Hmm cheers manny, well now im bloody confused.....i guess if you built yours and know for certain no welding was done, then i wont do any welding....
Probably closer to a dozen of us running 1.5JZs in Oz.
annoyingrob has pretty much covered it as far as differences are concerned.
GSE20 IS250 - daily
UZZ30 Soarer - 1UZ-FE/R154/Adaptronic - trackday roughie
UZZ32 Soarer - Active Hydropneumatic Suspension (A-SUS) & Active Four Wheel Steering (A-4WS) - cruiser
Hmm cheers manny, well now im bloody confused.....i guess if you built yours and know for certain no welding was done, then i wont do any welding....
I didn't personally end up building mine as I couldn't find anyone locally I had faith in delivering a proven product rather than an ongoing R&D project at my expense - mine was built in Japan and imported on a ready running car, so don't quote me on the right and wrong way as I've never quantified either way myself.Originally Posted by Wildsupra
Hardcore Racing/JHH who have built some of the 1.5JZs locally seem to favour welding the head whereas the info from Japanese tuners was no welding was required.
I'll have my engine out and head off in coming months, so I'll see what combo/technique was used for my engine in Japan.
GSE20 IS250 - daily
UZZ30 Soarer - 1UZ-FE/R154/Adaptronic - trackday roughie
UZZ32 Soarer - Active Hydropneumatic Suspension (A-SUS) & Active Four Wheel Steering (A-4WS) - cruiser
Yeah that was the exact reason i asked, because JHH do weld them.
Hmm now im really unsure of what to do......Hurry up and pull yours apart
More research needed now....i wonder what shane has done?
Cheers
Matty
What needs to be welded on the head? Do you think there may be some variation in Japanese, Australian, and US motors that's causing the confusion?
i used a 2jzgte head gasket, just a facotry toyota one.
8.3 et PB 169 MPH PB
shane, did the head NEED any work before it went on (other than any upgrades/mods you did at the same time?)
Elmo.
Just so you guys know, I put my 1.5JZ together a few days ago. Nothing needs to be done to the head to fit on the block. Nothing. The only thing you need is the 2JZ water neck.
nice info rob!
Project Soarer II - Sold
Evo 5 - The silver fruitbox
"I'm the man who has the ball. I'm the man who can throw it faster than f**k. So that is why i am better than everyone in the world. Kiss my ass and suck my dick... everyone."
bah this 1.5jz crap its really pissing me off.
its the same deal as putting a 186 head on a 202. what do you call it?
a 194?
as many have said just go the 2jz and be done with it. unless mods are done.
Interesting, i wonder what it is exactly that some workshops / people find the need to weld up then?Originally Posted by annoyingrob
Look forward to hearing what was done in your case Manny when you take your motor apart.
back to your gemini in the corner fishOriginally Posted by Fish
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Rob, why would you need the water neck from a 2JZ? hope nothing serious as I used the one from the 1JZ, and to those that are counting, I didn't do any welding on the head
if you dont use the 2j neck that runs from the waterpump to the outlket on the head you will find out when you put the coolant back in that its 20+mm too short and your coolant will be all over the floor. bad times
cheers linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
i think people may be getting confused on this water neck issue...
the piece being reffered to is the short bit with an "O" ring on either end that joins the 2 water pipes NOT the actual water neck that the radiator hose connects too.
Hope that clarifies.
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