KE30 3k - Where to next?

[A-to-B]

So it looks like the cheapest KE55 (Borg Warner) diff is the way to go to handle a modest power tune.
Next question.

The requirements are:

*Preferably carby

*Something the standard diff can handle

*90-150HP

*Reliability (300kms+ a week to get me to work)


Which is the simplest/cost effective way to go out of these options?

*2T-G

*Rebuild the 3K, slot in a manual

*4, 5, or 7K

*Garrett GT15 3K (supposed to be matched from 1.0L to 1.6L)

*Centrifugal S/C for something different?

Or throw me another option if these have no merit. I'm open to suggestions, I have a bit of downtime between jobs at the moment. I have basic mechanical knowledge (ie I know it has four wheels). And before you say it, no, I'm not going to save my money and buy a Supra, or save up for a 400HP SR20. I just want something a bit more fun.

[YLD-16L]

I'll throw a vote toward the 2TG if you can find a decent condition one.

I had one in my KE38 for about 7 years and it never missed a beat, the standard diff held up fine behind it too even with a few forest sessions, a skid or two and general spirited driving.

The sound of a 2TG on song through a set of twin 40mm side draft carbies is not a bad tune to listen to either

Custom engine mounts are required, but if you get the engine mounted in the correct position then you can use you existing gear box crossmember on the T50 box and it'll bolt straight up to the extra set of bolt holes on the chassis rails. It was a pretty easy conversion and was the first one I did.

EDIT: I just noticed something about turbos and superchargers, neither of which will be friendly to your little diff nor will be easily/well setup up on a carbie system (can be done but there are many drawbacks).

Hhmmm you want relaible, simple, cost effective...........carbies, centrifugal blowers, garrett turbos

[A-to-B]

Haha yes, yes it was just a thought.
But you have to think out of the square
Even if it means some pretty whacked out ideas.

Although I thought a small centrifugal may be friendly as the boost curve is fairly linear with engine revs, no "spikes"?

The Garrett was just an "out there" thing... Ha.

[YLD-16L]

Haha yes, yes it was just a thought.
But you have to think out of the square
Even if it means some pretty whacked out ideas.

It's not too outside the square, it's all been done before in some way or other. But if you're on a budget and want reliability and enough poke to have fun then go for a 5K or 2TG or even a 2T. You should be able to do most of the conversion yourself.

[oldcorollas]

easiest and most fun bang for buck.

5K with a mild cam, and a manual gearbox (assuming you have an auto atm?)

4K is cheaper/easier, but... the extra 200cc makes a fair difference in torque.

(and then later, whack on a 7KE efi system with megasquirt)

(and then later, whack on a K head and a GT15 )

[YLD-16L]

5K with a mild cam, and a manual gearbox (assuming you have an auto atm?)

Agreed, my brothers KE10/11 (one of those ) with a 5K, cam, weber, extractor, zorst makes about ~60kw at the treads and is pretty fun to drive. Very good bang for buck daily with some old school class.

[A-to-B]

It is an auto at the moment, will be changed asap, as it refuses to die and give me reason for replacing it.
So there's no point going 7K complete engine? Too rare/costly?
If all the K series have the same mounts, they should be an easier fit?

Although that 2TG with twin 40mm's sounds so very tempting...

I know you guys are way ahead of me with all this sort of stuff and probably owned more corollas than you have fingers...

[YLD-16L]

I know you guys are way ahead of me with all this sort of stuff and probably owned more corollas than you have fingers...

Nah, I've only owned 4 corollas and two don't count because one never made it on the road (abandoned project) and the other was FWD

The other two I just kept/keeping for a long time to enjoy and tinker with and learn from.

7K's turn up at importers and other places from time to time but are pretty rare.

[MRMOPARMAN]

4age with carbs in place of injection

[oldcorollas]

4age with carbs in place of injection

cos thats like.. legal and all

7K does not have same mounts, the block skirt is wider.
the block is also taller, but should fit under the bonnet.. but that also means slightly different exahust etc..
7K is also EFI, and to be honest, you don't sound to ready to tackle an EFI install not just yet..

5K is easy (same as 4K but bigger bore) goes well, won't get you in too much trouble and will respond to basic mods. perfect place to start to learn

[BradW]

PM sent re 2TG

[WDE_BDY]

cos thats like.. legal and all

7K does not have same mounts, the block skirt is wider.
the block is also taller, but should fit under the bonnet.. but that also means slightly different exahust etc..
7K is also EFI, and to be honest, you don't sound to ready to tackle an EFI install not just yet..

5K is easy (same as 4K but bigger bore) goes well, won't get you in too much trouble and will respond to basic mods. perfect place to start to learn

7K also comes in carb format. Its not a bolt in conversion but a little thought and planning and a few fabrication skills (possibly sump mods depending on car) will see it fitted. Not a revvy motor but a lot more torque than a 5K.

Callum

[A-to-B]

7K is also EFI, and to be honest, you don't sound to ready to tackle an EFI install not just yet..

5K is easy (same as 4K but bigger bore) goes well, won't get you in too much trouble and will respond to basic mods. perfect place to start to learn

No, don't think I'm quite ready for something that severe yet!

The thing is though, with any engine swap, it can't be something that needs to be engineered. Because with the RTA's rule that basically if it has a performance radiator cap, it's modified and evil, it just makes it that much harder starting out modding cars.

If I drive sensibly and don't attract too much attention from the boys in blue, I should be right, IF it doesn't have to be engineered. Every engineer I talk to never has the same answer either. Which is why a 5k sounds good right now, as does a 2t.

So it's just another obstacle, but I'll work around it

There are three P-plater mustard 'rollas here, and at the end of the day, if mine beats (legally, of course) a manual 3k with a 32/36 then it's worth it.

[YLD-16L]

If I drive sensibly and don't attract too much attention from the boys in blue, I should be right,

Nah the bigger concern is when your illegally modified car runs up the back of a Porsche and your insurance company says TFB and the Porsche owners insurance company gets its money from you by hook or by crook = you broke for and paying off someone elses car for a long time.

It probably won't happen but it does happen to some unfortunate individuals.

[A-to-B]

Also, on the difference between 2T and 2TG, correct me if I'm wrong.

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homep...epho/eng2t.htm

The 2T engine is a pushrod, overhead valve engine with 4 inline cylinders.
The block is cast iron and the cylinder head is alloy.
All versions of the 2T can use unleaded petrol because all alloy heads have hardened valve seats.
Gaskets can be shared between all versions (twincam can use gasket goop for timing cover).
Inlet and exhaust manifolds shared between all versions.
A 2TG has twin overhead camshafts, alloy head and twin sidedraft carbs.