1JZ problems, wont rev, Please help ASAP!

[ReQuieM]

Ok so I got a defect a while ago cleared that but I have to go for a full EPA. Not a problem dropped every thing back to stock except for reinstalling the stock bov and remove the 440 injectors. I removed the PFC and reinstalled the stock ECU. Took it for a drive no probs, filled up at shell (Vpower) and added an injector cleaner from redex or something like that. I claims to lower emissions (I assume through a better spray pattern). Oh I put the cleaner in first then filled up. anyway drove it to the supermarket then home all the longer way was running fine on the sunday night.

Thursday morning, I go out to the car to goto the test. Wont start. After I clean the sparkies and replace the battery it starts but wont rev past 3k at best and if I open the throttle more then 1/4 it hits like a rev limiter and stops reving drops down then revs then drops then revs if you catch my drift.. I install new sparkies, with a 5 heat rating to attempt to compensate for the extra fuel. seemed to run fine!

I organise a new epa inspection, this one is now the last chance before the rego gets suspended etc. So I swap the injectors back over to a set of 380s I have spare, not my original ones but one from an engine I brought which app threw a big end, I only got the head so I can't confirm.

Start her up, and it sounds like the engine is rattling like an 80 year old car. I freak thinking the stock ecu has compensated for the 440's. I switch it off and leave the battery D/Cd until today.

Reconnect the battery, ecu should have whiped. Start it up, same rattle. I leave it to idle to see if it just needs some oil in the top end cos it was sitting for a week or so. seems to go but I have that same rev problem back!!

It wont rev past 3k and if I open the throttle to much it revs, stops, revs, stops.

HELP!! I'm seriously at the point where I want to fuck this c*nt of a car off and buy a f&ckn carbed yank tank cos this if F&CKING PISSING ME OFF!!!!!

tried a different line vac line to the map, no difference. The MAP seams to be working fin as it nearly stalled if I DC is while running. I haven't checked the sparkies again but I did check one after reinstalling the injectors. I'm running a 5 heat (to burn the extra fuel as explained) when stock is 6, could that be the problem??

Oh and I need it to be working by the start of next week.

Cheers!

[ReQuieM]

I also broke the inside of one of the coil pack plugs, the little devider bit. Goes on fine, and seams to be working because the car stalls if I pull it off while running. But its more info.

HELP! please...

[ReQuieM]

OK WTF!!!

I jsut went to see if I could pull some codes from the ECU. Hook it up. turn it over, no check light at all, nothing! Ok I go out and try and hook it up again. There is a shit load of grease over the ports so I clean it off a bit and make sure the wire has a good firm connection. Get into the car and firer it up.

and get this, it runs perfectly!!!! WTF??? jump out DC the diagnostic wire. Turn it over and it runs fine again??? WTF IS GOING ON???

I need this to be reliable, I cant have it having hissy fits like this every fkn time I want to drive it. Anyone know what happened/happening??

[Xistant]

take it out and thrash it like the bitch its being!

[thechuckster]

ECU wont compensate for larger injectors - it has a fixed map for the stock injectors - when you plugged the original ECU back in and didn't change injectors you were running way rich.

how old is the oil? how high does it read on the dipstick and does it smell like petrol?

maybe you were hitting boost cut prevously because the extra fuel was spooling up the turbos early resulting in it hitting boost cut earlier than expected?

rattle could be unrelated? could also be noisy injectors?

[ReQuieM]

I was assuming that because it had an oxy sensor that it had mild adjustments. like WHOA! too rich, ok and WHOA to lean. Mayby not!

In terms of Ks the oils is probably less then 2k old. In terms of time; maybe 6months. I'll check the dip stick in a sec...

This is all in idle, so it's not really seeing a lot of boost, and I've hit boost cut before, its not a nice drop in revs! So no I don't think so.

Rattle isn't the tick of injectors, but an engine, rattle. I'm thinking it was just the lack of oil in the head. Something like emo was describing in the a70 thread. So yeah I don't think its related but I wanted to give as much info as I could.

Xistant, don't fkn tempt me man! I realise I baby the little crack whore too much but I aslo know if something goes wrong no prick in the area will stop and help me push it off the road.

[Norbie]

I had very similar issues with my 2JZ when the coilpack connectors started to fall apart. The connection becomes unreliable and when the engine is running on 5 cylinders everything goes to shit, apparently the stock ECU doesn't know what to do. I advise purchasing new connectors from Toyota, it will likely fix the problem.

[ReQuieM]

Sweet. I had an incling it had some thing to do with it not firing right and the ecu going into "SHIT WTF IS GOING ON???" mode, but it had me stumped as to what part! lol

You wouldn't happen to remember what the plugs set up back? Did you have to replace the metal connectors as well or just the plastic plug or casing? I'll go order some in tomorrow if I get a chance.

thechuckster, what does fuel in the oil mean? fkd rings? flooding the cylnder from no ignition?

Cheers guys!

[ReQuieM]

Sorry norbie can't rep you. Computer says no... *COUGH*

[Norbie]

I can't remember what the plugs cost but they're not cheap for what you get. You're kinda screwed though, where else are you going to get them? You just get the plastic casing and the original metal pins snap into them.

Fuel in the oil is an indication the engine has been running very rich; fuel collects on the bores and leaks down to the crankcase.

[ReQuieM]

Cheers norbie.

On a side note, I think I have some fuel on the oil. Slight smell to it. Best to do an oil change before hitting the EPA yeah? Will the filter be ok? it a newbie,

[manny]

If problems persist, crack the ecu cover open and check for leaky caps - JZA70 ecus are at that age....
If it's playing up, you can swap the PFC back in and check how it runs - hand controller will also give you a good range of sensor voltages and circuit on/off status to help diagnose.

[ReQuieM]

Sorry didn't even see your post manny! Thanx mate I'm hoping thats all it is.

Speaking of, can some one with an EPC give me the part number of the loom side plug of rhte coil packs? I went in to my local toyota and after waiting 15 mins for a part guy to serve me he basicaly said he wouldn't look it up for me the useless prick.

Either that or can some one point me toward a melbourne toyota that will help? or any where I guess as long as they will post!

Cheers!

[byteme]

they should be the same part number as the 2jz coils....but for the life of me i cant remember where the epc for the 2jz is . i'll post back here when i find it

[Endless]

Here is the Toyota part number for the individual connectors - this is for the 2JZ ones which fit perfectly and are much more robust than the 1JZ counterparts.

90980-11246

IIRC they are somewhere around $6 - $8 each.