2jz Bottom End 1jz Head

[gianttomato]

Also, the engine mounting point on the drivers side of the 2J VVTi is different to all other J series engines.

That's the second time I have heard this today so I went out and had a look for myself.
Six of the holes on my VVTi 2JZGE look to be exactly the same as all my non VVTi 2JZGEs. The VVTi 2JZGE seems to have a pile of other holes (at least 4) that seem to be different to which the engine mount for this particualr engine was bolted. I could mount my non VVTi Crown and Soarer engine mounts to my VVTi engine but couldn't go backwards.

The passenger side is identical.

Matt, hopefully whoever made your mounts has used the non VVTi bolt holes.

[whatthe?]

Think this goes in the too hard basket for now. New engine mounts wont be an issue but if I have to use a VVTi bottom end to fit the head then that's a bit of an issue

The GE bottom end is probably easier to find but doesnt have oil squirters and the GTE block will be like hens teeth. From what I hear the rods are different to the pre VVTi version too.

My head hurts

To make a VVTi 1.5J you need the VVTi 2JZ block. Seen them done in Japan.
Also, the engine mounting point on the drivers side of the 2J VVTi is different to all other J series engines. Passengers side is same though.

Different to VVTi 1J too, yeah?

[Liau.Bdar]

EldarO, tested boost today I wouldn't call it insane since it's only just a few hundred rpm earlier maybe around 1600-1700rpm from third to fifth when I step on the pedal

With people talking about the oil feed needing to be welded, aren't there other oil feeds? doesn't the oil flow from one end to the other inside the head?

[EldarO]

thats awesome, positive pressure from 1600 IS insane, hard to see that from many other turbo cars.

must be boring to drive, no turbo rush

[gianttomato]

but doesnt have oil squirters

Not entirely sure this matters - plenty of big horsepower turboed 2JZGEs in the states.

[benny c]

Yeah, from the info that I have ben given, the oil squirters are only applicable to the oem gte pistons. And I'm fairly confidant that if you were to use a ge block you would go aftermarket forgies so the oil squirters are irrelevant.

[Soarer21]

Think this goes in the too hard basket for now. New engine mounts wont be an issue but if I have to use a VVTi bottom end to fit the head then that's a bit of an issue

The GE bottom end is probably easier to find but doesnt have oil squirters and the GTE block will be like hens teeth. From what I hear the rods are different to the pre VVTi version too.

My head hurts



Different to VVTi 1J too, yeah?

Im sure if you were dead keen on the VVTi head you could get it to function on a non-vvti block providing all else matched between the head layouts. An external feed to the vvti passage from say the oil pressure sensor area could work but it'd require a bit of dedication and risk of experimentation on your part

EldarO, tested boost today I wouldn't call it insane since it's only just a few hundred rpm earlier maybe around 1600-1700rpm from third to fifth when I step on the pedal

With people talking about the oil feed needing to be welded, aren't there other oil feeds? doesn't the oil flow from one end to the other inside the head?

There is only one oil feed into the head. Look at the pics I and other people have posted and you'll see. Yes there are oil passages in the head but it only comes from one source.

Yeah, from the info that I have ben given, the oil squirters are only applicable to the oem gte pistons. And I'm fairly confidant that if you were to use a ge block you would go aftermarket forgies so the oil squirters are irrelevant

Oil squirters aren't irrelevant. They are there for a reason. The fact that some people don't use them doesnt make them redundant. Manufacturers use a lot less boost in their engines but they are meant to actually last hence the squirters which are there to cool the crown of the piston. Just because you use forged pistons doesnt mean the heat goes away. Generally it'll be a hell of a lot worse because you'll run lots more boost, lots more power and you wont run the engine mega-rich in the top end like the OEM ECU does. Of course if all you're intending to do is build a dyno hand-grenade then by all means do away with the reliability options...

[gianttomato]

Toyota sells the squirters separately. Simple process of machining the block and tapping into the oil gallery if you must.

[benny c]

Hey I'm not gona argue with you. I'm just going on information supplied to me by JUN, which is good enough in my book. Either way I'm running a gte block so I guess it really doesnt' matter that much.

[Soarer21]

Hey I'm not gona argue with you. I'm just going on information supplied to me by JUN, which is good enough in my book. Either way I'm running a gte block so I guess it really doesnt' matter that much.

Nobody arguing here that Im aware of. You made a statement, I pointed out the obvious. No doubt JUN are making an assumption its a road car engine which wouldnt be on boost long enough for heat buildup to be critical. Me, well I prefer to err on the side of over-engineering

[Liau.Bdar]

seeing that the head gaskets on the 1JZ and the 2JZ does not overlap at the oil feed hole as the previous pictures show and no welding was done on my 1JZ head wouldn't this mean that no oil is flowing, and with no oil flowing wouldn't the head just die from the absence of lubrication? or is it that the holes are just not aligned properly thereby providing only a reduced amount of oil for the required lubrication.

[Soarer21]

seeing that the head gaskets on the 1JZ and the 2JZ does not overlap at the oil feed hole as the previous pictures show and no welding was done on my 1JZ head wouldn't this mean that no oil is flowing, and with no oil flowing wouldn't the head just die from the absence of lubrication? or is it that the holes are just not aligned properly thereby providing only a reduced amount of oil for the required lubrication.

The 1J head has a slot cut in it, so you'll be getting oil to the head. It's just going to be incredibly close to the edge of the block so you may find an oil leak springing up before too long

[ed]

temperature profiles of forged pistons are significantly different to cast pistons, and the use of oil squirters to cool the skirt of a forged piston is debateable

[Soarer21]

Irrelevant, they still get hot and cooling them will only assist in an engines life-span and resistance to detonation. Suffice to say, you lot do what you want to do, and I'll follow what the manufacturers spent millions developing

[ed]

I'll follow what the manufacturers spent millions developing

im sure they didnt devellop their engine's for the levels of boost, rpm, use and other modifications you have or will throw at, why stop now?