Reducing Lag - GA70

**EldarO** · 10-06-2007, 05:28 AM

Originally Posted by Kyosho

From memory, the old owner said he put it over the weigh bridge at 1700KG including driver and sound gear. So they are a heavy little unit.
And I also found the turbo setup a touch stupid if you ask me.
Twin turbos, on a 2L, only being fed by half the motor to each. I wouldn't have done it that way personally, but I'm guessing Toyota had a reason.

cant say i agree with that weight...

mines 1540 with a full tank o gas and sub + sound gear, spare tyre, basically, everything.

the GA70 is lighter, unless you got some big momma stereo in there, with a big fella behind the wheel, 200kgs extra is pushing it a bit...

Elmo.

**TheToyman75** · 10-06-2007, 11:12 AM

Kyosho,

Increased base timing deffinatly helps get them off the line, just keep a good ear on when you wind up the boost as they tend to ping up high once your around the 1 bar or boost mark. Then again you will probably feel the knock control retardingthe timing before you hear any pinging.

How much boost are you running at the moment ?

If you can bring it along to Dyno day on July 15th and then the weight watchers cruise on 28th July. That way you will see what sort of power it actually makes and get a good idea on what it weights.

**rollin** · 10-06-2007, 03:04 PM

I am an Internet Troll

**BLK1g-gte** · 10-06-2007, 07:51 PM

Ok since i been battling with the 1G and auto= LAG i think i've become bit of an expert on getting rid of the lag.
I have managed to get rid of ALL THE LAG in mien of the line using a converter, With out stalling you just have to accept that the lil ol 1G can never pull hard down low.

So best way of getting rid of Lag goes like this

1. Get higher diff gears. Mien is 4.56 stock
2. Get a stall converter (2800rpm) and a shift kit form MV automatics

Shift kit really make a difference (chirps all gears

) and is good for the life of the tranny cause there is less sliping=less friction beetween gear changes.
The stall converter works excellent and is a must if you want to launch decent. If you plan to race it maybe go to a 3000rpm stall
Get a tranny cooler if you do the above. Actually get a tranny cooler full stop. Heat kills Auto's

3. Get a SAFC or other fuel computer, made a huuuge difference down low/midrange as it doesnt drown and bog down from excess fuel. Plus economy get's 100% better when you cruze.
4. GET a EBC it really does bring the boost on faster... I have 10psi 2600rp full boost at 2800 and things start moving at 3000-3200rpm when i let go.. They also hold the boost up top.
This is all when i load up the converter....
5. You really do need the IC and some proper piping, 2.25 is the best compromise size wise.
6. Use the hand brake when stalling... This is a must. So stomp on the brake have the hand brake up at the same time. Load it up to about 2800 and it literally launches hard

...which is very unusual of the 1G, if you over stall the engine it will fry the tyres

7. You can advance the base timing to 12deg but careful what boost pressure you run with this base timing... This may help you for now

Now if you want to go further Get the dumps Rod (Toyman) is recommending, it's bound to bring the little turbos around quicker, If you want to go further still, get some adj. cam gears (Jamie - Forcefed) as you can make it spool faster by retarding the exhaust and get better midrange by playing around with the timing of both inlet and exaust... the final step is get some custom ground cams.
I don't have the results for the camshafts or cam gears yet but will soon and i let everyone know the difference.
Thats about it...The above made a big difference on my 1G...
It went from a slug that use to get eaten by shitty magnas

to eating ss comodores and keeping up with cars that are "spirited"
This is off the line as well not rolling starts.....hope this helps...

**Kyosho** · 12-06-2007, 07:10 PM

Originally Posted by BLK1g-gte

Ok since i been battling with the 1G and auto= LAG i think i've become bit of an expert on getting rid of the lag.
I have managed to get rid of ALL THE LAG in mien of the line using a converter, With out stalling you just have to accept that the lil ol 1G can never pull hard down low.

So best way of getting rid of Lag goes like this

1. Get higher diff gears. Mien is 4.56 stock
2. Get a stall converter (2800rpm) and a shift kit form MV automatics

Shift kit really make a difference (chirps all gears

) and is good for the life of the tranny cause there is less sliping=less friction beetween gear changes.
The stall converter works excellent and is a must if you want to launch decent. If you plan to race it maybe go to a 3000rpm stall
Get a tranny cooler if you do the above. Actually get a tranny cooler full stop. Heat kills Auto's

3. Get a SAFC or other fuel computer, made a huuuge difference down low/midrange as it doesnt drown and bog down from excess fuel. Plus economy get's 100% better when you cruze.
4. GET a EBC it really does bring the boost on faster... I have 10psi 2600rp full boost at 2800 and things start moving at 3000-3200rpm when i let go.. They also hold the boost up top.
This is all when i load up the converter....
5. You really do need the IC and some proper piping, 2.25 is the best compromise size wise.
6. Use the hand brake when stalling... This is a must. So stomp on the brake have the hand brake up at the same time. Load it up to about 2800 and it literally launches hard

...which is very unusual of the 1G, if you over stall the engine it will fry the tyres

7. You can advance the base timing to 12deg but careful what boost pressure you run with this base timing... This may help you for now

Now if you want to go further Get the dumps Rod (Toyman) is recommending, it's bound to bring the little turbos around quicker, If you want to go further still, get some adj. cam gears (Jamie - Forcefed) as you can make it spool faster by retarding the exhaust and get better midrange by playing around with the timing of both inlet and exaust... the final step is get some custom ground cams.
I don't have the results for the camshafts or cam gears yet but will soon and i let everyone know the difference.
Thats about it...The above made a big difference on my 1G...
It went from a slug that use to get eaten by shitty magnas

to eating ss comodores and keeping up with cars that are "spirited"
This is off the line as well not rolling starts.....hope this helps...

Thanks for that.

1: I'm ruling out diff gears, it does alot of freeway driving, and don't want it revving much harder along the freeway, nor do I want to go over the top with this.
2: So I should be aiming for a 2800RPM stally, time for me to go get prices (Was prepared to put one in)
Shift kit. I'll check out prices, and see if I want to spend so much. Tranny cooler, I most likely will, as I'm pretty hard on auto boxes.
3: SAFC styles, that'll be done as soon as some bits and pieces arrive at work.
4: Same as above
5: Looking around a bit to check out prices, and probably buy one in around 4 weeks time and plumb it all in.
6: I'll try this trick
7: Can't hurt to do

As for current pressure, it's still stock, looking to drop in a boost controller as soon as I get the car back (Mate had to borrow it, his car is off the road having some work done)
It's one of the turbotech ones, so eliminates a fair bit of boost creep.
Stock boost reads at 0.8Bar from memory on the boost guage. Sound right? (11-12 PSI)

As for the weight, as I said, it was what the last owner said, sounded extremely high to me, but we'll see, I'd love to put it on a weigh bridge.

As for dyno day/weight watchers.
Sounds like fun, might have to hit up the cruise section now.

Thanks heaps for the help guys

**TA-022** · 12-06-2007, 10:05 PM

watched my boost guage on the way home today.

0psi and building from 2800-3000rpm and my tacho is +1-200rpm compared to a digital 1 I
dialled it in with.

Edit: 1GGTE Gen 3 all standard / No BOV / JustJap Cooler / 2inch cooler pipes /
factory 11psi / 4.11 T Series Diff / W58 Supra Box.

**TheToyman75** · 13-06-2007, 08:26 AM

I tryed to watch my boost guage as it comes on boost the last few nights when traffic has allowed. 2nd gear is a no go zone until I get some new tyres. Boost seems to destroy all sence of traction far to quickly. 10psi seemed to be coming in around 2800rpm or there abouts but it changes lanes seconds after that and I'm far to old for fists full of opposite lock while looking at my boost controller for the digital rpm reading.

In 3rd the needle pushes past 10psi at around the 2650-2750 mark and of course in 4th its around 2500rpm. I am running slightly retarded base timing tho. I'll get atiming light on it soon to see what it is lol. I only remember its 2 deg less than it was ex japan/Darren's RA40

I still don't get full boost (1.2bar) till almost 4000rpm in 2nd, 3rd and 4th its slightly lower again of course.

**JustCallMeOrlando** · 13-06-2007, 08:48 AM

Hmm, that's not actually far off mine.

**Karma Supra** · 13-06-2007, 04:58 PM

Its a good point about reading it whilst giving it beans!!! These days the only time I have to drive anwhere is to and from work... and rushhour traffic sucks..... combine with too asleep on the way there and too tired to care about it when I come home...

Although I said things don't really start going until 4-4.5k I think I may be getting lower boost before then, - There is certainly noticeably more lag with my AVC-R set to "setting off" -I really need to set it up properly!