out boost of SC14 vs SC12 on the same engine is (all boosts in psi)
SC14 boost = ((SC12 boost + 14.7) * (1.4/1.2) ) - 14.7
I'll let you work out for yourselves why.
For those who can't work it out the "why" above, the sc12 flows 1200cc per revolution, and the sc14 flows a shade over 1400cc.
--Striker.
Welp...
Genuine bits are priced more rediculously than I imagined!
About $2950 for the major clutch bits.... my god...
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