For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[ra_28]

Yeah the external pump is used to draw the oil out of the sump.

[roadkill]

Hi,

two quick q's

a) does the crank clear the new sump??? Just looks like it might be a bit close

b) Looks like your block was sleeved - how come??

bEn

[ra_28]

Yeah the sump clears i've had it running. The bore got resleeved at 92.5mm but what you see is the metal oring.

cheers
alex

[ra_28]

Upgrading TPS to a potentiometer style one on a standard EFI has any one found easy change out.

Cheers
Alex

[jedrock]

hello all. i'm new to these forums. I recently started getting heating issues with my car. I have a 8825 bored to 2.0L in my ra21. Recently I noticed that after a drive, my engine bay seems to be a lot hotter than usual and my temp gage reads at over 280 degrees. I was thinking maybe its my water pump or radiator, anyway to check? any suggestions?

[o_man_ra23]

jedrock, welcome. What head did you say you had?? 88250 or 88253, or is it a 2T-G?? If you had it bored to 2.0L, then you didn't have it bored much, as they are 1968cc from factory.

Now, causes of increased heat can be many and varied. First one to find is a leak... check the level in your radiator, does it go down at all??

Second, it's your summer right?? Are you having a heat wave?? (I am not joking here, this can be a serious contributer to the reduction of cooling capabilities), and you could well be using an air conditioner you don't use in winter (if you have air con)

Water pump - they have a little hole on the bottom of them halfway between the inner and outer bearings. If there is green (I am assuming you are using coolant... if not, start using coolant as that may well be your problem) or red (depending on what brand/mix you use) colour coming out that hole, or a rust trail, then you have a stuffed water pump. These things are pretty hardy, and its basically just the bearings that fail.

Next item is thermostat. Take it out, put it into a pot of boiling water (use and old pot or your mum/missus will kill you) and see if it opens. If it remains in the same position, or hardly moves, replace the thermostat. If you don't have a thermostat, that is why you are overheating, so you should install one.

Radiator cap... is it in good order and still functioning/sealing correctly?? A radiator cap that is in poor condition can cause overheating

If you have air con... make sure there is nothing stuck between the air con condenser and the radiator... leaves etc often build up in there.

If you have an auto, check your transmission fluid level and quality. A poor performing auto will cause overheating.

Check your oil. It should be fairly clean, not smell burnt, and be less than 6 months old. If not, replace the oil and filter. If you don't normally change your filter every oil change, smack yourself on the arse, this is a must.

Air filter, a clogged one can cause overheating.

Spark - check your ignition timing against manufacturer specks, this can be a cause of overheating.

Revs, if you run around at full revs all day, try driving sedately and see if this improves things.

Temp sender - is this still in good order?? A poor temp sender will show a false reading, and the summer you are in could lead to the engine bay feeling apparently hot.

Brakes, if they are dragging, then your engine has to work harder and will overheat. Lift the car onto stands, take off the handbrake and foot brake and put it in neutral. All wheels should be able to move fairly freely (you will notice if one is dragging)

Mixture, if your running lean you will run hot.

Hope I have covered as many possibilities as I can... but you really need to start narrowing down your search.

[Sagluren]

just wanted to let all the 18rg boys ans girls know about this little tool i have made.

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=38331

have a look, any feedback would be nice. buy one if you like it.

the prototype works a treat but if anyone could point out any imporvements that would be great.


cheeers

[o_man_ra23]

Will have to show you mine. And I didn't need a milling machine to make it!! (definitely not as neat as your adaptor, but mine includes a bulletproof compressor too)

[YOTA75]

gday all love the thread been reading lots just wanted to know where to get head studs for the rg as arp has no listing and some of you guys had custom studs made where and how much thanks

[roadkill]

Hi,

pretty sure i've actually seen them fairly regularly on our most loved site - Eghey!! Pretty sure that they were arp as well, i'd probably recommend trying a different supplier or ring 'em direct as alot of people just don't like looking for old toyota stuff. Fall into the CBF category.

bEn

[o_man_ra23]

Ring Dave Wong from Sleeka Spares in SA. 08 8359 6446. Pretty sure he is the bloke from e-ghey that Ben speaks of (Dave7MGTE is his e-ghey username). Alternately send him an email at [email protected]

[ra_28]

They weren't head studs they were arp conrod bolts. We had a group buy made up, but finding someone to only make 10 would be hard. I have a spare set will cost you $220 + postage.

Cheers
Alex

[Steve M]

I got a couple of sets of head studs in the group buy a while ago. I still havent' used them, and no, no-one can have them. They're MINE!
YelloRolla set it up for us.

22R ARP rod bolts are the same as the 18R ones were. I was told that 3SG(TE?) rod bolts are the same also.
Dave at Sleeka Spares told me those details today.

I've also been told that there is an ARP mitsubishi part number that suits an 18RG head stud set.

[YOTA75]

thanks for the info guys . i got on to a fitter who would thread some grade 12 bolts for me will let yous know how much when i get em

[o_man_ra23]

there is a lot more to it than the grade of bolt... ARP put a lot of research into materials to find the elastic region etc.