Here's a 2J head for comparison, sorry for the stitched picture, mobile phone camera
Here's a pic of my 1j head, dunno which bit the problem is though.
Here's a 2J head for comparison, sorry for the stitched picture, mobile phone camera
Yes please enlighten me why coolant is going to start pouring into my #2 cylinder. When you say crank up the boost, how much are you talking about? I'm running 18psi through a GT40-88.
slightly OT query: why does no-one talk about 2JGTE heads onto 1JZ blocks? (apart from the wrongness of pulling a 2J apart)
... after looking at/comparing the size of the zorst ports on 1J and 2J heads it's pretty obvious that the 3 litre donk flows an metric arse-load more exhaust gas. The 2J ports are huge compared to the 1J zorst ports. i didn't get a chance to compare intake ports.
I guess mainly for the cost versus extra performance factor.
The sole and main reasons for the 2JZ block onto a 1J head is for the extra 500cc and most importantly if you have spent sh*tloads on custom manifolds turbos, headwork etc on your 1J head but have blown the block apart.
If you wanted the extra flow of the 2J head you might as well swap the whole motor in. It could be done if you were hardcore on keeping the 1J block but I dont see why you would if you could spend the money on just getting the 1J head done if you wanted extra flow.
Ive seen one engine in Japan with a 2J head on a 1J block. NFI why they did it.
Now I have been racing a 1.5JZ with somewhere around the mid 400's at the rear wheels since beginning of the years. I built it myself, spent a fair bit of time studying the heads of both, and the gaskets of both and I did weld a small secton of the head, but not anywhere near #2 and had nothing to do with water... Prior to doing it, I also spoke to John Hill, and he told me what was required and it had nothing to do with water, or #2...
Also, the bypass pipe between water pump and water outlet IS a different length between 1J and 2J and the water outlet is slightly different as previously noted. I have photos at work of these things. IF you actually want to see, PM me an email address and I'll send you some pictures
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me then a frontal lobotomy
1jz-gte vs 2jz-gte bypass neck comparison attached
GSE20 IS250 - daily
UZZ30 Soarer - 1UZ-FE/R154/Adaptronic - trackday roughie
UZZ32 Soarer - Active Hydropneumatic Suspension (A-SUS) & Active Four Wheel Steering (A-4WS) - cruiser
Well that settles that.Originally Posted by manny
Good pic mate, up-repOriginally Posted by manny
Here are mine:
Bypass pipe length difference
Water outlet difference. Sorry for blurry pic, dodgy camera
Oil feed area of headgaskets. 1J on top, 2J on bottom
1J head, oil feed area
2J head, oil feed area
2J block, oil feed area
1J block, oil feed area
1JZ head with oil feed section welded up, and re-drilled at angle so the 2J feed hole in block is met.
Now, it may not be 100% required to do this as someone has already said they didnt and its running however, if you look at the block areas and the head etc it is highly likely that an oil feed issue will occur without doing this as the high pressure feed is very close to the edge if you do the swap and no changes. I looked at the water jacketing for a while prior to proceeding with the conversion and I couldn't see any reason as to why any other changes might need to occur.
Thats just my $0.02 worth anyway
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me then a frontal lobotomy
Also, forgot to mention.
Serpentine belt tensioner from 2J needs to be used, can't use 1J unit as they are different angles and you wont get the 1J unit to work.
Oil pumps are "almost" identical from the outside. I tried to pull one of each apart but they resisted my ministrations and I surrendered to their will. What I did find however is that the mounting point for the timing belt tensioner is about 5mm different from each other, and the if you use the 1J oil pump on the 1.5J the timing belt tensioner will only JUST put enough tension on the belt for it to be functional. I've run it this way for all year to now with a rev limit of 8000rpm and had no issues but I was peeved when I realised what Id done, and since it was already together I wasnt pulling it down again just for that. JHH made me a mechanical tensioner anyway that does away with the Toyota sprung/hydro unit and removes the possibility of a belt jump under high RPM shock loads. Again, may not be 100% needed but better to be safe then sorry sometimes.
Apart from that most of its simple. Fuel feed to rail needs the 1J feed and it can't be bolted to the block as it was originally because the extra block height means it wont reach properly.
Can't recall any other things being of concern.
I used the 2J inlet valves in the 1J head also, as they were larger however 1J exhaust valves are larger then 2J
I used a GReddy 1.2mm headgasket as well, so CR was higher then usual. I didnt mind as it made it a bit more responsive.
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me then a frontal lobotomy
You mean Timing belt tensioner rightOriginally Posted by Soarer21
Not serpentine...
Cheers
Wilbo
Said what I meant, meant what I said mate sorryOriginally Posted by wilbo666
Assembled the front, went to fit serpentine belt and wondered why it wouldnt fit... Compared the starting angles of the two serpentine belt tensioners and found they were different. Fitted the 2J unit, serpentine belt went on like it was meant to be there...
I didnt note any difference between timing belt tensioner arms, but didnt do any measuring so can't comment on them sorry.
Last edited by Soarer21; 01-10-2007 at 02:57 PM. Reason: added word "serpentine" to avoid confusion again
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me then a frontal lobotomy
Well there ya go! I might check that at some stage!Originally Posted by Soarer21
They are different, same bearing different arm...Originally Posted by Soarer21
Cheers
Wilbo
Hey guys, long time reader, first time poster. lol, always wanted to say that
I have a 1j with a bottom end that has seen many better days. Was hooked up with a 2j bottom end by a mate so am about to proceed with the 1.5j conversion. With all this talk about oil feed lines, I thought that I'd ask the guy doing all the head work for me. We overlayed the 2j gasket on the 1j head and found out that this oil feed hole in question doesn't some close to lining up, so it would appear that the head does need modding.
Went into see some mates at the local toyota dealership and harrassed them about interchangable parts. After a good few hours staring at the parts pc screen we came up with a list of what is and is not changable, and this differs somewhat from what the general concensus is. Hopefully by the time we have finished this project, I will have a complete list of what has to be done, and what parts to use (with numbers )
Cheers
Last edited by benny c; 13-10-2007 at 11:17 PM.
Top work mate. I am sure a lot of people would be very greatful. Using a je or gte bottom end?
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