1JZ ECU capacitor replacement info

[cptsideways]

Ho do you get the soldered screws out anyone? my soldering iron won't touch them as they obviously heat sink into the ally frame.

[TERRA Operative]

Soldered screws? I don't remember ever needing to undo any soldered screws?

[Makina]

two of the ECU's were dead, fire but no idle, flagged a code 14 for ignition. Work fine after cap replacement.

On one if you leave the car off for 5 mins, it would start and idle for 30sec and then die cleanly with a code 14, if you try to restart straight away it wouldn't fire at all.

Same thing happened with my 1jzgte engine.. Thanks to this thread (however old it is..) I was able to finally identify what needs to be fixed! Inspected my ecu and sure enough, 3 caps were leaking badly with some nasty stains on the pcb; upon closer inspection, the other 3 remaining caps were also leaking slightly.. After changing the caps, (same capacitance values, upgraded voltage), the engine fired up right away!!!

[skin]

Lets say I was silly enough to de solder my caps without taking note of which way they went in lol
How do I work it out and how do I know which side is which of the new caps

[TERRA Operative]

If you can give me the part number on the ECU, I'll match it up with my notes.
If you look closely where the caps go, you will see a small mark like a minus sign in a circle or similar next to one of the two holes for each cap, this is where the negative leg of the cap goes.

[skin]

Sweet ok that's lrob all I need to know provided the net is marked on the cap

I know where the 15 one goes and where the 33 one goes from the pic the first guy posted up on page 1

Whats the easiest way to wire the 10 and 4.7 in parallel? Push both leads through hole or solder one to the other then push one cap through?

Cheers

Thanks heaps man

[TERRA Operative]

You can buy 15uF caps from Farnell/Element14 or RS Components. If you want to get your hands on a set of top quality, top of the range caps for cheap, PM me with the info from the ECU, a list of the required caps and your address. I keep a stock of caps here, so I can save you the cost of buying in multiples of five as RS and Farnell/Element14 require..

The ones I keep are *far* better than the cheap rubbish you get from Jaycar/Dick Smith etc.

[JAE Racing]

You can buy 15uF caps from Farnell/Element14 or RS Components. If you want to get your hands on a set of top quality, top of the range caps for cheap, PM me with the info from the ECU, a list of the required caps and your address. I keep a stock of caps here, so I can save you the cost of buying in multiples of five as RS and Farnell/Element14 require..

The ones I keep are *far* better than the cheap rubbish you get from Jaycar/Dick Smith etc.

PM sent..
Cheers

[Makina]

Anybody here who have tried swapping the fried electrolytic caps with tantalum ones? I know a guy who repairs ecu's and replaces the electrolytic caps with tantalums and he said that the ecu's with tantalums are far more reliable.. Any thoughts?

[JZA70R_92]

guys got a wierd one

1JZGTE ecu caps repalced 1 year ago running fine until sunday night high idle and very rich, rev limit at 4500rpm(backfires like crazy). swapped in a mates ecu and car works fine pointing to a dogey ecu. installed new caps just in case no change

I replaced the 3 injector driver transistors from a 7mGe ecu different part no same specs. car started but was missing at idle i also replaced one of green resistor box thingys as it got slighty melted form soldering iron plus I had to fix a track underneath it. car now starts but its back to the same shit high idle and rev limit at 4500rpm. what could cause this? ive ordered the correct NEC d2162 transisitors!

[Flex]

Have you check for dry solder joins? Sounds like the afm or map input is reading to high

[George]

Makina in theory, the only reason not to put tantalum caps everywhere is their high cost (relatively to that of Al parts). In all other aspects their performance is better.

p/s how do you guys desolder the caps? I tried to practice on stuffed 1UZ ECU and could hardly pull out just one, with my soldering station power set almost at the maximum.

[Flex]

Tantalum caps are better, however it depends on what part of the circuit. If they are located in a circuit which sees high voltage ripple they are not ideal e.g. battery supply as they don't handle over voltage very well. Also there failure mode is short.

In regards to removing them, make sure you add solder before you try to remove them. The old solder won't transfer heat very well. Also have you tried using a solder sucker.

[George]

Flex thanks for noting the failure mode. So in the best scenario they would just blow up and in the worst case they would burn some track and other components around.

I did try adding some solder and soldering liquid to make the on-board solder melt better, but I didn't use a sucker. I had a strong feeling the board has too large inner copper polygons that dissipate soldering iron's heat, don't letting all the solder melt.

[Flex]

What type of iron you using? A good iron should be able to remove them.