Fitting a bleed valve to a 1ggte

[86TT]

I,m considering fitting the above item to my car but heard lots of bad things said about them ....boost spikes and such .

I know theres a few people on here that run them and was wondering if there ok for modest boost levels , ie 13psi ( approx ) ,

Do you also have any pics of installations ie: the best place to T one in

[Lambolica]

Get a good quality one and you will not have so many issues with boost spike.

Mine setup I have removed the tube to the wastegate on both turbos and run new piping from each corrisponding pipe to somewhere near where the O2 sensor is where the T piece is. from there the 2 pipe run inside the cabin to the bleed valve itself.

Running 13 psi I don't think boost spiking is going to be of huge concern compared to running 18-19 psi

[JustCallMeOrlando]

I have an electronic one, but if I was fitting a manual bleed valve, i'd probably do it the same. I ran the two T-pieces just above the heatshields, under the intake pipe, and mounted my solenoid (or your valve) just near my brake lines. That way, I kept enough slack in the system not to stress anything, but kept the lines somewhat short.

[Fattony]

save your money and use a cable tie lol

[ndgcpr]

well i did much the same as JCMF cept i wasted lots of piping i ran 4 pipes over to the steering strut and mounted my t pieces and valve there.

I personally don't like the idea's of bleed valves as i probably don't totally understand them i bought a valve from ebay for like 30 bucks and it works a treat, i don't doubt the bleed valve ability i just prefer these. I can't think of the name atm though so i will get back to you, the difference is that this thing is a spring loaded ball baring so it actually closes the line and prevents flow to the actuators. this means that you boost more solidly and don't get any waste gate creep. I have told a few of my mates to get one and they all love it.

[SoarerTT]

i have a turbosmart one and im running 15psi and i have had no trouble but mine has been converted to a single high mount so im not sure about the twin turbos.

ill try and post up some pics in a minute of my setup

Ryan

[SoarerTT]

heres one ill post em up one by one cause i have to shrink them

[SoarerTT]

i hope this helps you out

[SoarerTT]

the last one

[brett_celicacoupe]

ive got the same type "NGDCPR" has, the TURBOTECH type. im happy with it.

for about 2 weeks i was running the all-stock (cept FMIC and POD) gen3 1ggte on 15.5 psi. pretty insane

i didnt run the 2 feed lines from compressor housings to the bleed valve , i only used one of them and block the other. then the other outlet on the BV, i put a T in there and ran a hose to each wastegate actuator.

seemed to work okay

[EldarO]

PM CoFFee, he installed this exact thing and knows exactly how to do it.

Eldar.O.

[Big rob]

I am also running the turbotech one. Very good design as it isnt a bleed valve as such but a restrictor style. It has a ball bearing and a spring in it and the boost is adjusted by a screw in the back. The design kinda acts like a gated style boost valve eliminating boost creep. GET ONE and its only like 27 bucks.

[brett_celicacoupe]

i thought there were still a bleed valve type as there is a hole in one side off the casing?

[Big rob]

Nah, very sure that is used to allow the air behind the ball bearing to displace as not to cause any problems with its operations. See thats why you screw it in to increase boost as your restricting the air to the wastegate.

[brett_celicacoupe]

hmm, strange. i tested mine out before i used it and when i blew in it, and blocked the output nozzle, air came out of the hole.

so essentially, when the ball bearing moves off the seat, air will be bleed from the unit