Turbo Oil Lines - into engine

**Scoobzd** · 17-06-2007, 07:48 PM

What is the best way to go about getting the oil return lines in to the head and sump on a 2tg?

How much would it cost to get someone to do it?

Many Thanks,

Andrew

**Norbie** · 17-06-2007, 09:37 PM

You need to weld/braze a short length of pipe to the side of the sump, the same diameter as the turbo oil drain and directly below it, then join the two with a length of heat-resistant hose. It's important to make the path as direct and as close to vertical as possible - the oil coming out of a turbo is frothy and doesn't flow too good.

**Scoobzd** · 19-06-2007, 07:50 PM

Does anyone in brisbane no how to do this "cheap" or can do it themselves and i could pay you to come and do it to my 2tg?

**thechuckster** · 20-06-2007, 12:30 AM

remove sump
take to welding or exhaust shop
explain requirements
give money
job done

this is for the oil return to the sump, there is no oil return to the head.

As for an oil feed to the turbo, find a 2TGTE and copy.

**Scoobzd** · 20-06-2007, 08:23 AM

Does anybody have pictures of a 2tg oil feed line aswell???

How much does everyone think the oil feed and ol return ports in the sump and head will cost me??????

**YLD-16L** · 20-06-2007, 12:19 PM

Run the oil feed off the block where your oil pressure switch is located using a brass/steel fitting that will accomodate your oil feed line and pressure switch.

A better but more expensive option is to run a line from the block to a remote distribution block as the brass fittings have been known to fail from time to time.

None of it will cost much to do properly provided you remove and clean your sump before dropping it off to have the fitting welded on.

The drain hose and braided oil feed will be the most expensive parts...............there are too many ways to go about this to give an accurate guesstimate. It depends on the fitting types used, the hose type, the quality of the welding to the sump fitting etc etc.

Go kick some tyres in the real world at some hose/fitting shops and a fabrication shop or two.

**tba4** · 27-09-2007, 12:53 AM

[QUOTE=YLD-16L]Run the oil feed off the block where your oil pressure switch is located using a brass/steel fitting that will accomodate your oil feed line and pressure switch.

A better but more expensive option is to run a line from the block to a remote distribution block as the brass fittings have been known to fail from time to time.

Just want to clarify...this is the recommended thing to do for all/most motors?

Will there be enough oil going through the pressure guage line to lube a reasonably big turbo (eg gt40 or 42)? Does the oil flow through the turbo distort (decrease) the oil pressure shown on the gauge?

I am a turbo novice. Still in the fact finding stage to see what i can to with my 1fz-fe.

**fixeruperer** · 27-09-2007, 12:58 AM

with the return line to sump make shaw its no smaller than 1/2" (13mm) and high enuff on the sump so the oil in the sump wont stop the flow
and with the main line to the turbo sometimes you have to ristrict the main feed if it keeps blowing smoke i highly doubt you wont have enuff oil except if you ristrict it to much.

**Negative Boost** · 27-09-2007, 02:37 AM

In response to tba4, turbo's dont require that much oil. I've posted a link on a couple of occasions to an article that explains very well how much oil a turbo needs and stuff like L/min. Use the search button...

And Scoobz, the best way to find out how much something will cost is to go out and find the prices yourself!!! Ring around, visit some engineering shops. Don't expect someone to give you an answer on here becuase it all varies alot as YLD mentioned.