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Thread: 1GGZE Standard specs

  1. #1
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default 1GGZE Standard specs

    Can someone confirm the 1GGZE standard specs? I've searched through the archives but didn't find anything of interest as I need to know if everything is as it should be on my Lux conversion.

    Timing: 12 deg (short out pins E1 -> TE1 on the Check Connector in engine bay)
    Idle: about 900 - 1000 RPM (couldn't set it to 800 RPM as it stalls)
    Temp: about 90 deg after warming up (NISMO Water Temp gauge inline with top radiator hose).
    I'm running NGK Iridium plugs set to standard gap - 11

    Anything else I should look for?

    Much appreciated,

    Cheers,

    Peter
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  2. #2
    Junior Member Domestic Engineer mic*'s Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE Standard specs

    Sounds fine. Or I should say is the same spec i had running for a long time till i just changed back to standard NGK's. Pretty sure my base timing is set to 10degBTDC tho. Idle was only above 900 when cold.

    How do you check the timing by shorting out the check connector?
    meh...

  3. #3
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE Standard specs

    Quote Originally Posted by mic*
    Sounds fine. Or I should say is the same spec i had running for a long time till i just changed back to standard NGK's. Pretty sure my base timing is set to 10degBTDC tho. Idle was only above 900 when cold.

    How do you check the timing by shorting out the check connector?
    In the engine bay there is a check connector. It's called Check Connector "N". It has the IG- pin (large pin with rubber cover on it at front), as well as a block of 9 pins to the left, and 2 in the middle (one above the other), and 6 pins to the right.

    You use a paper clip (for want of something more elaborate!) to short out pin 3 (E1) to pin 6 (TE1), then get a timing light, connect it to +ve and -ve on the battery, the inductive clamp on plug lead 1, then point light on timing notches. Mine's steady on 12 BTDC.



    Cheers,

    Peter
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  4. #4
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE Standard specs

    I might set my timing back to 10 deg BTDC tomorrow and see if I can't adjust the idle down a bit.

    Thanks mic* (+rep to you)

    Cheers,

    Peter
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  5. #5
    Junior Member Domestic Engineer mic*'s Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE Standard specs

    Yeah Peter, thats exaclty how i check my timing, just without shorting out the connector... Is there a reason why you have learnt to do this first???

    I dont wana sound pessimistic but i doubt your idle will drop by advancing the timing, my experience is it increases with advance. I set it at 10deg coz thats what i read somewhere for the 1ggze, and thats what the TSRM for the 7mgte with waste spark ignition says to run.

    Do you have power-steering & auto? Maybe its an ECU idle-up thing if you dont run those...? I have a permanent driven S/C which confuses my ECU for idling. I have played with the adjusting screw in the top of the TB for finer tuning of idle revs.
    meh...

  6. #6
    Car Alarm Guru and Grease Monkey GTtwin's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE Standard specs

    In order to disable vacuum advance. Also used for reading ECU fault codes.

  7. #7
    Junior Member Domestic Engineer mic*'s Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE Standard specs

    Yeah i use it for fault codes... How does vacuum advance work on a MAF, waste spark (no dizzy) ignition setup? I honestly thought the timing was just a map of different matrixes of airflow, rpm, and TPS signals.

    Oh, and why does shorting out the pins disable it? Havent heard of this...
    meh...

  8. #8
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE Standard specs

    Quote Originally Posted by mic*
    Yeah i use it for fault codes... How does vacuum advance work on a MAF, waste spark (no dizzy) ignition setup? I honestly thought the timing was just a map of different matrixes of airflow, rpm, and TPS signals.

    Oh, and why does shorting out the pins disable it? Havent heard of this...
    All cars have the same setup (AFAIK). You short it out in order to do diagnostics. In some cars it's in the engine bay; in others under the dash (like my Honda)

    Without shorting the connector my timing showed 15 deg BTDC. With the pins shorted it dropped back to a more aceptable 12 deg BTDC. It was not coincidence as the results are repeatable with/without the short pin.

    Cheers,

    Peter
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  9. #9
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE Standard specs

    Quote Originally Posted by mic*
    Pretty sure my base timing is set to 10degBTDC tho. Idle was only above 900 when cold.
    I've just had another look through my Japanese workshop manual for the 1GGZE and it has the timing set at 12 deg BTDC so mine is okay then. I'll leave it at that.

    Cheers,

    Peter
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  10. #10
    Junior Member Domestic Engineer mic*'s Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE Standard specs

    mmm sounds like i could be up to 5deg over advanced then!!! Thank you. Will need to check...

    On a related note i dropped a coil (secondary winding - coil C) the other day, straight after i used an in-line neon timing light. Am now rooting around trying to find another coil. Do you think that the light may have had anything to do with it stuffing up or just coincidence? (i just ask as i see you are using an inductive type)
    meh...

  11. #11
    Junior Member Automotive Encyclopaedia infotechplus's Avatar
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    Default Re: 1GGZE Standard specs

    Quote Originally Posted by mic*
    mmm sounds like i could be up to 5deg over advanced then!!! Thank you. Will need to check...

    On a related note i dropped a coil (secondary winding - coil C) the other day, straight after i used an in-line neon timing light. Am now rooting around trying to find another coil. Do you think that the light may have had anything to do with it stuffing up or just coincidence? (i just ask as i see you are using an inductive type)
    I'm not really qualified to say one way or the other but I've not had any problems using this light on a number of cars.

    Cheers,

    Peter
    OMG - Winner of the Official "Forum Comment of the Week"!

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