For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[ra_28]

http://ttvracing.com/?s=18rg#prettyPhoto[iframes]/0/

Haven't seen these before blood light at 3.3kg! Would be a pain in traffic. Mines bad enough at 4kg.

[Omegaman]

Nice clutch. would be a shame to leave it hidden in a box...

[o_man_ra23]

In short... no. Resistors flow either direction. And current never flows from + to - as current is defined as the flow of electrons, which are negatively charged particles, so they always are abundant at the most negative terminal, and deficient at the most positive terminal. Thus, they flow from areas of high population - which is the negative terminal... to areas of low population - which is the positive terminal.

Clear as mud?

But doesn't the resistors at least have a current flow from + to negative. hence why i asked which side is which, by sight.
the resister i used above had 5 colours, so i couldnt tell which side was which.
i will make another booster tonight, this time taking a good look and checking with multimeter that all is well as i go.

cheers


the diode i do understand now. i'm started reading Witzl's link- http://www.autoshop101.com/ and learning heaps.

[Omegaman]

Clear as mud?[/QUOTE]

yes...
thank you.

[andrewzuku]

I've created a wiki to organised information I learned from this very tractor thread:
http://1stgencelica.wiki/18R-G_Engine

I'd love some help, or just some constructive criticism.

It's open to be edited by anyone. However, to discourage vandalism and spam, I've restricted editing privileges to users who creates an account with a verified email address.

[Omegaman]

Well i bit the bullet and bought a Haltech platinum sprint 500. $700 with loom was just to good to refuse.
Im ditching the E6K ive been trying to sort out.
I've just updated to the latest firmware and Software. Now to contact Haltech or any one who has a 18RGEU Base map for it.
I know haltech wont have a map, so i'll try a 4AGE base map from them. But if anyone has one for GEU and can help, let me know.

But some features i really need to know for the ra28.
- Tacho, what voltage used, 5v,8v,12v? is there a trick to wiring the standard tacho wire and also the tacho wire from an EMS ignitor, will i still need a booster for the std tacho?

Also what duty cycle and pulse per cycle. I'm guessing 50% and 4 for this.
- Trigger, what trigger type to use? (std full cycle) when using Hall effect S3?, i see no other option for hall effect. Home signal is from locked dizzy.

I have 4 sets of Injectors, one being 460cc top feed low Imp injectors, but the 500 only uses High Imp injectors.
Is it worth buying the haltech resistor box or just get top Feed High injectors. What type CC's and off what car do u recommend? They need to be single pintle.

edit. When looking at the Haltech resistor box online. it looks the same as the 18rgeu std resistor box. Am i able to wire this into the PS500.
I'm guessing yes, looking at the wiring. I guess all i need to check is the OHMs out are correct, at around 6ohms...true???

Initial Wiring is done. my RPM is bouncing around, due to the set up im guessing.
This is so much easier the E6K,

Also, i did figure out why i had no RPM on the E6K, as i was removing it to fit the 500 i found the trigger problem..
now the e6k is for sale.
Any tips, please let me know. its gonna take days reading up on the software features anyways.

[Slidin23]

i have a few questions that im looking to get answered about my 18rg

i have a rebuild 18rg in my ra23 celica. its running 20r pistons balanced light flywheel and mild ported head with stock cams double valve springs. made 81kw stock twin carbs and extractors with a 2 1/4 exhaust.

im now pulling the car apart suspension wise and pulling the motor out.
i am going to put ke70 r&p and x member in the car. currently running a front sump on the engine. which i plan to mod to wing baffel and to get the motor to sit back further in the car.
has anyone done this? i have the early type engine with the engine mounts as far forward and no prvision in the block to mount them in a different location. i will be wending the r series mounts to the crossmember anyway so mounting it far back is what i want.. i am running a w55 box so will be making a custom gear box crossmember anyway. also going 1 piece custom tail shaft so that wont be an issue. once again anyone done this? have pics? ideas comments?

the goal for the car at this stage is a fun rarely streetable car that i can thrash in the hills and take to the track and have fun (weekend retromod type build) while keeping factor jdm look

the issues i have encountered in the past have been it throwing belts at high rpm. i was thinking of solving this by changing to late model nissan type pulleys and belt. has anyone done this? pics?

also because im sitting the motor back further the carbys are going to hit on the brake booster. im also not really interested in carbys. i would like to run a custom quad throttle set up. i see efi performance have a bolt on kit to replace the carbys but it looks just as bulky as the carbs. i would like to make a custom set up using their gear and a custom manifold tilted up on an angle if possible. once again im after pics? or advise on if anyone has done this

another thing i would like to change if possible is if im running an ecu to control the fuel it would have provisions to control spark/ignition possibly.. i currently have a late model electronic system with a fireball ignition system. it works well but is to bulky and would like to simplify with possibility running coil packs? has anyone done this? what fits what works and recommendations on an ecu.

finally im looking to get a cam grind done while im doing all this work done on the motor. and possibly some adjustable cam gears. as im looking at running efi i assume i could run something a lot more aggressive? as mentioned earlier the car will be driven hard so a streetable cam isnt overly needed.. but something that will give good power and loads of revs and power up high is what im after. any recommendations..?

cheers Jake

[Javal]

The EFI hardware stuff is quite good kit, but yes they're comparably as bulky as the carbs in the sense that will matter - length. 99% of ECU's you'd use to control the fuelling will control the spark as well, and if you're going to the effort of converting to EFI you'd be silly not to go to wasted / sequential ignition as well that way you can get rid of the fireball.

In regards to cam choice, everything is compromise in one way or another. A lot of people on here recommend some quite aggressive profiles for the 18RG as far as duration goes, but having never walked that path I can't make an educated comment myself. EFI will help smooth out some profiles but if you're running really big cams you won't be able to smooth it out entirely. EFI will give you greater control and tuneability to help cover for the mechanical deficit of your chosen cam profile though.

[Slidin23]

exactly what i was thinking in regards to the efi set up and ignition.
what coils are poeple using? i would prefer a drop in solution simalar to nissans set up on the sr20 instead of running a set up with coils and leads. i would like to keep the engine bay as neat and simple as possible.

also i actually have no idea about ecu's is there anything that you recommend running with the 18rg? im after something simple that i can just get wired in and not have shit like sensors and stuff everywhere.. i assume i wouldnt need anything to crazy as its really only running a rather basic engine in a sence.

i was thinking about going a really agressive cam. with the efi starting and stuff wont be an issue with such an agressive set up. the car will mainly be used for on track and hard hills driving. and see big rev,s regularly... i have been known to overly rev an engine haha..

have you seen any custom quad throttle set ups? i want a totally custom manifold off the head to so i can mount it upwards on an angle..

[Pagie84a]

You'll have abut of trouble moving the engine back if ur planning on cutting into sump the pickup sits towards the rear of the front sump. Also if your gunna look at coils your gunna need at trigger wheel on crank to control timing

[Slidin23]

moding the pick up as well as the sump wont be to much of a big deal. i will be paying for this to be done so it will be a professinal jobn way out of my skill set anyway!

i have seen aftermarket harmonic ballancers with trigger wheels for sale before. they seam to suit 350 chevs though i wonder if i could get something custom made up. i want it to be really really neat almost factory looking.
i am also planning to run the 4age style belt.. anyone changed over to this set up before?


man this thread useto get instant replys! where are all the 18rg guys now? is everyone just putting new engines in and bailing on the 18rg... ?

[Pagie84a]

Have a look in the 18rgte thread it's got pics of harmonic balancers with trigger wheels on them

[Slidin23]

found a pic of an 18rg with 20v throttles on it..

looked like an interesting set up that had the tilt and space that im after. anyone done this?

[geraldf]

had a quick search and couldn't find much on it, 22r crank in 18rg,
is it worth doing?
if not are there any other options for stroking the 18rg that don't cost an arm and leg?

[Slidin23]

heard of it being done.

heard it turns them into a lazy motor.

i had a mildly worked 22re with a cam exhaust and stuff made 82kw atw and i can say it was defaniatly a lazy low reving motor... great down low torque but when i was drifting it my mate had a 4age that was making less power and could out drive me..
i feel it would change the 18rg from a nice revy motor to simalar.. would make good low down torque though...