4A-FE - What's worth doing?

[Poggy]

1) c50's have different ratios to the c52, whack a c50 on a 20v and the results will be
rubbish.

2) 20v Silvertop packages go for around $700 bare engine or $1200 for engine gearbox and loom and ECU.

So for $1200 you now have a nice 20v silvertop sitting on a pallet in your garage, now you have to

* Strip the motor out, Change over the looms etc, if you can do this yourself it wont cost, but then you have to:-

Sort out the exhaust
Sort out the gearbox and cv's "most engine packages only come with half the shaft"
Sort out all your high tension lead, igniter etc, map sensors " most of theses engine packages dont come with the sensors you need"
Put all oils in it.
the list goes on, i'm not even scraping the surface.

I wouldnt even start it unless i had 2k in my wallet

also 4afe's have been modified with good results

[Jorrs]

i dunno i think i was pretty close,
headers 250.
on my discount
shocks 400.
springs 300

install it all myself

[blacktop]

the 20V would be the ideal choice, but not for 1K. like i said get the thing handling and stopping before you get it to go faster than the stopper and shockers can handle.

After a bit more thought i wouldn't even spend the money on the 4AFE, just cos there pretty bloody reliable and the money would be better spent on handling.

20V would be cool and if you want to go this rout just save more money, but remember you cant stop to well at 180kmh with stock brakes.

at the end of the day do what you want but take into consideration the safety side of things.

[Jorrs]

shouldnt be doing 180 anyways..
it all depends what you want from the car, if i was looking for a reliable daily id stick with the 4afe, do the suspension, shocks, springs, rear swaybar, then perhaps look at the brakes and do a rear disc conversion from an SX rolla, then maybe get some DBA slotted Rotors for the fronts like what has been done on mine.
drive the 4afe into the ground, then chuck a 7AFE or 20valve into it !
will give you time to save for either a better car or for the better conversion.

[Vios-GT_07]

i dunno i think i was pretty close,
headers 250.
on my discount
shocks 400.
springs 300

install it all myself

i'll give you 250 bucks for headers for a smallport 4A-GE... 4-2-1 ?

[Jorrs]

oh no i was reffering to the shocks/springs
not sure where the Headers came from, believe a dealer organised it for the car before my brother grabbed it.
have you been to an Exhaust shop ? i got quoted 300/350 for bigport headers, but was told the headers already flow pretty well stock, sure about smallports.

[Jorrs]

double post trolls !

[Vios-GT_07]

yea it flows alright..

billzilla reckons if chasing over 200hp, the headers should be changed

i didn't notice much gain from another smallport that had headers and a full exhaust system... not really worth for the money the guy paid i'd say..

[Jorrs]

i didnt notice much difference with a bigport and a exhaust system either,
4A headers in general must be quite alright from the factory.

[Poggy]

they are pretty good, but you can get slight gains with aftermarket ones, thats why the ae112 7afes came out with extractor style headers, made from mandrel stainless instead of the cast steel i nthe ae102 7afes

[Vios-GT_07]

i just did a CAI on the smallport and it made such a big difference.. it got louder a little, but man it's gotten so responsive, and uses a lot less fuel as well now..

i'd believe the 4A-FE would respond similarly.. extractors on these engines aren't really worth it unless u're chasing high high horses

[oldeskewltoy]

Web cams in the USA will build up (hardweld) and grind a set of 4AF cams for you. Price in the USA is about $500.00 The Web cams I'd recommend are a mild boost, providing a 214 duration @ .050 lift with a lift of 8.18mm - stock 4AG cams are 204 degrees and 7.56mm lift... not sure what the specs are for 4AF cams. Your biggest problem would be getting a pair of 4AF cams to them(or spending another $200 for a core set) so they can rebuild them. I wouldn't use a more radical cam(although you can get any of their different grinds built on to 4AF sticks... My reasoning for not going wild....basically because there is no independently adjustable timing gears so cams can't get excessively wild since you can't tune them....

http://www.webcamshafts.com/pages/toyota-auto.html#6

[CILAchainsaw]

Thanks for all the advice guys. See my latest post in the Member's Rides section to find out what I ended up deciding on...

[Sam_Q]

Being non-interferance you don't have to change the timing belt but it is worth doing when the engine is out as they can be a pain once it's fitted. Same with the water pump.

That said I'd rather save up the extra and even spend $2000+ doing a 20v conversion than spend a penny on a 4AFE - there isnt enough turd polish in this world to make anything substantial come of that engine.

only the silvertop, the blacktop will hit the vlaves. Also it depends on which 4afe he has early or late, if it's a later one you can get heaps out of it.

[CILAchainsaw]

only the silvertop, the blacktop will hit the vlaves. Also it depends on which 4afe he has early or late, if it's a later one you can get heaps out of it.

It's the latest 4AFE, so they are pretty torquey to begin with. A low boost turbo setup will help that get even better

And Starfire, you need to talk to Bilzilla if you have any doubts as to the potential of these engines. Yes, they aren't exactly a race-bred motor, but they have their advantages, even over the 4AGE, and especially when you go all the way with them...