diff problems

[Born-Enthusiast]

Ok so for some reason i have been having alot of troubles with my TA22. The problem is I go through diff's like smarties at fat camp. Now im not running anything stupid, infact I i was running the stock engine since i got it. I only replaced it with a 2tg/3t hybrid which broke in a week. Finnally now it has a 13t sitting in it. Now being 20 years old and male the general concensus is that im thrashing the absolute poo out of my car, laying more skids then a skinhead in a commodore .
However I never really wanted to try incase i made a dick of myself and stalled it so i've driven my car fairly responsibly. With the od occasion on a dirt road or two. Oh and just so you know my Engine was a victim of detonation not hoolaganism. All my diff issues are within a six month period, considering the car is 31 years old something is wrong and im missing it .

Problem 1: The central pinion in my first diff, the holding pin snapped and the pinion was free to slide in and out grinding on the gears. Solution: We welded pinion in place.

Problem 2: The weld i think had something to do with my centre gears being chewed away. Solution: Throw out diff.

Problem 3: Right hand side bearing spilt and concequently didn't work . Solution: Change axles with axles from diff 1 with working bearings.

Problem 4: Broken seal causing leak of oil and in any mechanical diff this equalls problems. Solution: Buy new seal, replace old one, check for damage and get new oil.

Current Problem: Left car to sit while fixing engine issues, finnaly got it on the road again really loud whining ending in a bad grinding sound. Possibilities: seal not sitting right drained oil and hence broke diff, axle bearings no good and locking causing broke diff, back at stage one with broken pinion, anything else that could possibly go wrong.

Im sick of fixing my diffs as they are a pain in the arse to keep taking out and fixing what are my options that won't cost me my first born child. Im thinking something stronger, newer and limited modifications. Any ideas

[oldcorollas]

easy solution is to get new (second hand) housing and centre, check the housing for straightness, change axle bearings for new ones, change seals for new ones. check axles for straightness etc. check diff centre gears for wear, change pinion bearings and seals and crown bearings, get pinion and crown position set properly. run in correctly, and don't drive like hooligan

and all should be good

or, get F or G series diff, do same, maybe get shortened if correct width can't be found, and do the same above.

or buy second hand T series and hop it goes ok

edit: my point was, if you do things bit by bit, things fail bit by bit.
kill pinion, weld it in. weld spatter kills gears.. swap them. kill seal, kill bearings.. etc..

with a good set of gears, and new bearings and seals.. and regualr oil check/changes.. a diff should last 100-200Kkm....

[Born-Enthusiast]

cheers mate don't want to sound ignant but what is a f and g series

[IN 05 NT]

convert a VOLVO 240 diff, there aboyut $200 from wreckers, strong as ARNIE, plus you get the disk brake rear end, a 13t WILL NEVER BREAK IT!

blake

[sillycar chick]

Learning is such a wonderful thing See if this helps you. http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=350
Also, do some research and search the forums, both old and new. There's lots of information to help you out. If still stuck, then ask some more questions Good luck!

[YLD-16L]

I agree with OC, sounds more like your diff had its initial problem and all the subsequent work just added new problems.

I had a 2TG in front of my piddly little Borg-Warner diff in my corolla and that thing lasted over 100 000km while I had it and that included, a bit of stupidity during that time. All it ever had replaced was the outer seals during that time.

f, g, t etc are Toyota codes for different series of diffs. Plenty of info around covering what each series is.

[sillycar chick]

convert a VOLVO 240 diff, there aboyut $200 from wreckers, strong as ARNIE, plus you get the disk brake rear end, a 13t WILL NEVER BREAK IT!

blake

Blake is that the LSD version? And does it need to be shortened at all?

[IN 05 NT]

Blake is that the LSD version? And does it need to be shortened at all?

nup, genuine volvo LSD's are like hens teeth.....impossible to find,

NO shortening required, fit the 23 perfectly, so should be the same for the 22,

i got a trutrac LSD for $850 or $950 fitted (cant remember)

plus you get the nice big 27/8 spline axles, and the 2 piston calipers and big solid discs,

my opinion, they shit all over TOYOTA DIFFS, and are way more common than trying to find the one you want out of the specific toyota, ie MX13 diff...

[Born-Enthusiast]

eventually i'll be putting my 2TG/3T hybrid back in i doubt i'll break it with that either. How do you fix the stud pattern to match the celica's 4 stud i think its 14.5 displacement
(edit) btw whats the gear ratio on these if you know

[Norbie]

For an atmo 2T/3T engine there is no reason to do a diff conversion, the stock T series rear end is perfectly adequate. As above just find another complete axle assembly, give it some new seals and throw it in.

[Hash_ra23]

nup, genuine volvo LSD's are like hens teeth.....impossible to find,

NO shortening required, fit the 23 perfectly, so should be the same for the 22,

i got a trutrac LSD for $850 or $950 fitted (cant remember)

plus you get the nice big 27/8 spline axles, and the 2 piston calipers and big solid discs,

my opinion, they shit all over TOYOTA DIFFS, and are way more common than trying to find the one you want out of the specific toyota, ie MX13 diff...

Is the volvo diff wider at all to the 23 diff? Cos i can't afford any increase in width with my new wheels

Born-Enthusiast, you have to redrill to get the right stud pattern. You should check with your engineer whether he's ok with it.

[IN 05 NT]

yeah its a lil bit wider, but doesnt need shortening to fit