Fitting a bleed valve to a 1ggte

[ATMO_BT1]

you will find it will spike which is frustrating, especially if you like to run your car on the maximum boost that is 'safe' with the modifications you have. For example if you have say an aftermarket cooler and piping kit, along with an exhaust and intake, you may want to run 13 or so psi... however this may back off to 11 or so psi [depending on the brand and style of piece used, i have heard those pneumetic (spelling sorry) valves popular on the skyline forums back off less than your run of the mill bleed tap] so you think yeah sure why not wind to to 16psi so it creeps back to 13 and then your in the position you want to be right? Wrong because obviously you can't have this because i'm guessing the stock 1ggte turbo's wouldnt enjoy 16psi to much... so really you are limited to 11psi, like me, which is frustrating.

You will also find the amount of boost creep and back off will depend greatly on the ambient temperature and even what gear you are in (higher gears like 4th load it up more so you are going to often see even more psi than you have 'set it to' for a moment or so before it creeps back down). Obviously how many people you have in the car and circumstances such as having more persons in the car are going to affect the amount of load on the car and again will change the amount of boost the car feels like hitting and falling back to... good fun guess work aint it? ahaha

Personally despite all this though, i wouldn't bother with an EBC, as i see them as a waste of money when something like a haltech full aftermarket ecu and adapter kit (to use the standard loom, big bonus if you cop an epa) is now sold drive in drive out for sometimes less than $1800 INCLUDING the fittament and tuning of the Electronic boost module for the ecu which means it has one built in. That is why rather than spending $500-800 on a decent EBC i am just saving up and going all out, killing 400 birds with one stone and going straight for the ecu with the EBC module.

Just my 2c

Jack

[Big rob]

Brett what should happen is the ball should remain seated until enough force due to pressurized air from the compressor can unseat it and allow air to flow to the waste gate. Are you sure you dont have it around the wrong way. The compressor housing should be hookedto the barb that is inline with the bolt.

ATMO BT1 i have found that in higher gears using this TURBOTECH restrictor style valve that the boost does drop off. Its only a couple of pounds but i believe this is due to the stock turbos on my 1g. I think thats what you were getting at, boost dropping off to turbo inefficincies correct?

[ATMO_BT1]

boost dropping off can also be traced back to a turbo reaching the maximum amount of pressure it was designed to create or intake inefficencies (ie intercooler) but a dodgey bleed tap is a good way to get your boost backing off real nice

I am running one of the dodgiest of the dodgey, the GFB Atomic single stage, my turbo is a high flowed t3 which is fine for over 15/16psi but it doesnt even want to hold 14 with this old bleed tap

[86TT]

Wow ....thanks for all the advice and pics everyone
much appreaciated

[broken22]

I have had trouble with Turbosmart bleed valves in the past. I would set the boost level via the srew adjustment, then the next day the car would either spike to a much higher boost level or not reach the set level. I pulled the thing apart and gave it a good clean with carby cleaner as the spring was binding due to all the black carbonlike deposits inside. After that the boost was very much more consistant

[Lambolica]

When setting the boost as mentioned above set it in a high gear like 4th and preferably on an incline slope. this will give you the maximum load compared to squirts in second gear.

Mine is set to 16psi and I pretty much only see 16 in 4th and 5th gears. That being said my gear ratios suck.

[ATMO_BT1]

thanks for the advice, il give the boost controller a clean out and il rep that lol (i think i can?) as it did work better when i first got it a year or so ago...


Lambolica, what diff ratio's do you use?

[Lambolica]

either 4.3 or 4.5 top speed in 4th is 160km/h (by dyno readout)

[ATMO_BT1]

wow those are crazy ratios! How much fuel do you go through? lol

[Big rob]

ohh and i forgot to mention, when setting the turbosmart boost gauge it will read slightly higher on the first read out. This is due to the spring not seated on the end of the bolt yet, so run once then again and the second readout will be the accurate.

[Lambolica]

Not too bad I get about 400k's to the tank, but it is a track ratio and really doesn't suit the car or the road.

I'm building a new diff with a 3.9 ratio so will be more road friendly.

But back to topic.....

[brett_celicacoupe]

Brett what should happen is the ball should remain seated until enough force due to pressurized air from the compressor can unseat it and allow air to flow to the waste gate. Are you sure you dont have it around the wrong way. The compressor housing should be hookedto the barb that is inline with the bolt.

its hooked up 100% correct

but what im still trying to point out is that once the ball bearing lifts off the seat, air is bleed from the little hole in the side.

take yours off and blow in the inlet hole and block the outlet hole and you will see what i mean

[Big rob]

THe hole is there to vent any small amount of pressure to exscape when the throttle is backed off of and the ball slams shut. If it didnt do that, pressure remaining in the lines could partially hold open the wastegate preventing quick spool and accurate boost control. Any air bleeding out of the whole is not doing so in order to control a waste gate like a bleeder style valve.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbotech-man...QQcmdZViewItem

Cheerio

[ndgcpr]

Yeah thats the one i was talking about and like i said everyone that has used it has liked it, i couldn't find it on EBAY last time i looked though but big rob has managed so they must still be around....

I also wouldn't recommend blowing in it either as spit could get in and rust the ball bearing, its not bad in cars though as the engine bay is hot enough to evapourate any mositure.

[86TT]

Thanks for all the advice guys ...i went the "shim the wastegate" route in the end , wow what a difference