GRRR.. BHG+AW11 need help/tips

[DeftAnesthetik]

some might remember one of my previous posts about my car busting 2 alternator bolts. well now today im changing my oil or should i say milky oil. so i know what i have is the dreaded BHG. I am far from a noob to engines, the actual changing of the HG is no problem at all. I am however a noob to these cars. as they are a little different from the standard fare (midship) I just would like any tips/helpful suggestions on how to go about it. if anyone has anything to say that could save me some time in getting this changed out i would greatly appreciate it. My current source of reference is the Toyota BGB.

thanks in advance

[TooF]

grab your spanners and start pulling it down. they are no differnt to work on then a corolla with the same 4ag engine in them. if anything a shade eaiser.

no real specific tricks other then the usual HG change stuff. whilst your in there change some of the consumable stuff, like timing belt and seals.

[DeftAnesthetik]

engine was completely rebuilt 15,000 km ago so no need to replace anything else.

was hoping my first experience of really getting under the hood was going to be my c56 upgrade but i guess not. maybe i'll kill to birds with one stone and just get it all done at once.

[TooF]

in that case there isnt anything special about pulling them down they are just like any other 4ag

id be checking hyow true the mating surfaces are in looking for why the gasket went out. also make sure you use new head bolts.

[DeftAnesthetik]

gasket went because the alternator tension bolt blew out on me (twice) and the second time i (like an idiot) drove it home for ~25km. Do i HAVE to use new bolts or is it just recommended. I was told (previous owner) that ARP studs were used on engine rebuild.

[TooF]

arp studs can be reused but if it has standard TTY bolts they must be replaced.

so its been overheated ? you'll need to get the head checked for warpage as that sort of length drive can quite possibly bend the head,

[DeftAnesthetik]

so its been overheated ? you'll need to get the head checked for warpage as that sort of length drive can quite possibly bend the head,

something that i am unfortunatly aware of.

[TooF]

other then that no real tricks hoestly i think they are eaiser to work on then a dront engiend car with the same enigne.

good luck.

[robakka]

Real easy engine to work on, i just moved the wiring harness out of the way first then removed exhaust manifold, un did the water lines 2 on top of gearbox and t2 at the throttle body, removed front cam gear cover this was the hardest part. loosened cam gear bolts also not forgetting to mark position of cam gear with shaft as there are 2 directions the gears can go on, loosened then removed cam bearing caps, (starting from the inside out) now these are numbered so you wont have to worry about getting them mixed up. removed cam shafts after removing metal guard on the front of engine, take out head bolts and you can then lift it all off...

Might also be a good idea to get it plained as TooF said the head might have warped also might pay to get it crack tested...

If you get stuck i have an mr2 service manual on my computer i can e-mail the relivent bits to you...

Good luck with it all...

[TooF]

oh actully i do have a tip..

when you remove the cam belt backing plate you will need to remove the engine mount from the block to do so..

for ease of future removal take to the backing plate a little with a grinder so you can remove it without removing the engine mount..

makes like eaiser for the future.

[DeftAnesthetik]

oh actully i do have a tip..

when you remove the cam belt backing plate you will need to remove the engine mount from the block to do so..

for ease of future removal take to the backing plate a little with a grinder so you can remove it without removing the engine mount..

makes like eaiser for the future.

thanks, thats a nice one. well.... now im not sure if its a BHG. Rather than changing the oil, I just cleaned up the sludge buildup on oil cap and dipstick. filled my cooling system (yes i did it the proper way) i have driven it around (nicely) and im not losing any coolant and i am not seeing any more sludge building up...... seems to be hesitating a little bit on launch but it could be my driving skills/still getting used to the car. Me thinks a compression test could ease my mind. Am i correct in thinking these should be running about that 180psi mark...

[robakka]

Oh yeah i forgot to add abouut the front plate i grinded the bottom section of mine away also...

The manual say normal would be 178psi with a minimum 142psi and a maximum variation between cylinders of 14psi...

Goodluck with it...

[TooF]

drop the oil out and see what it looks like. ill bet its full of caramel.

if there is caramel in your oil/oil cap there is water in there. which means bhg or worse.


ill bet youve got a small crack between a water gallery and an oil return. and it is only opening up when you give it a flogging. ive had one do the exact same thing.