For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[jedrock]

jedrock, grab some vice grips or multigrips and try that on your rounded head. Be rough and forceful, so the tools have a chance to properly grip in. Before you get your radiator recored and all that jazz, run some radiator flush through. This will loosen off the crap in your block, which will then get dumped into the radiator, and so removed out of the system when you get the radiator re-cored. Have you checked your motor's tune?? Running lean or too much timing advance can cause you to run hot, and will also cause major damage if left unchecked for an extended period. Also, a smaller socket should still work... use an imperial one, they aren't much good for anything else

thanks for the info. Like i said i did all of the above, but yet my temp gauge is reading 210 degrees F, which is ~100 C. I guess i have to get my timing checked... Are there different thermostats that can withstand more heat? are there any signs that show off timing?

[Omegaman]

0 man
I think I'm finally getting the idea about upgrading to megasquirt.
I will wait unil I receive my new 450cc injectors. give the emanage setup one last chance.
the w/b LC1 will be fitted also, so these will give me a good indication on where to head next.

cheers

[o_man_ra23]

jedrock, different temp thermostats dont 'handle' greater temps, they open at different temps, to allow you to determine the operating temp. If your running much greater temps than what the thermostat opens at, then it isn't the thermostat causing the problem (assuming the thermostat is working properly).

Normally too much timing will cause the engine to detonate at high rpm. Timing light with proper markings on your crankshaft pulley will help, you should get no more than 33 degrees timing at maximum advance (ie high rpm). Taking the car to a mechanic who knows how to tune a multi-carb engine is a good start. They will be able to sort out both your mixture and timing, and they should do it on a dyno. Might cost a few pennies, but the result (assuming you don't have any farked components, and the mechanic knows what they are doing) would be worth it.

[Omegaman]

quote"Just thought I'd add something about measuring shims for replacement (read - reground) cams.

When measuring the valve clearances so that you know how think your new shims have to be, there's something to be mindful of:

There must be a shim under the bucket for the whole process to work.
The height difference from the protrusion on the underside of the bucket to the main bucket top underside is less than the difference between the top of the valve stem and the top of the valve spring retainer.

Basically, this happens if there's no shim in there:
You measure the clearances, you order the shims, you get the shims and they are all too thin.
The top of the retainer hits the bucket, but not where the shim sits.

I'm 98% sure that what I just wrote was really hard to understand for a lot of people, but when you put in reground cams (weld 'n' grind especially) make sure you remember to stick a shim in there or you'll waste your money every time.

Measuring up the shim clearances for base circle regrinds, it's a lot easier to just stick in your standard shims and then check the clearances. Weld/grind set ups may be different depending on how much hard facing was done."end quote.

This is all i could find after reading up to pg 30 of this thread.
I'm after info the proccess for measuring clearances for shims.
I have the 231 cams on a geu head,9.7.1 pistons, what clearances should I aim for? will this be the same as the green book(bible). where can I find the actual process info?

[o_man_ra23]

Yes, you are after green bible clearances. Torque the whole lot down, measure all your clearances with a feeler guage with the cam lobes facing away from the buckets (rotate the cams slightly for each measurement, you can do 1 in and 1 ex at the same time, so 4 separate measurements). Once you have the existing clearance, pull it all back apart, measure all the shims with a micrometer. Your new shim thickness required will be

existing shim thickness + existing clearance - required clearance.

Make sure you measure everything in the same scale (mm or inches - mm is easiest). Sounds like a stupid statement, but if you have feeler guages that are only in thousanths of an inch, and a micrometer that is metric, then you will have a lot of troubles, so get everything in the same scale first. Shims are sold in metric sizes, so that should tell you to get rid of your grandad's old imperial measuring tools and buy new ones.

[Omegaman]

So even with the mix match of cams,pistons I should still work on the clearances in the green book?

[Sagluren]

yep, green book knows all. \where do people buy there shims from???

[Steve M]

Sag

I've written this earlier, but don't remember if it was in this thread or another.

Precision Shims Australia
Chris Bullen
03 9723 0199

email: [email protected]

I think his prices were about $10 per shim, but they're a good looking shim.

[floppy]

Hey guys,

I was wanting to ask a favour of someone in the Ipswich area please.

Does anyone have a pair of solex or webbers off of their car that I could try on my 18RG this weekend or next?

I am trying to narrow down some niggly problems I have with the car.

I think its carb related, but just want to be able to rule them out if I could.

Spark wise I've put a new coil and new points (in another dizzy)

And in my carbs which used to run great on the last engine I just cant seem to get it it "smooth".

Its not smooth to drive when down low and at 60 in 3rd or 4th gear the car has this minute serging feeling.

I've replace the needle and seat with a new set from rodger, set the float levels at factory and played with the levels a bit from there. I think there might be a problem with idle passages either being blocked a bit or letting too much fuel through.

When giving it a bit of pedal it goes well, just difficult to hold at a set speed.

Tried advancing and retarding the timing (with the nifty dial on the new dizzy )

I've also double checked my cam timing to make sure I wasn't going nuts as well.

Alternatively if an RG guru has some time to have a listen and drive ......

Dave

[floppy]

Oh damn forgot to add to the last post.

What full engine gasket set is everyone using for the 18RG?

When I built mine at christmas time I didnt get one and got a few gaskets from the local supplier.

The one that I think is causing me my oil leak is the one that fits between the block and timing cover plate. I made one from a template of the dead old one, but think the gasket paper I used was too thing so under revs I am getting oil leaking out.
(If I take the tappet cover oil cap off and zip tie a rag to it I get less leaking ...less pressure I guess)

I could buy the gasket that sits between the timing cover and the metal plate, but not the "back" one that sits between the metal plate and the block.

The green book (and rivers 18rg thread) shows the one I mean.

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22911

Figure 9 of 108 shows gasket numbers 11312 as the back one and no one around here had one on the books (including toyota)

I could get 11328 though (bought a few while I could)

Dave

[o_man_ra23]

Dave, the 11312 gasket can be found in both the ACL and Gasmiser kits. These are available in an 18R-C re-ring kit (head gasket down) if you want it on the cheap. However, if reducing the pressure in the crankcase reduces the leakage, you have a blocked PCV. I hope for your sake you hooked the PCV (s) up when you put it together?? They should have a pipe going into the air filter on your back carb. Why I say PCV (s) is that some 18R-G variants have a lower PCV just behind the fuel pump, whereas others (like my 18R-GUE) do not, and only have an inspection plate there.

[ra_28]

Also your supposed to use some sealant between the block and the timing cover when assembling this is stated in the green bible, it's a common pace to leak. Oh where abouts do you live floppy i'm in chuwar.

Cheers
Alex

[floppy]

Dave, the 11312 gasket can be found in both the ACL and Gasmiser kits. These are available in an 18R-C re-ring kit (head gasket down) if you want it on the cheap. However, if reducing the pressure in the crankcase reduces the leakage, you have a blocked PCV. I hope for your sake you hooked the PCV (s) up when you put it together?? They should have a pipe going into the air filter on your back carb. Why I say PCV (s) is that some 18R-G variants have a lower PCV just behind the fuel pump, whereas others (like my 18R-GUE) do not, and only have an inspection plate there.

Hey Owen,

Ok cool, I will see if I can order one of the kits then. Do they do an 18RG kit or is it only 18R-C?
I can get a head gasket seperately if need be.

Mine is the one with the lower PCV plate and it hooks to the inlet manifold.

I did hook it up as well. From the block to the carb manifold, pcv valve inline with 2 pieces of pipe - clamped at all joins, and i did the "lip" test, sucked and it seemed to work the way it should...I have some different PCV valves from other engine I can try in line.

Dave

[floppy]

Also your supposed to use some sealant between the block and the timing cover when assembling this is stated in the green bible, it's a common pace to leak. Oh where abouts do you live floppy i'm in chuwar.

Cheers
Alex

Hi Alex,

Yeah I did forget to use the sealant. After I'd tentioned it all down and done a few kilometres in it, I re-read the book and had one of those "oh shit" moments.

Pretty sure I am going to order the ACL or gasmiser kit owen mentioned and bite the bullet and pull it out and make I put the sealant on and double check the gasket I mentioned in the previous post.

Oh I am in Leichhardt, just off toongarra road near avon street.

Dave

[o_man_ra23]

I made one with gasket paper years ago, bit of Permatex No. 2 and away she went. Never leaked. The 18R-C and 18R-G bottom end kits are identical except head gasket. Or you can get a full 18R-GUE kit from SWMotorsports with all top and bottom gaskets, including a genuine Toyota HG.

When you say you hooked the PCV into the carb manifold... there is a one way valve that goes through the casting, but that then goes to a T piece which joins to the PCV hose coming from the valve cover, which then goes into your air intake (ie where the filter is... then that air goes through the carb throats of the rear carb). Can you post up a photo of your setup?? Just sounds wierd.