For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[Slidin23]

ok thanks
looks like i will be getting a speed flow fitting tigged into it. to then run a hose along with the top one to a catch can

those coil packs posted above look very simlar to sirion 3 cylinder ones i found out at you pull it. only thing is the sit about 15mm to high. even after running a smaller plug..
oman what plugs are you using?

[o_man_ra23]

I'm running Mitsubishi 4G63 fitment plugs. The coil packs sit high, but I made a plate that runs across the valve cover to bolt them to.

[Slidin23]

do you have a pic of your coil packs in the engine?

im going to be looking at starting on this and getting things moving.

getting my modded ke70 crossmember back this week so should be able to start making up engine mounts and cutting up the sump. going to mount the engine as far back and possibly only a few mm away from the firewall. the 18rg has a big distance from the firewall i noticed. hopefully will gain some handling advantages with mounting it back so far!

also looking at running a poly semi solid engine mount. anyone run these? had a gear box mount simlar to it in my 180sx years ago. was rough but kept the engine in place..

[o_man_ra23]

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/thr...unning!/page11

5th last post.

[Slidin23]

blocking off the heater pipes from the water pump? has anyone done it? caused any issues...? im not going to be running a heater on mine at all so waas going to block off the rear pipe at the back of the head and the one on the water pump. also the one on the thermostat housing. just to neaten it all up.

[o_man_ra23]

The one on the thermostat housing is the radiator bypass. This is needed to stop cavitation of the pump when the engine is cold and the thermostat is closed. Don't block this.

[Commotion]

I posted this in my build thread also but fired up my 18rg the other night for the first time. Was sick of the slow progress of the build and lack of motivation so I thought getting the motor to fire would motivate me. Motor is an 18rgeu which somebody had bolted a pair of stromberg carbies onto to make it "twin carb". The previous owner bought a 28 with the motor fitted. Drove it home, started removing paint and decided there was too much rust so it sat there for over 10 years before I bought the motor off him. I got some carbies off pagie and bolted them up. I connected up the couple of wires required to get it started, redone the ignition timing and then the thing fired straight up. The valves are a little sticky as it pops and farts a bit but I reckon with they should free up once I connect up cooling system and allow it to run longer than 2 seconds. I have 9.7 Pistons and 250 cams I plan on putting in it in the future but having a running motor is pretty satisfying. I'm building stainless trd style headers for it now so I can connect up an exhaust from one of my shells.

[Gunna]

Hey guys,

Looking for some help on fuel pressure regulators on my 18RG with 45mm webers. I have an electric fuel pump already which is a step forward from the mechanical pump. I was wondering if anyone uses a regulator with an electric fuel pump or if that isn't good for the electric fuel pump?

From what i can find webers like 4psi. I was given a fuel pressure reg so I'm wondering if its worth fitting it?

Any help appreciated

[SilverRA23]

Hey guys,

Looking for some help on fuel pressure regulators on my 18RG with 45mm webers. I have an electric fuel pump already which is a step forward from the mechanical pump. I was wondering if anyone uses a regulator with an electric fuel pump or if that isn't good for the electric fuel pump?

From what i can find webers like 4psi. I was given a fuel pressure reg so I'm wondering if its worth fitting it?

Any help appreciated

What pressure does your fuel pump run at? Some are designed to run with webers and are low pressure. If yours is pumping anything more than the recommended 4psi, definitely run a regulator. All carbys don't like big fuel pressures.

[GT1978]

Okay guys had some miss fortune and blew my head gasket between 3 & 4. I need some suggestions for a good head gasket to meet my requirements. My requirements being I don't want to o-ring the block and I have 92mm overbore. I was running a standard type headgasket made to suit the overbore which may have survived if I hadn't run it so long out of tune. This time I'm looking for something better like a multi layer job. Can anyone point me in the right direction. Also did anyone ever find a direct fit head stud that doesn't require milling the head posts down? I'd feel more comfortable having studs.

[SilverRA23]

I have used a Cometic gasket suited to the 92mm bore, but I suspect that is what you already have?

[Wil8115]

Cometic still makes a 92mm bore composite gasket i do believe.

if you want to MSL you'll need to machine the block and head to surface better then 15ra..

AFAIK the mitsu head studs on milling the bolt posts are the most affordable way still.. custom bolts are
cubic dollars.

[GT1978]

First one I used was an ACL gasket but then they stopped making them but one of the guys that worked there took the template when he went out on his own and made me the current one. They were just a standard looking head gasket made to the over bore template. I'll Google the cometic option and see if that boosts my confidence. I'd rather not machine the block if I can avoid it. The head may need a cleanup as a minimum though to make sure it's still flat.

[Omegaman]

check out this guy.

http://toyheadauto.com/PerformancePages/18RG_Parts.html

not that cheap, but there metal head gaskets....scroll down past other goodies..

[GT1978]

Cometic had the gasket off the shelf. Ordered early Friday arrived today. Pretty stoked with service. Next question. Cometic CFM-20 Gasket. To copper coat or not? ny of you guys that have used them used a copper gasket spray on them or just fitted dry?