For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[Omegaman]

i'm trying to confirm within 1 hr, whether Vr4 mitsu galant injectors will suit the 18rgeu.
these are 450cc blue DSM, i think they are low imp, not sure about top feed.
can anyone confirm?
i am searching, but nothing concrete yet.

[Omegaman]

i think the answer to the above on injector is NO.
there is a difference in length.
this is the vr4 one


this is a top feed nippon d 420cc

my search continues

[jedrock]

so how hot do our motors usually run? my motor gets as hot as 190 degrees.

[SillyCarS]

erm... not that hot!

[BLUEWIRE]

Yes the Vr4 mitsu galant injectors is what we use in our superchaged 18RGEU in the Bluwire Celica and after 5years still goes strong...

[RA35GT]

so how hot do our motors usually run? my motor gets as hot as 190 degrees.

Assuming you mean farenheight, than 190degrees is only ~88degrees celsius, if you have a 82degC thermostat (180deg farenheight), this is about right.

[SillyCarS]

yeah mine hung around the 85 to 90 deg C mark

sorry i didnt see you were from the states, maybe if you guys kept up with the rest of the world and shifted over from imperial we wouldnt have these problems

[Omegaman]

Yes the Vr4 mitsu galant injectors is what we use in our superchaged 18RGEU in the Bluwire Celica and after 5years still goes strong...

Thankes for the info.
though my search continues. this was a cheap ebay item.

[bnicho]

Anyone ever tried a dedicated gas conversion on an 18RG? Just curious!

[Omegaman]

Thankes for the info.
though my search continues. this was a cheap ebay item.

ok, back to injectors.
for an 18rgeu, there are two types of Inj's (peak hold and saturated)
i'm looking at 510 cc saturated, would this suit my application motor?

I hate chasing bargins

[hosking1991]

On a 88253 head near the exhaust ports there are three holes with threads (like some sort of breather) what do i do with these can i just leave them or do they have to be blocked

[Omegaman]

On a 88253 head near the exhaust ports there are three holes with threads (like some sort of breather) what do i do with these can i just leave them or do they have to be blocked

I see the ones you mean. directly under the 3 exhaust ports.
i have not used them at all. the green book say's nothing on them. from what I can see, they are theaded and blocked. Maybe for some sort of heat shield add on?

[Steve M]

Those are air injection holes for the 18RGU emissions system.

Just find some bolts with the correct thread, cut the heads off to desired length, hacksaw a flat head slot in them and screw them in to fill the hole.

From memory they might be an M8 x 1.25 thread but don't quote me on that, it's been a while since I've looked at one.

[hosking1991]

cheers fellas for clearing that up + rep

[jedrock]

jedrock, welcome. What head did you say you had?? 88250 or 88253, or is it a 2T-G?? If you had it bored to 2.0L, then you didn't have it bored much, as they are 1968cc from factory.

Now, causes of increased heat can be many and varied. First one to find is a leak... check the level in your radiator, does it go down at all??

Second, it's your summer right?? Are you having a heat wave?? (I am not joking here, this can be a serious contributer to the reduction of cooling capabilities), and you could well be using an air conditioner you don't use in winter (if you have air con)

Water pump - they have a little hole on the bottom of them halfway between the inner and outer bearings. If there is green (I am assuming you are using coolant... if not, start using coolant as that may well be your problem) or red (depending on what brand/mix you use) colour coming out that hole, or a rust trail, then you have a stuffed water pump. These things are pretty hardy, and its basically just the bearings that fail.

Next item is thermostat. Take it out, put it into a pot of boiling water (use and old pot or your mum/missus will kill you) and see if it opens. If it remains in the same position, or hardly moves, replace the thermostat. If you don't have a thermostat, that is why you are overheating, so you should install one.

Radiator cap... is it in good order and still functioning/sealing correctly?? A radiator cap that is in poor condition can cause overheating

If you have air con... make sure there is nothing stuck between the air con condenser and the radiator... leaves etc often build up in there.

If you have an auto, check your transmission fluid level and quality. A poor performing auto will cause overheating.

Check your oil. It should be fairly clean, not smell burnt, and be less than 6 months old. If not, replace the oil and filter. If you don't normally change your filter every oil change, smack yourself on the arse, this is a must.

Air filter, a clogged one can cause overheating.

Spark - check your ignition timing against manufacturer specks, this can be a cause of overheating.

Revs, if you run around at full revs all day, try driving sedately and see if this improves things.

Temp sender - is this still in good order?? A poor temp sender will show a false reading, and the summer you are in could lead to the engine bay feeling apparently hot.

Brakes, if they are dragging, then your engine has to work harder and will overheat. Lift the car onto stands, take off the handbrake and foot brake and put it in neutral. All wheels should be able to move fairly freely (you will notice if one is dragging)

Mixture, if your running lean you will run hot.

Hope I have covered as many possibilities as I can... but you really need to start narrowing down your search.

thanks for the help. I removed my water pump, and it seemed to be okay. I ran water through it to see if there were any clogs, and water ran freely through. But it does look a little rusty inside. I tried unscrewing the five bolts that hold the pump, but one screw got striped, any ideas?