My 4AGE, coughs, backfires, splutters and then stalls at 4000RPM, but only once warm?

[phrostbyte]

Hey again peeps. OK I hooked up the engine check light, it found out that my TPS wasn't giving an IDL signal, so I readjusted it and that code dissapeared. Now I'm getting a code that is befuddling me, because it isn't listed on any of the diagnostic code pages I've looked at on the net. I'd be thinking it's "3".

Flash, Flash, Flash, (4.5 Second Pause), Flash Flash Flash, (4.5 Second Pause), etc. etc.

A 4.5 Second pause usually indicates that the next series will either be another code, or a repeat of the last code if there is no others, meaning that it is definately a 1 digit code. I can't find fault code 3 anywhere??

Just checked it once more just then to make sure, it is definately 3. There is the exact same length for each flash and exact same 0.5 pause between each flash.

Cheers,
Kev.

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

Hahaha, wrong pin for the check engine light !

Did you end up getting the ignition timing roughly right again?

[phrostbyte]

Hahah yeah I did, but yeah seems as though the timing was never wrong (As expected.. it hadn't changed since being in the KE70 so I couldn't see how it would be wrong..).

Turns out code 3 is "Ignition Signal", so in a few minutes I'm going out to chop the ignitor cables from the ECU and chop them at the igniter module, then rewire them directly from ECU to igniter, rather than circling the engine in between...

Kev.

[devolutio]

TPS is not a sensor that is required for the engine to run right, hence if it comes unplugged, the ECU won't care. As you said it will give you a bad throttle response because there is no idle switch, but the actual throttle position, the ECU will replace with readings from the MAP sensor.

orly?

i wouldn't say it's running right. It actually is lacking heaps of midrange power (as i've discovered tonight in the rain).

I don't think the idle switch has anything to do with throttle response either.

good luck with re-wiring... sounds like it all could all do with a going over.

[phrostbyte]

Well, that didnt fix it, I'm fkn completely befuddled with this BS... After rewiring it and taking it for a test drive, the only signal that had registered (even after it coughing spluttering and dying), was code 10, because I dumped the clutch into second to restart it and it didn't get the starter signal...

Got me absolutely stumped...

Kev.

[boar]

try the knok sensor
my car does this and the knok sensor isnt in properly
is v frustrating isnt it?

[EldarO]

the knock sensor won't cause this, when i converted my 4age to a ze usignt he gze ecu i didn't have a knock sensor and it still reved all the way out, plus a 4age doesn't have a knock sensor.

i know the t-vis wouldn't cause this, but i was thinking the ecu might not be getting the signal causing it to go wtf? i know its a long shot, if i can think of something better i would

character limit

Eldar.O.

[mic*]

Dunno if this is happening at EXACTLY 4000rpm's every time. If its is, might not be this but;

Have you thought about the fuel system here? Something is blocking a line, clogged injector, filter?

Cold start injector is allowing you to have normal driving until warm. Then your fuel system isnt cabable for some reason of supplying enough for over 4000ish. O2 sensor picks up major leaning out and ECU makes sure its doesnt happen again...

Just a thought...

[mic*]

Money here is on the warm idle up valve underneath the throttle body. My guess is that when the car warms up the idle valve opens completely so at high RPM you end up leaning out the engine, hence the spluttering and stalling.

Would have thought this too mate, but i am thinking it should only affect idle. It is afterall just a bypass around the TB, and is still metered by MAP sensor.

[phrostbyte]

Cold start injector is only powered while your key is turned to start. It's power flows through the brown plugged temp sensor at the back of the head, if warm it has no continuance, if cold it allows power through to open the injector right up for the whole time you are cranking.

Turns out to be yet another simple problem... I wired my dizzy up wrong. For the record, anyone who has the plug chopped off their dizzy:

Blue wire to Black wire
Red wire to White wire
Whire wire to Red Wire

You can probably guess where I made the mistake

Thanks heaps for all the help anyway people, I'll be +rep'ing most of yas


Kev.

[DigitalPho3nix]

Awww man! I hate it when it's little things like this; just when it was getting interesting too!

I hope you enjoy teh 4age goodnesses.

[Scorpion]

Try checking all the earths around the ECU.
Especially E2 which I think is a brown wire on pin 9 of the middle connector.

[phrostbyte]

Try reading page 2

Hahah just kidding man, but yeah problem is solved

Kev.

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

You silly stooge head! Atleast you got it sorted eh. I'm suprised it ran to be honest!

Rep me!! *shakes fist*

[limbo]

:d :d :d :d