Would it be hard to drill and tap a new fitting to the inlet manifold to plug the vacuum line into it's own dedicated one?
The 1UZ has 2 vacuum ports both capable of putting the MAP sensor on.
One at the front of the plenum, one at the back.
The one at the front is used for the FPR, the one at the back is normally capped.
The front also has the ISCV port, and the PowerSteering idle port, and the rear has the brake booster port.
I also need to run my heater off a vac line.
I tested putting the heater lines off the MAP sensor line, and to no surprise, the engine really didn't like me touching the heater.
So I've given the MAP sensor a dedicated port, and Tee'd the heater lines into the FPR line.
Is this an ideal solution?
Or would I be better to give the heater lines a dedicated port, and Tee the MAP sensor in with the FPR?
Cheers
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Would it be hard to drill and tap a new fitting to the inlet manifold to plug the vacuum line into it's own dedicated one?
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
Yes, that would be ze uber effort.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
I would get an adaptor for the brake booster port. mine has a little thing stepped off it for the cruse control. that would be what i would try and do, as the small change in the "huge" brake booster pipe wouldn't really effect anything, i wouldn't use the map line, and if its your last resort use the FPR line.
just my opinion
Noisy Diff and Gearbox Club of Pine Riversand you thought your car was loudThe Soarer brought to you by the letter TT
So bridge the heater lines off the brake booster line... hmm, not bad idea.
I'll give it a looksee over the week, see what will go on easy.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
mine has a little metal pipe that goes in line with the brake booster, then a small metal pipe off it. so you just cu and add it. i am sure the wrecker would have something similar somewhere on a car, i can get you a pic if you want.
Noisy Diff and Gearbox Club of Pine Riversand you thought your car was loudThe Soarer brought to you by the letter TT
I had one of them from factory, but I removed it.
Gotta find it somewhere.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Eff my ass. Remove the top half of the inlet manifold, not like you haven't done that before. Drill hole, tap hole, screw in fitting. Have nice MAP sensor line, stop being a girl.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
And there in lies the ef.Originally Posted by JustCallMeFrank
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
C'mon, not like you haven't done it a million times!
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
And there in lies the other reason why I cannot be assed.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Dude, I get what you're saying. In the grand scheme of your car though, it's a drop in the ocean. Do it, stop bitching, and be happy in the fact you have a perfect MAP line for your car. It's not like you have a big intake assembly to remove from it.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
Ok so the MAP sensor should have its own dedicated source from the inlet manifold then. I have mine teed off something at the moment. Well I actually have 2 Map sensors. The one that the wolf is using is not teed off anything but it is only a 2.5bar map sensor so reads to 22.5psi. I have a GM 3 bar map sensor that is teed off something and goes to my wideband module for datalogging. I have inputted the data for this as something like 5v=2bar, 3.33v-1bar, 1.66v=0, 0v=-1bar (I know that bit is wrong but I don’t think it would affect the measurement of positive boost) Anyway, the boost has always measured wrong. Ie. Max boost on wolf datalogger said 15.5psi or so and the wideband said 12psi or so. I assumed that my voltages were out but do you think it could be because it is teed off something?
I wasn’t real fussed about it as soon the wolf will do the datalogging but I would like to input the 3bar map into the wolf so I can tune to up to 2bar.
Thanks
Chris
In many factory situations, the MAP sensor and FPR are given the same manifold pressure source. I see this as little problem because the MAP sensor is passive (it's effectively a blocked vac line that gives a voltage output)....and the FPR is also passive enough as to not effect the resultant absolute pressure in that line which the MAP sensor reads.
However, the heater controls use the vacuum to actuate moving parts and thus affect the resultant absolute pressure in the line.
To be safe - use the FPR line, but Tee it as close to the manifold as possible so that there is minimal "shared" vac line for the FPR and MAP sensor.
nathan - shuttup and finish your own car you girl.
...... butt scratcher?!
Umm, the car is running and on the road under turbocharged power. Last time I checked, yours only made 68rwkw.
Teh UZA80 - Project Century - Remotely p00'd by association
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