For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[RAd28]

I'm sure the fuel lines will handle the stock 18RGEU, i've kept stock fuel lines feeding my 1GGTE no probs, VL pumps (bosch 044) are cheap and cheerful, high press pushing pump, sure they could lift fuel too, but i dare say they'd prefer to be fed with a lift pump through a surge tank.

as for o2 sensor, best left for someone else to answer.

[o_man_ra23]

VL pumps DONT lift. VLs have an in-tank low pressure high volume pump to do that job. 3 options:
1) put in a lift pump
2) mount the pump below the tank and install a 1/2" feed from the bottom of the tank
3) get an in-tank pump

As for the O2 sensor, you will need to find out what the voltage/current output range is to meet your requirements (if there are different types, they may all give the same outputs), then I would suggest looking at something like an ED foulcan item... they are common as dogs nuts, and relatively cheap to purchase new... plus they are nice and small. DONT get the EA foulcan style ones, they dont last as good as the later model items... they had an issue with them.

A similar year commonwhore sensor would also be likely to work.

Anyone got a part number for 16R rods so I can check these ones in my donk when I pull the sump off??

Cheers, Owen

[airfireman1]

Thanks for the answers people, I have a intank electric pump from an american RA28, that would probably do to lift the fuel but I will have to modify the tank to fit it, no great problems, so I am off to the wreckers tomorrow to have a look at fuelpumps and see what will come close as I would prefer an intank efi pump. I will also check out oxy sensors I wll see what is required as I have a book on EFI and it lists all the different toyota and other makes.
Cheers

[Casino Kid]

I went to a place called A1 Hi Performance in McCoy st, Myaree To get a elec fuel pump for my Crown and I found them very helpful when i told them wat i was doing, they showed me many diffrent options on how I could set it up

[airfireman1]

Thanks , Myaree is a liitle fa raway for me, I will try NOR. Yours is easy, when you are just going to feed those 2x 40dcoe webers.
Cheers

[Casino Kid]

yeah I know mine is easy compard to yours but I was just so shocked when a shop shows intrest in a project other than a holden or ford. normaly when i go in somwhere and they find out wat the car is they just say " cant help ya mate' without even tryin

[RAd28]

after being embarresingly point out by a girl () that i posted in the wrong thread... heres my question/story:


Just wanted to take one second to brag...

I've just been informed that my bottom end is an early 18R-G block, which might explain why i have that weird arse valve thing on the side of the block, and why she goes so hard... 'cause on top of the bottom end, is an 88253 head...

but this leaves me in a pickle... the engine i've started building is an 18R-GR as far as i know, which means obviously lower compression (but i can't seem to confirm if it's 9.2:1 or 8.7:1 going to have to take measurements). what would be the smarter option, a) modify the GR block balance the bottom end, and increase compression, aiming for 10.5:1ish, or modify the G block, doing the same work, still aiming for 10.5:1 compression...

does anyone know of other differences between blocks? such as oil supply?

cheers

[Omegaman]

Either way you would be changing pistons to get to 10.5.1 comp right?
I think the gu block have a better high flowing oil pump. Maybe baffles in the sump?

Thats what I can think of.

[Steve M]

I think the gu block have a better high flowing oil pump.

I've never heard that before, I thought they were all the same for 18R-G series.
That's something that you might want to check during your rebuild. Look for the spacer between the pump body halves.

The baffling was different from corona to celica sumps because they had a different lower pump body and I think a different sump too.

If you've got one of those blocks with the casting lump on the passenger side towards the rear, can you see if it would line up with a main bearing journal?

[RAd28]

as far as i know, neither block is GU, the one in the car is just 18R-G, and the one in the garage is 18R-GR... won't be changing pistons if i can help it... just shaving the head/block and recess the pistons if i need it... at this stage i'm just playing with ideas, have started work on the head, but haven't begun on any of the meaty bottom end stuff...

i'm thinking might be wiser to work on the GR since it's already out of the car, will save me swapping engines and heads and what not, just build one whole engine... then swap it in... if i work on the 18R-G bottom end i have to have a replacement engine ready so i don't keep the car off the road. would be too much stuffing around me thinks...
AND
once i'm done, i have 1 engine that's gonna be pretty hot, and a high compression 18R-G spare, which will sell easily enough if i want to...

will be baffeling the sump myself

[RAd28]

If you've got one of those blocks with the casting lump on the passenger side towards the rear, can you see if it would line up with a main bearing journal?

how am i going to do that with the engine in the car?

[Gunna]

How are you baffeling your sump?

[Omegaman]

Everything sounds hot so far. Just the decking of the block is a worry. There's not much you can take off on these engines so be careful.

[o_man_ra23]

You will need to take into account the difference in distance from the lower cog to the cam cogs with the chain tensioner. I milled 1mm off a head and didnt have a worry with it though (adjusted cams to suit)

Cheers, Owen

[RAd28]

Owen, yeah, that is a good point, and i plan on re-drilling the cam gears to suit... go lazy way with a 10 point adjustable setup...

omegaman - i haven't done much looking into decking the block, looks like there's plenty of meat there when i last looked, but i wasn't paying too much attention... what should i be looking out for?

Gunna - planning on getting some 3" exhaust pipe and making a kinda surge tank around the oil pickup, but i gotta work out the flowrate of the pickup so i leave just enough flow through the walls of the pipe to allow the pickup un obstructed flow, but to stop the oil draining out too fast... may end up just putting a plate running front to back with some small holes to seperate oil left/right...