1jz-gte TA22, can it be done?

[harolto]

g'day
after nearly putting a SR20DE into my celica, i have put that up for sale and am wanting to go along the 1jz route,
i have searched but could only find TA23 or RA23's with 1Js in them,
i am planning on recessing the wirewall, and getting a new trans tunnel welded in,
and putting the battery in the boot,
but i have a few questions
what 1jz would be best? frount or mid sump?
also is there any big reason that i cant find one that has been put in a TA22? are they too weak, or way too short?
the Ta22 im planing to put it in is an early 1972 LT (fuel filler in back)
any help at all is appreciated
thanks
-Jake

[brett_celicacoupe]

get a tape measure, measure your car, measure a 1JZ (at an importers), take a step back and say fuck several times.

the engine is 150 odd mm higher and LOTS longer.

at the end of the day, the car wont turn, it will just go good in a straight line.

a 2litre 4 cylinder would be more sensible

[Draven]

the reason people go the ra23 for the 1j conversion is that the engine bay is a bit bigger. From memory, the 1jz-ta22 has been done, but involved a decent amount of firewall/ radiator support butchery.

From what you say, you're aware that the firewall is going to be "massaged", and you've taken into account trans tunnel mods, so I assume you realise this will be a) expensive and b) turn it into a lead-tipped arrow ?

[harolto]

yeah i realised i would need to do firewall mods,
also i looked into the SR20DET and 3SGTE path, but didnt realy like the outcomes, or the faults with both engines
also, i dont think it will so much be a "lead tipped arrow" with a bigger diff, ,fuel system, battery in the boot, and engine recessed, the weight distribution shouldnt be that bad, then i would just need suspension to suit.
also for expensive, i was thinking that i should have the conversion done for around $10k,
i have mates who are farbicators and do body work, and can give me good prices on that stuff, and i should be able to get a 1jzgte for around $3k with manual box,
all feedback is appreciated (negative and positive)
so, what model 1jz is the best? frount or mid?
thanks again
-Jake

[Draven]

out of curiosity, what is your aim for the car? generally speaking, the SR20 and 3S engines put out more than enough power to kick the little ta22 around at insane speeds

[brett_celicacoupe]

depends what crossmember you want to use.

factory ta22 xmembers curl backward and use a front sump.

however if your going to the effort of fitting a 1jz, you should also consider fitting rack and pinion steering. although this R&P may be mandatory for clearing turbos.

in which case, you want a front sump. JZX81 half cuts have a large front sump

[skiddz]

yeah i saw a 1jzge 22 at jambo last yr, it was enough to say fuck how would you do anything under the bonnet, the gte is only gonna be tighter

[Norbie]

i was thinking that i should have the conversion done for around $10k

Not a chance in hell. By the time you've done everything to make this car workable it will probably owe you at least twice that much, and very easily more. It's not just slotting the engine in, you'll also need to upgrade/replace just about everything else in the car - transmission, tailshaft, diff, suspension, steering, brakes, cooling system, fuel system, electricals, you name it. And this isn't taking into account the extensive bodywork/fabrication required to get a 1JZ to physically fit! People often don't realise exactly how big and heavy 1JZ's are; don't let the 2.5 litres fool you, they really are quite a substantial lump of engine.

As for the weight distribution thing, it will be very poor indeed. Sure you can put a lot of weight in the back of the car (diff, battery, fuel system etc) but that's making the problem worse, not better! The last thing you want is all the weight of the car at either end, the ideal is to have it all as close to the centre as possible - which of course will be very difficult when you're putting all these big heavy components into a little car. Make no mistake, this car won't handle anywhere near as good as the same thing with an SR20 in it. If you don't mind having a straight-line/drag queen car that's ok, but if you want a competent streeter or something to punt around a circuit then I strongly suggest you re-think your plan.

I'm surprised no-one has mentioned this but have you checked this conversion will even be legal in your state? You might find that (a) no engineer will touch it or (b) the engineering costs will be astronomical. That's something to check very carefully before you commit to anything.

[Jorrs]

Not a chance in hell. By the time you've done everything to make this car workable it will probably owe you at least twice that much, and very easily more. It's not just slotting the engine in, you'll also need to upgrade/replace just about everything else in the car - transmission, tailshaft, diff, suspension, steering, brakes, cooling system, fuel system, electricals, you name it. And this isn't taking into account the extensive bodywork/fabrication required to get a 1JZ to physically fit! People often don't realise exactly how big and heavy 1JZ's are; don't let the 2.5 litres fool you, they really are quite a substantial lump of engine.

As for the weight distribution thing, it will be very poor indeed. Sure you can put a lot of weight in the back of the car (diff, battery, fuel system etc) but that's making the problem worse, not better! The last thing you want is all the weight of the car at either end, the ideal is to have it all as close to the centre as possible - which of course will be very difficult when you're putting all these big heavy components into a little car. Make no mistake, this car won't handle anywhere near as good as the same thing with an SR20 in it. If you don't mind having a straight-line/drag queen car that's ok, but if you want a competent streeter or something to punt around a circuit then I strongly suggest you re-think your plan.

I'm surprised no-one has mentioned this but have you checked this conversion will even be legal in your state? You might find that (a) no engineer will touch it or (b) the engineering costs will be astronomical. That's something to check very carefully before you commit to anything.

cough cough. 3SGTE

[river]

Hi,

Agreed. A 3S-GTE would seem to be a much better option and have more than enough power, and much better for weight/mods required to fit into the car.

As a side note, I don't think there aren't too many 72 model TA22s around, and if the chassis is in good nick, then modding it so drastically would, in my opinion, be a shame.

seeyuzz
river

[RiceburnaGTV]

Have to agree with the above,waste of time if you want it to handle man...

Alot of people seem to want to be different with these cars but dont forget that these things are few and far between these days so it already is different

No need to re invent the wheel,there is a reason most of the 22's out there have a 3tgte,4AG/Z/TE etc in them,I still think its different to have a 3SGTE or SR20 in them these days but if your set on spending big bucks get a beams and wack one of those TRD super charger kits on it

[harolto]

thanks for the reply guys
im not much of a steerer, and dont like going fast around corners (was in a bad car accident)
basicaly i wanted to be different, but now, it might not be the best idea,
the ta22 i have is very straight, paint is pretty much powder (and will get re-done) with slight surface rust where those crap rubber strips went along the doors, and fenders,
1 hole in the passenger door 50¢ piece size, and bonnet is dead (full of rust) but car is 90% stripped, and that is all the rust i found,
Norbie, your feedback was very helpful, and i live in tassie, and engineer certificate isnt much of a hassle here (cops are slow) just gotta change engine number basicaly and 99.999% of cops will think its engineered,
the main reason i didnt want an SR, is cross breading is wrong
and the thing that made me stear away the 3s was i had read they have weak blocks, and its had to find a good one??
my aim is 250+ rwkw, and this would be easly enough to get out of a 1jz, but seemed to be pushing a 3s to the limit of failure, and with good engine builders few and far between, i didnt want to have to put stronger internals in
im fairly new to engine conversion, i put a RB20 into a R31 but this was fairly straight forward, but it did show me the added costs that arnt factored into the conversion
-Jake

[EldarO]

one things for certain, 3S's dont have weak blocks.

really, no engine has a weak block, but, if the tuner doesnt know what hes doing, any motor can grenade.

Tristan of WTFAuto here in WA has gone to hell and back with the 3S, and his results speak for themselves!! might be good doing a bit of research, with his work as a good starter, 400rwhp+ is nothing to laugh at!

Elmo.

[Norbie]

Yep, a properly setup 3S will have no problem at all doing 250rwkw. I might add that a TA22 with that sort of power will be nearly undrivable on the street...

[chris davey]

I don't really like Nissan engines that much but for me going the sr20 is the most logical step. 250rwkw is the upper limit for stock internals on them so maybe detune to about 230rwkw or so. So many bolt on parts it isn't funny. Weighs less than a 1jz by a mile I would imagine.

Or another option is 13BT. Absolute piece of piss to make 250rwkw. Plus since they don't have any torque you won't need a diff upgrade j/k

That is where I would be looking. 13BT's are known for being great drag car engines as well if you aren't into cornering too much

Only reason I didn't say 3s is no RWD ones. I would think the sr20 would be a comparitively easier conversion.