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Thread: LSD or No LSD... What is best in AW11?

  1. #16
    Junior Member Carport Converter Mooro's Avatar
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    Default Re: LSD or No LSD... What is best in AW11?

    I think you basically have to pull the gearbox apart so much so that people recommend replacing synchros and bearings at the same time, plus you have to get the preload correct. I think with something like the SW20 (presuming it is turbo) where already LSD equipped box are available it's cheaper just to buy an LSD box.

  2. #17
    broken down ex guru Chief Engine Builder feral4mr2's Avatar
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    Default Re: LSD or No LSD... What is best in AW11?

    Quote Originally Posted by TooF
    ive always felt the limo in the SC makes it more controllable in the wet.. when it does let go you can hold it sideways much eaiser then the na with the open centre that when it lets go it really lets go.
    i feel and beleive it to bo the other way around..

  3. #18
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: LSD or No LSD... What is best in AW11?

    yeah a sudden lock up will = tail out
    which is why i think the stock C56 one is perfect for this application
    its not a lock type diff
    I DONT WORK FOR TOYOTA ANYMORE
    please, no more PMs!

  4. #19
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic
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    Default Re: LSD or No LSD... What is best in AW11?

    i just finished my c56 conversion and have yet to drive it, still using the 16v bigport though there are a couple of things to be done to make it fit but i would have to say that overall it is not that hard. you will need all the mounts/brackets off the c52 as well as the speedo gear. one thing i might recommend is when your drilling the hole for the shifter in the housing try and use a LONG bit and come through from the inside->out its a little more tricky to not damage the innards but the casting is not perfect and as much as you think it should be dead centre on the outside.. its not (slightly down and right in my case) also if your planning on using the original water plumbing .... the long pipe that comes out of the back of the water pump will JUST interfere with the transmission above where the starter goes, two options 1. cut the pipe just after it fixes to the engine and turn it upward 2. grind down the bellhousing, rear plate, and starter. I took option 1 as it seemed to be a more elegant way plus i have a welder. I'm hoping to get the rest of the rear together today (exhaust and suspension) and i will comment on how it drives. for what its worth, the hardest part for me (besides wrestling it in all by myself) was getting the speedo gear out of the c52. I broke the threads off of one then decided to open up the old transmission and pry it out from there and it still was stuck pretty good.
    Quote Originally Posted by merc-blue
    Cheap tools take all the fun out of working on a car.
    My Rebuild and Conversion.... '81 Tercel 3A -> 4A-GE 20 Valve - ON HOLD.
    BAD ASS 1986 MR2 - Finally Moving forward.

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