Ok going by the TSRM there is a plate there, will it prevent me from installing the new wheel stud?
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...tion=RA&Page=6
OK I've do a quick search and I'm about to hit it again hard but in the mean time can some one tell me how to replace the wheel stud on the rear of an A70 Supra?? I got new rims last night and installed then on the spot with the help of a mate. Today I went around to check that the nuts were tight after I noticed one wasn't exactly tight and one of the rear studs sheered off!!
I have a front hub tho I cant get the stud past the dust sheild (I'm VERY prepared to cut the shit out of it to get to that stud. I just hit it with a hammer to knock it out) but if I do hammer the rear stud (after I cut the other free) out can I just pull it out or will there be a plate(holding the dust shield) on the rear stoping me from pulling the stub the whole way out on that rear hub as well??
Also Does it need to be pressed in or if I thread it through and put the wheel back on and tighten it, will that be ok?? they dont seam to have any notches on the back of the stud so I'm worried that it wont tighten and might just spin in the hub...
HELP!!!
I need my baby back on road ASAP.
Cheers
Leigh
Last edited by ReQuieM; 05-05-2007 at 10:04 PM. Reason: Renmoved my mobile number...
Ok going by the TSRM there is a plate there, will it prevent me from installing the new wheel stud?
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...tion=RA&Page=6
Mate the dust sheilds (front and rear) should be removable normaly on most cars they are held on with a few small bolts,
you can just push the stud through line up the splines and it should push in, a few taps with a soft face mallet will knock it in then your set
put a nut on the stud before belting it out so you dont munch it
idealy you would remove the rear hub but need access to a decent rattle gun or big braker bar
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...tion=RA&Page=7
yeah the dusr sheilds are removable from the look of it but the plate that the sheild bolts up to is whats stoping me from removing the stud from the front. The real *looks* to be the same.
Can some one else decipher that link above? It kinda looks like if I disconnect the rear axel from the diff it should slid the hud minus shiel and plate out??? I donno I'm just pissed off and stressing now
Ok no I'm wrong.
Cool got a stud from my spare front hub, I just cut the thin plate holding the dust shield, and I can see that the bolt is actual notch like a suspension strut bold. Cool. SO does any one know if I can install it with out pulling the hub apart??
I'm gonn just go have a dip if anyone has any help post it up!!
Cheers guys!
Yes you can, although a rattle gun can be quite helpful. Do you live near my way? If you drop by tomorrow arvo, I might be able to help you for a couple of minutes.
Wicked. Worked it out. Tho I did every thing the hard way.
I was mistaking the hand brake, in the TSRM diagrams, for the plate that held the dust sheild in place I took a couple of pic so I chuck em up later, just in case any one else does the same thing...
One last thing, how tight should I put the brake caliper bolts back on? I don't have a torque wrench handy, so should I just do it 'fkn hard' - 'Hard + a 1/4 turn' - 'tight then a bit'?
Oh and thanx to every ones help!
If you don't have a torque wrench handy, I tend to get a breaker bar, nothing big probably 40cm, and do it up as tight as possible, unless you're a big bloke you can't shear them, you don't want them coming loose ;-)
Toyota has created one of the world's most desirable sportscars... Supra
just do them with a 1/2 rachet and do them tight dont strech teh bolts just do them until they are hard in,
i only do ones on race cars with a longish 3/8 rachet and dont do them super tight and never had one fall out and the heat cycles and viabration from one of them is probly worse than any street car
Hmmm... I think I fucked something up... I've got some intermitant grate/flick noise; slow at low speeds then faster as I accelerate. I'm thinking I fkd one of the clearance on the hand brake.
Ok heres the excuses... It was late I was pissed off and tired and I'd had a few beers... basicaly I left the hand brake on.... I thought the disc was being held on by some crusted up crap around the centre bore and I had run out of degreaser earlier that day. SO I forced the disc off by using a similar system the harmonic balancer puller. screwing bolts through the two holes. Anyway I realised what I'd done after I'd done it... One of the spring 'tensioners' poped off but the rest seemed ok so I just reinstalled the spring and continued on.
I wont get a chance to pull it off and have a look till maybe wednesday, but I wont be driving it till then either so I'm not TOO stressed. BUT do you think its just the clearances of the hand brake? Could I have royaly screwed something or will I be able to nudge i around and fix her up?
As usual any help will be awesome.
Cheers
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ion=BR&Page=45
Yeah I didn't make a marking to show which way the rotor cam off. Is it possible that installing the rotor back in differently to how it was, is causing the noise? Slightly warped or something...
Or will i need to just rebed the parking brake?
The grate noise isn't just the backing plate behind the rotor being bent and rubbing on the rotor itself? I've had this happen a few times before. I don't think it will matter too much if the rotor is not put back on in the same position it came from.
Toyota has created one of the world's most desirable sportscars... Supra
after removing the rear hand brake you will need to readjust it, the way i do it is wind it out tight on the disc then back it off a few turns until the wheel spins freely, pull the hand brake and it should lock on, I don't see how you not marking the exact location of the dics and installing it could be causing any scraping
89' MR2 AW11... His
00' MR2 ZZW30... Hers
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