For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[twentyEight]

Unusual for an older motor to be installed in a newer car, and I am pretty sure it wont pass an emissions test unless a lot of EFI work is done, but cool none the less... just dont tell the EPA

Wouldn't it have to have passed an emissions test for the Engineers Certificate?

AE86 with a 18GREU swap installed and engineered.

[RAd28]

i was under the impression that engines could not be swapped into cars newer then them... full stop, regardless of emissions compliance or not


in Queensland atleast... might be different for you mexicans

[matttai]

edit:read post wrong

[The Witzl]

yeah 18RGEU would be legal in an AE86....

nice combo... i like it.

[roadkill]

Hi,

Not too sure on the limitations of putting an older engine into the car as i have seen plenty of hilux's in particular with older 253 and 308 v8s put in as well as '84 and '86 r series hilux with 18rg's before too - they might be a bit different as it is still an r series engine.

bEn

[o_man_ra23]

The car must comply with the emissions standards for either the vehicle or the motor, whichever is the stricter. Engineers wont always request an emissions test, if they have reason to believe the engine will pass the test (ie factory ECU, all original engine emmissions equipment still hooked up), then they can pass it without the test.

Mattai, what you need is a circuit opening relay. This can also be done with two relay's NO contacts in parallel, one relay being powered from the AFM's open switch, and the other from the starter circuit.

[matttai]

ah done reading this thread from beginning to end though most of it has gone over my head really.
i am quite happy that i have this engine! i listened to the sound bites of witzl's engine and i must say i am quite happy with the sound my engine makes. it is very similar. when you rev it up it totally hammers!

o_man_ra23: thanks for that though i am not very familiar with electronics. I will try get someone to make sense of it lol

[timbosaurus]

o_man_ra23: thanks for that though i am not very familiar with electronics. I will try get someone to make sense of it lol

Hey Mate,

Owen mentioned an "NO" contact on a relay. In case you were wondering, that stands for "normally open"... i'll try and explain briefly

A relay *usually* has 5 pins. Trying to simplify it, 2 are the low-power inputs which switch the relay on and off. In your case you will need to wire one of these pins to ground, and the other to your signal, either AFM or crank signal.

The other 3 make up the high-power output used to control stuff. One of them is the power input (you'll wire it through a fuse to the battery or other good 12v source), while the other two are power out. One of these is "normally open" (ie: off when your input is off - on when your input is on), the other is "normally closed" (ie: on when your input is off - off when ur input is on).

I'm sure google explains what the common pin numbers are 87a, 47 etc, so just search for that

Timbo

[o_man_ra23]

Pretty much as Timbo said. The low power input will be A1 and A2 pins, A2 goes to ground, A1 goes to your 12V signal. You can see the schematic for a circuit opening relay in any haynes manual for a Toyota engine. Alternatively, aftermarket computers usually have outputs for fuel pump relays, then you just need a standard relay with a NO output, no need for a circuit opening relay.

Something that Timbo said which I would like to emphasise is that YOU SHOULD FUSE ANY WIRE YOU ADD TO THE BATTERY CIRCUIT... if you add a wire on the 12V of anything... and are unsure that its fused or not already, fuse it. It doesnt hurt to have 2 fuses in a row. The fuse should be as close to the battery as possible, as it protects the wire from heating up and causing fires... FUSES DONT PROTECT EQUIPMENT, THEY PROTECT WIRES.

Also Matttai you said your not familiar with electronics. I think you meant your not familiar with electrics... theres a difference. I highly doubt you will ever come across the need to touch electronics, but electrics (12V car stuff anyway... dont touch 240V house stuff) you will more than likely play with. They are pretty simple, if you think about the logic for most of it on how the 12V can get from the battery to the operating device, you can generally do things like find faulty wires, faulty connections, add items on a relay, remove redundant items etc etc. Some of the basic fault finding can save you a packet in auto sparky fees... while still not touching the more complex items.

[matttai]

In terms of aftermarket computer my brother has a spare e-manage blue. Would this be ok to work on my car?

[Omegaman]

I would think that the e-manage is a piggy back computer.
Basically it changes the parameters of the standard computer ie. Ignition and fuel.
Could be wrong, more info would help.

[The Witzl]

omegaman is right.

If you want cheap aftermarket ECU - build a Megasquirt-2. My 18R-GE is run off one, and I would be happy to share my tuning files and stuff.

[matttai]

well the thing is the e-manage blue i already have it, also with harness.
it is a piggyback computer.
http://www.importscene.com.au/prod663.htm


how much does a megasquirt cost?
i am not chasing after power. i just want to build a reliable and strong motor.

i am guessing i would need a comp either way to control the fuel pump?
the car currently drowns itself in fuel if it idles on the spot for too long and shuts off having to be restarted again.

would the e-manage be sufficient to do this or do i need the megasquirt?

[o_man_ra23]

Karl, who is the aus distributor for Megasquirt, Im thinking of using one for my 18R-CTE project

Matttai, they seem to be about $250 US in kit form, more if somebody else puts it together for you. If you can use a soldering iron decently, then just get the kit. So probably about $500 by the time you get the ECU, the programming cable, and a few other bits and bobs. Also they have an on-board MAP sensor, so you can completely remove the AFM, but you will need to get an oxy sensor (cheap) and weld a mounting lug into your exhaust.

Cheers, Owen

[timbosaurus]

My Megasquirt V2 kit cost $330 including delivery (might be cheaper now with the exchange rate), and took about a week to get here. I'm in the process of putting it together now. Pretty comprehensive kit that includes case and connectors and everything.

I didn't get the stimulator, mainly cos I like making things difficult for me and I have a fair bit of embedded systems experience.

I wouldn't recommend it to a newbie looking for a cheap option. It won't save you *much* in the long run compared to, say, a Wolf 3D, and certainly wont be quicker to get running.

It is, however, a hell of a good learning experience, and you will certainly know how ur EFI system works after messing around fixing ur stuff-ups and reading the forums for 6 months

O2 sensors can be found in any recent commodore (or many other cars) at wreckers, or bought new for under $100 and the bungs to fit are under $10.