oh oh,. i have a question
is the new hole for the lower arm lying on the arc of movement from the lower arms original position? or it is moved fore/aft to return the pinion to a better angle or or?
Nice job.
I don't suppose you did some accurate 'blueprints' you can post up?
oh oh,. i have a question
is the new hole for the lower arm lying on the arc of movement from the lower arms original position? or it is moved fore/aft to return the pinion to a better angle or or?
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
New holes are in the line of the arc - keeping the original diff angle.
Just a note on upper control arms. I don't remember what angle they are on in relation to the horizontal, but I'm sure there would be a better angle to aid traction. As the top arms are in tension, perhaps they should also be angled upwards at the front, to pull the weight of the car down as the diff tends to want to rotate in reverse direction.
Problem is, it's harder to make adjustments to the upper arms, and with a limited budget, any improvement is always going to be a compromise.
Don't force it... use a larger hammer.
If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.
--------------------------------------------------------
Henk
Yes I do. I'll make them more presentable and post them ASAP.I don't suppose you did some accurate 'blueprints' you can post up?
Thanks for the interest...![]()
Don't force it... use a larger hammer.
If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.
--------------------------------------------------------
Henk
Sweet, 'll be interested in them.
The two bolt holes in the lower arm mount on the diff, are they both standard? Or did you have to drill one?
(I'm not at my car to check, and can't remember of the top of my head)
Good. Fast. Cheap.
Pick 2.
No extra holes necessary on diff bracket.
I'll add some instructions to the blueprints.![]()
Don't force it... use a larger hammer.
If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.
--------------------------------------------------------
Henk
Are you running spacers (washers?) either side of the trailing arm bush to make the bracket the same width as the original?
(about 3mm either side maybe?)
cheers,
Slapper
Brazed a 3mm plate with 2 holes on inner sides of bracket. Simpler than washers...
Don't force it... use a larger hammer.
If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.
--------------------------------------------------------
Henk
Awesome stuff, I've been considering welding on new brackets but didn't think about making some bolt on onesSome drawings of the side plates would be good.
On the upper and lower control arm tension/compression thing just take a look at the sections of the arms, large tubular on the bottom and thin solid bar on the top. This is the dumb, lazy man's way and you don't even have to think about force-moment diagrams![]()
Here's a link to a pdf with drawings of the traction brackets...
http://users.ncable.net.au/~cdekker/bracket.pdf
Let us know if you need further info.![]()
Last edited by grey_nomad; 26-04-2007 at 06:17 PM.
Don't force it... use a larger hammer.
If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.
--------------------------------------------------------
Henk
'This file cannot be found'.
Mind you I looked for it immediately.
Ah, got it now thanks to my trusty Mac at home! Top effort, thanks.
Last edited by parrot; 26-04-2007 at 10:47 PM.
works for me, top stuff grey nomad![]()
Cheers Nomad!
Good. Fast. Cheap.
Pick 2.
nice work nomad, +rep!
Great stuff, but the file throws errors when I try and open it - does it require a specific version of PDF reader?Originally Posted by grey_nomad
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