1 problem , that isnt mdf its HMR board (moisture resistant chipboard), not as good as mdf for sub boxs but it will do the trick.
Good write up though.
Having a good car stereo is very important, to play those favourite tunes that get you humming along on long drives and cruises. Especially when I'm off to Wakefield Park during the racing season. The obligatory amp(s), front and rear speakers, and a good head unit all go to make driving a real pleasure, even in an Hilux. But the problem has always been the question of "Where do I put the sub(s)"? to give the system that bottom-end punch. I like a variety of music, from hard rock (Hendrix, Cream, Deep Purple, etc) to more modern, electronic stuff (Kraftwerk, Groove Armada, Daft Punk, etc) so a good clear system with accurate but punchy bottom end is essential.
Thanks to Dave [1JZ-LUX] he designed a compact enclosure that will take a 10" sub. Here's the link to his original thread:
http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=16089
My RN85R Dual Cab has most of the space behind the rear seat taken up with audio gear (2 amps, crossovers for front splits, and 10 stacker CD changer) but Dave's wedge-shaped design is made to fit between the rear of the seat and the back wall of the cabin. I thought it was the ideal solution. So I asked him to send it to me.
Here is his design (from the above thread):
and here is a photo of his subs in situ:
Dave's comments were that this design offered only limited low end performance but with a bit of tweaking on the system, offered reasonable sound, accurate and tight. This is the way the Alpine 10" was designed, according to the Alpine website and I like tight, punchy bass, not the sloppy DOOF DOOF stuff that rattles your boot. I'll leave that to you younger blokes.
10 inch subs are really hard to find in the retail market (at a reasonable price). In fact 12's are much more plentiful and considerably cheaper. But I was able to find a Toymodder selling a 10" Alpine sub, which I was lucky enough to purchase.
The specs for this sub were:
Model No. Alpine SWR-1042D Type R Subwoofer
It's a dual voice coil design with 2 pairs of terminals.
- Power Handling Capacity (Peak) : 1500W
- Power Handling Capacity (RMS) : 500W
- Diaphragm Material : Kevlar Reinforced Pulp
- Spider Material : Nomex
- Frequency Response : 24Hz - 500Hz
Looking through Dave's thread again, I just noticed he also bought Alpine subs, the Alpine SWS1022D's. That was really a coincidence!
The first thing I did after receiving the sub was to go to the Alpine Australia site and register to be able to download product and technical information. This was not helpful as none of the technical sheets were downloadable - there was an error in retrieving the PDF files for each sub model. So I went to the US site where I was able to get the technical sheet, which has information on wiring and enclosure design.
The Alpine spec sheet calls for a sub enclosure of at least .5 to .8 cubic ft for best performance. Dave's design is just under this range so that would account for his impressions.
So using Dave's original design dimensions and massaging them in the sub box calculator on the 12volt website I found I could increase the internal volume to .6 cubic ft by simply making the side panels larger to fit on the outside of the box, and the same for the front baffle. I realised that this enclosure wouldn't fit behind my rear seat so settled for a slightly larger design that would slide in behind the front passenger's seat, with a suitable grille over the front to protect the speaker.
So this is what I ended up with:
The sub is mounted down near the bottom of the front baffle so that it would fit into the enclosure without the need to modify or cutaway the rear.
Being a dual voice coil I also mounted twin connections on the side of the enclosure and joined each to their separate connectors on the speaker itself.
The inside of the box was lined with about 1" of foam - sides, top, bottom and rear.
All panels were cut with a joinery bandsaw, glued and screwed together. The front baffle will have some bracing added to it to dampen vibrations. The speaker itself, which is a heavy piece of work, is mounted to the front panel with stainless steel long threaded bolts, a washer and locknut.
The MDF is 18mm thick all over.
The front panel is only temporarily held in place. I'll glue and screw it into place when I'm satisfied everything is right as there'll be no going back once that's done. The speaker can't be unmounted from the outside.
I'll carpet the outside of the enclosure in the future with some black material. This will also serve to make it less visible from outside the vehicle. I'm just waiting for the Soundstream Lil Wonder LW2.240 amp to arrive (also from a Toymodder) before I decide on how I'm going to wire it all up. But the amp will get it's signal from a custom pair of split cables and run in bridged mode with the Low Pass filter on.
Hopefully it won't be too much longer before it's all pumping out the tunes.
Cheers,
Peter
Last edited by infotechplus; 10-07-2007 at 07:34 PM. Reason: Additonal Info
OMG - Winner of the Official "Forum Comment of the Week"!
1 problem , that isnt mdf its HMR board (moisture resistant chipboard), not as good as mdf for sub boxs but it will do the trick.
Good write up though.
Only the shittiest of wines come in 5 litres
boosted 3rz hilux *new project* mwahaha
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...940#post134940
BeRad,Originally Posted by BeRad
You're quite right. That will teach me to use scrap that's lying around rather than going out and buying the right stuff. But I was always a cheap-arse!
I'm sure it will be OK in a box of minimal size, especially with the internal bracing.
Cheers,
Peter
OMG - Winner of the Official "Forum Comment of the Week"!
I've opened up the box to get some photos of the internals, and show the size of the Alpine speaker.
This is the rear of the sub, showing one of the Dual Voice Coil connections. Note also the long-threaded screws and Nylock locknuts.:
Another, closer view:
I chose to use the long-threaded bolts because I was very close to the edge of the board, and didn't want to risk weakening or splitting the mounts with wood screws. Also, this way the speaker flange should seal better on the outside of the front panel. I'll have to lift the speaker off to cover it with black carpet fabric later.
Close-up of one of the connections. I've used OFC cable on both connectors.
And finally, here's the input panel, from the inside:
Cheers,
Peter
OMG - Winner of the Official "Forum Comment of the Week"!
Perfect timing. My Dad just picked up a sub for his Hilux last week
A note for my design: The back wall needed a little bit of shaving on the inside to fit my sub. It was last years model, Type R, 10".
Using a Alpine amp (listed in my member's ride thread) I got the correct impedance by using 2 channels per voice coil, as if I was running 2 separate speakers.
I've also carpeted my boxes now, and removed the screws that were holding the box together. The screws are only needed to hold the box until the liquid nails sets.
I also couldn't make my boxes any bigger as the space between them will be taken up by a '93 Sahara center console fridge and the seatbelts will be replaced with harnesses so I can fit in a pair of Soundstream 6x9"s.
Petrol is for washing parts, alcohol's for drinking but NITRO IS FOR RACING!
My pictures, Returning some time in the distant future.
RN85 Hilux + 1JZ-GTE = 298.0HP @ 14PSI -- 60' 1.956 ET 13.775 MPH 99.49
Project Korruption - Stage 1: The Resto. KE35 Corolla Hardtop daily driver
The SWR1042D was mounted down lower to obviate the need for any rearward mods. Maybe the newer model is a more compact design Dave?Originally Posted by 1JZ~lux
My Soundstream Lil wonder arrived last night, and I'll be setting it up according to the manual I downloaded from the Soundstream website. It can output in bridged mode for either 2 Ohm or 8 Ohm loads.Originally Posted by 1JZ~lux
Did you use black or that light grey stuff from Jaycar Dave? I'm retaining the screws as my research on the web indicates they can add structural benefits. Did you use PVA (Carpentry or Wood Glue) or Liquid Nails?Originally Posted by 1JZ~lux
Can you post photos when you've finished?Originally Posted by 1JZ~lux
Cheers,
Peter
OMG - Winner of the Official "Forum Comment of the Week"!
Yours does look like its narrower with a smaller magnet.Originally Posted by infotechplus
My amp is a 4 channel and isn't bridged and it worked out to be a 4 Ohm impedanceOriginally Posted by infotechplus
I used Satin blue marine carpet from Clark Rubber held on by kwik grip, and Liquid Nail (very thickly)Originally Posted by infotechplus
I'll try to get pics up this coming weekOriginally Posted by infotechplus
Petrol is for washing parts, alcohol's for drinking but NITRO IS FOR RACING!
My pictures, Returning some time in the distant future.
RN85 Hilux + 1JZ-GTE = 298.0HP @ 14PSI -- 60' 1.956 ET 13.775 MPH 99.49
Project Korruption - Stage 1: The Resto. KE35 Corolla Hardtop daily driver
i actually made a small square-sided box that fits a 10" and fits behind the bench seat in my yn57. It houses a 10" infiinity and kicks ass...if anyone would like info give us a holler...Its a sealed unit and goes quite low and is very punchy.
Blake
THE OFFICIAL TOYMODS BOGAN
MA61 - sunroof., 7MGTE, 4.11 lsd, w58
MA61 - Built 2JZ, 9" diff, big brakes -1st car + the toy
LN167 - dual cab fourbie, gu patrol chassis + suspension/ driveline, built 1.5jz
Here is my boxes being carpeted I'll have to take photos of the finished product.
Petrol is for washing parts, alcohol's for drinking but NITRO IS FOR RACING!
My pictures, Returning some time in the distant future.
RN85 Hilux + 1JZ-GTE = 298.0HP @ 14PSI -- 60' 1.956 ET 13.775 MPH 99.49
Project Korruption - Stage 1: The Resto. KE35 Corolla Hardtop daily driver
Something I forgot to mention is that I'm only 5' 7" and have short legs so the seats in my Lux are a fair way forward. I can't move my seats any further back. This means a taller person would have to redesign my boxes to suit themselves in a single cab.
Petrol is for washing parts, alcohol's for drinking but NITRO IS FOR RACING!
My pictures, Returning some time in the distant future.
RN85 Hilux + 1JZ-GTE = 298.0HP @ 14PSI -- 60' 1.956 ET 13.775 MPH 99.49
Project Korruption - Stage 1: The Resto. KE35 Corolla Hardtop daily driver
Thats ok... Im only 5'4"
hehe
Herus
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