Force Fed RACE 4A (blown 94 GZE)

[takai]

Borrow my SC12 and throw it in there while you build up a turbo setup....

Hehhe, i think all those forte drugs are going to your head But maybe thats where they are needed....

Anyway, i would say to go SC14, or tarbo.

[GUN METAL]

Thanks for the feedback but anyone else got any more ?

The blower is out so what do i do now ?

Is it worth pulling apart ? if so are any special tools required ? how long would it take ?

i am thinking it IS worth pulling apart to work out what EXACTLY went wrong with it, hopefully that be make it easier to establish how to proceed.

[TooF]

well now its out id be looking at whats siezed. remove the pulley and clutch assembly from it and see if thats whats siezed, if not check the rotors whats casused them to sieze, have their contacted each other ? the casing ? shop rag ? are there obvious marks ? there should be some tell as to how it gave up

edit: oh and no special tools just some spanners and some circlip pliers.

[Ben Wilson]

Is it worth pulling apart ? if so are any special tools required ? how long would it take ?

I don't seem to recall needing anything too special to pull it apart, but I've got a lot of tools in my shed...

Off the top of my head, the only tricky part is the nut on in the clutch, but if yours is seized, that won't be hard.

Can you see anything jammed inside it by looking in the ports?

Give me a call if you get stuck.

[GUN METAL]

Thanks,

I havnt seen it yet will post some pics once i can get out there and have a look.

Suppose it doesnt matter at the moment as i have ZERO funds after the last spending spree, so it looks like the car will be sitting there for at least another 4 to 8 weeks

i could have imported that AW11 7afe 20v for the same money .....................i feel like i should have listened to dave and kept the NA.........cry cry cry

[TooF]

like i said mate, you can HAVE my spare blower, just needs a pulley on it. so assuming your pulley is ok and the rotors are melted then easy solution, otherwise if the pulley is fried we should be able to come up with a pulley without too much grief.

[Ben Wilson]

And mine is just sitting on the floor of my shed...

[lunar_c]

Can I have one of these free sc12's for my twinky?
Agree with the lads here .... pull it down first before making plans... the toyo blowers seem pretty robust in my limited experience with them.
I think they have teflon tipped rotors which can overheat if overdriven? What are your inlet temps? If overdriving the hell out of it with a standard cooler .. may be cooking the blower - I believe they run pretty hot in the MR2 stock .. and theyre are sort of sensitive to debrit so they're two avenues to really look at ...
Just pull your throttlebody assembly off the blower inlet and get one of those extendable inspection mirrors in there and have a look .. should only take you half an hour to get that far and you'll know a lot more after having done it.
If the housing inside is all scored up .. you've either got debrit into the blower or one of the tips has come off and got munched - see if you can see obvious damage to the screws from either cause.
If it looks clean inside but won't turn .. then the bearings have siezed .. check the oil (handy how they have a dipstick) and confirm it had lubrication .. if so .. then maybe belt tension led to the shaft running out of true and munched the bearings causing them to sieze ..
Hope it's just a melted blower as you seem to have free SC12's coming out of your ears .. throw another one on while you decide what you want to do - if you're reasonably happy with the power you have now .. put another SC12 on and pending on your findings .. perhaps adress your inlet temps or take the overdrive pulley off for longevities sake - but find out what killed it before you start getting ahead of yourself.
Hope that helps,
Ben

[GUN METAL]

OK the charger is out, unfortunately i STILL havnt seen it but the mechanic says theres nothing obviously wrong , the blades look ok and the oil as i said before was fine, full and clean. So i am suspecting a bearing maybe ? he is going to strip it down this arvo. He has sourced a good SC12 from SSS for 300 so at this stage i think this is going to be the way to go simply due to the fact he wants the car gone and because its the cheapest option and i dont have any money left

The thing i dont understand is that it was only making 10 PSI during the dyno runs not the 13 it used to make...fook fook fook

[feral4mr2]

And mine is just sitting on the floor of my shed...

and freight would be cheaper than 300 quid......




havnt read all the thread (connection sucks out here) but the simplest brain fart to me would be to just replace the blown s/c (if it is infact u/s) with another and get on with it.

[GUN METAL]

and freight would be cheaper than 300 quid......




havnt read all the thread (connection sucks out here) but the simplest brain fart to me would be to just replace the blown s/c (if it is infact u/s) with another and get on with it.

Thats true but it will cost me more than thatin labour to replace it when he wants it back

[feral4mr2]

surely between yourself and all the mr2'ers there you could put aside 1 hour and replace it yourselves.....

[TooF]

im happy to help but im also 2 hours drive away. and currently with an ill mr2

[nick.parker]

Hey Gun,

Sorry to hear of your misfortune.

First of all Feral has a point. SC12's are cheap and it would not be too hard to put another SH one on your car.

However my suggestion is this :: If you are able to throw some money at your car and want a GOOD fix and to stay SC (I love SC ) I can think of no better blower for the AW11 than an Autorotor 2087 (I have just bought one for my car too - well actually its been sitting for a few months...but things are starting to get organised !).

Specs :: 870cc / rev, 15000rpm max continuous operating speed. pressure ratios up to about 3:1 (2 bar boost) depending on max speed etc. As proven by 'Ron' who posted his twinscrew setup you can make 260rwhp at 21 psi (and that was a stock smallport head, not modded like yours). Its the closest thing to turbo power short of a turbo, and will likely be even better than the Toyota SC12 at low rpm boost.

The Toyota SCs, as much as I love them (see sig), have pretty severe performance limitations when you want to start pushing the PSIs - the original Rootes BLOWER (not compressor) design was used to be ventilate mine shafts. I know you race/hillclimb for fun, but the Autorotor will let you be more competitive and give you scope for more power.

Good Luck whatever way you go.
Nick.

[GUN METAL]

Thanks for the help and comments kids.

Nick i seriously thought about going that way but i just dont have the money ATM, especially after just investing like 6k into it

I would have given it a go myself but its obviously undrivable at the mechanics and i just dont have any time either

Just got a call from the mechanic and it was the bolts that hold on the clutch wound them selves out he says id was idling at the time and the rest of the charger looks fine . He has organised a new clutch for it $100 from SSS so all things going well i will have it back THIS WEEK !!!!!!