Can't get drums brakes off!!! 56k warning pics

**deeps** · 23-07-2007, 04:35 PM

whoa i got heaps off now. It's dragging on the shoes however... I managed to turn the screw with the spring thing raised (needed another persons hand whilst i turned and held a torch)

Now it won't turn anymore though... Could i have turned it the wrong way?

**deeps** · 23-07-2007, 04:55 PM

PHEW!!! got it off!! Do i need to adjust it for the new drum??? I believe it's auto adjusting?

**HRV-00S** · 23-07-2007, 05:24 PM

rep+1 for sticking with it!

Put the new drums on and if they turn freely then they should be good to go

if they wont go on wind the adjuster in till they slide on easy and they should be good to go

**deeps** · 23-07-2007, 05:54 PM

I put the new ones on, and I think they need to be adjusted 'up'???

They turn too freely? I don't know for sure, and also my handbake is now dead... so i'm assuming i turned it down too much?

**deeps** · 23-07-2007, 06:35 PM

I've changed both, and I took it for a drive. Brakes still suck, the pedal still goin too low, handbrake not working. I don't think they're adjusting? The drum just slides off.

I'm guessing I should turn the star as much as i can and TIGHTEN it? Do i still need to raise the other bar to tighten it?

Or will tightening the handbrake cable help? I think it's on the loosest setting (seems it always was on that?)

**deeps** · 23-07-2007, 06:36 PM

I've also read that braking whilst in reverse helps... Does it?? Now i just need to find somewhere i can drive in reverse for long enough!

**deeps** · 23-07-2007, 07:20 PM

Ok guys, when i pulled my handbrake up, i heard a clicking noise from the back wheels. So i figured perhaps it was the adjusting mechanism. I pulled the handbrake up and down about a million times, and it seems to have made an improvement!!! The pedal height is still a touch low, but its definately alot stiffer. also the handbrake is now working, however i have to pull it up pretty high. But it's definately working.

Am I just imagining it? or does using the handbrake actually adjust it? Now how do I get my handbrake working normally? I'm assuming I use the cable adjuster thingo on the inside? but i also heard that was the wrong way to do it. So i'm not sure!

**GRUMPIRA28** · 23-07-2007, 08:35 PM

You need to adjust the brake shoes out to the drum.
With the drums back on, adjust the star wheels so that the shoes are just in contact with the drum (starting to drag when you rotate the drum).
When both drums are dragging put your foot on the brake pedal to ensure that the shoes are centred.
Adjust the star wheels again until the drums won't rotate, then back off the star wheels about 8 notches. This will give the correct shoe to drum clearance (generally).

Check the pedal again for travel it should be much better.

Now check the park brake. Pull the brake lever all the way. Count the number of notches on the park brake as the handle is pulled. It should be between 3-7 notches.

If it is more, loosen the wire adjusting nut on the hand brake lever and adjust the slack out. If the lever doesn't move enough it needs to be slackened off.

Once done check that the wheels rotate with the hand brake off (no drag - if there is drag you need to readjust the brake shoes slightly) and that they don't rotate with the hand brake on.

Some brakes have auto adjust which self adjust when you are tavelling in reverse but the shoes need to be adjusted within the prescribed limits for this to work.

The above is the generic approach for most vehicles. Without knowing your exact setup/vehicle and the condition of the various components it's difficult to be more specific about your case but the above approach should get you moving again.

Good luck.

**RobertoX** · 24-07-2007, 09:59 AM

GRUMPIRA28's method sounds like the go, this is basically what I do and it works fine.

deeps you are right when you say that you think it gets better by pulling the handbrake up each time. This is the automatic mechanism that adjusts the shoe-drum clearance and each time you hear a click this is the ratchet rotating by one tooth. It is easier and quicker to do it with the above type of method.

The reason why your brakes are so soft is because the springs on the shoes pull them back away from the drum and you have to make up this clearance each time you push down the brake pedal.

Do you still have the lip on your drums? (ie did you get them machined or get new ones?) It might be easier to just take the drum off each time to adjust the ratchet rahter than crawl under the car and do it through the little window. You wont be able to do this if you still have the lip though, because you wont be able to slip the drum past the shoes.

**Mr Revhead** · 24-07-2007, 10:28 AM

FIRST thing you should do when removing drums is run some emery tape around the concentric ring. take off any rust scale thats built up.
id say thats what your issue was

**deeps** · 24-07-2007, 01:58 PM

I got new drums... The right hand drum had a lip, which is why it was so hard to remove, the left hand side one came off quick and easy. Well, i think the handbrake technique has done it's job in that my brake pedal is now firm and at the right height etc.

My handbrake though is still crap. I might leave that till i get it serviced next time and mention it to them. They will likely adjust it for cheap/free?