i too would be interested to know because 5 flushes later radiator is still coughing up bits of crap.
I'm after opinions (preferably educated) on the radiator flush products you buy at your favorite auto parts store. Generally you tip them into the radiator, run the engine for a while, then flush them out, hopefully leaving nice shiny internals. The major ingredients seem to be alkaline.
They sound suss to me, though I have no direct experience.
Also my situation is that I'm fitting a new, very clean, well maintained engine, and my existing radiator, piping, hoses, heater core etc are covered in rusty gunk. And so I thought I should probably try and attend to them.
Thanks
Hen
I need a working 4AGE bottom end. Pref smallport GZE, but all others considered. Also complete motors.
Drift Volvo. Was fun. 2JZ next time.
i too would be interested to know because 5 flushes later radiator is still coughing up bits of crap.
1984 MA61 - http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12340
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RObErT_RaTh - I think it's fair to say we all love the bush
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They do something but have nothing on getting your radiator rodded and cleaned properly at a radiator place.
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Or buy a custom alloy radiator off me for $500,will have a group buy up soon after sponsorship is finalised with the club
I would at the very least get it flushed professionally,70 or so bucks from memory.
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www.alloyradiators.com.au
in many cases you can just have the radiator cleaned.
but, if the top tank etc is brittle and shitty, they have to replace the tank while its off, because it cracks and dies when its removed.
which is a good idea anyway, if its that brittle, it should be replaced.
mind you, mine is fuggered, and 7 months later its still going strong.
i didnt want to pay $500 for a gad damn top tank, rather pay a bees dick more and get an ally rad.
Elmo.
Your better off forking out and having the radiator properly flushed.
if the tubes are so corroded that the pressure from flushing will blow them up then either its time for a new radiator or you could probably just go with the flush.
They work to a point and are much better than doing nothing. Best option is still to get radiator joint to take off the tanks and clean it properly. Downside of this is possibility of the core or a tank being u/s. (I got a quote today of $700 to supply the core for 1 of mine today and $300 per tank plus labour) so would check cost of a recore before you start.
Would also make sure you put a new waterpump on after you have flushed it if you go that route.
Regards
Greg
71 ta22 2tgeu,ke35 18rg, ke 35 3k auto,74 ta22 2tg,73 ta22 2t,80 ra40 18rgeu,92 kawasaki gtr1000,95 nj pajero, 2011 jeep patriot,2011 aricat jd495,1979 leyland motorhome (350chev),1995 Mitsubishi Delica
Too many cars so little time
we use them at work all the time,
better than nothing, and does free up grime and sluge better then just a flush with water
no need to replace the water pump after the flush either......
but if your RAD is blocked...a flush will do fook all for you....
blake
I was in teh same boat, totally fresh build engine, new water pump the lot... I decided to not rish it and got a new radiator instead...
Some kind of BMW
'97 Hilux Surf SSR-X LTD
..::VVTi 1UZ-FE::..
Hey Ben, i'm in prescicely the opposite position.
i have my engine, radiator and everything filled with nasty rusty gunk (leaking radiator means coolant is a waste of money and the environment) but i now have a new radiator to put in it.
WHat i'm going to do is get my engine flushes at a decent radiator shop, then get them to fit the new radiator - if i can find a decent enough one. the way proper shjops do it is running hot coolant/stripping chemicals/whatever through the engine at normal operation pressure, as opposed to hooking up a garden hose.
in your case, i would rpelace all the water plumbing (holden red motor heater hoses are pretty cheap, and you should be able to get rad hoses for not much) and just get the radiator flushed by a decent radiator place.
good luck with it all, and come to claytons place for a party on the 16th of this month.
Hi,
Pour a full 2ltre bottle of Coke into it. Run it for a week and flush it.
seeyuzz
river
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Thanks for the responses.
I'm not really too concerned about the radiator. That will hopefully be replaced soon anyway (it's 9/10ths rooted), I was more hoping to improve some of the other piping and water bits.
So no horror stories of dissolving heads or eating rubber hoses?
Hen
I need a working 4AGE bottom end. Pref smallport GZE, but all others considered. Also complete motors.
Drift Volvo. Was fun. 2JZ next time.
Pour a full 2ltre bottle of Coke into it. Run it for a week and flush it.
Would there be any engine left after that???
hm..
just while we're on the same thread..
would you flush the engine this way?
1. unplug hoses..
2. remove thermostat
3. with a hose, push water into bottom (or was it top) hose... whichever way the water flows... then all the gunk will come out the other hose..
4. when water's clean, turn off hose, turn off motor
5. replace new thermostat, replace hoses, new coolant etc etc
Research has shown child in front seat causes accidents, accident in back seat causes child
If the rad is fooked anyway, why not change it now? Compared to a new engine its a minor cost..
Some kind of BMW
'97 Hilux Surf SSR-X LTD
..::VVTi 1UZ-FE::..
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