1GGZE not running properly... Advice appreciated.

[mic*]

Have a 1GGZE which is stock other than the s/c pulley, and ABV mod.

Had a coolant leak which appeared to be coming from behind the water pump pulley. On good advice i was told that if the pump/seal is leaking that i needed a whole new water pump assembly.

So i set about removing the pump, which means removing almost all the peripherals and mounting brackets. Found that a rubber seal on a coolant passage between the head and a cast ally piece which mounts the power steering pump was all but missing. This was presumably the leak. So - fixed it, refit everything. Now here's the probs...

1.(minor) There is a small cast in hole in the bottom of my water pump which still lets a dribble of coolant out seemingly when the engine is cold started. So Id like to know what that is why its there and whether to keep the new water pump on order anyway.

2.(major) After all the above, the engine wont run properly. Initally, it idled fine. I took it out to test and as soon as mild accel was applied ~0 vac, it would starts to hiccup and not go anywhere. In neutral it would not rev over 2500. I thought maybe id left a sock in the supercharger, so pulled that out - No socks - put it back in. When i started it, same prob still. I pulled the vac reference off the ABV to close it so i could hear the air going through the S/C. Fine. Put the vac line back on. Pushed the throttle under the bonnet, and broom... Sounded great. Was totally puzzled tho... Drove it today, gave it some throttle, was fine a few times with up to 15psi, but probably my first WOT accel, it has all gone to shit... Overruns fine, good vac. Idles average. Light - mild load is just crap, coughs and splutters, but give it a bit more and from exactly 0 vac up to about 8psi it seems normal. Anymore, and its almost like it fuel cuts the drop is so sharp. Black smoke pours out when eng is accelerated.

Other things to note; cam cover seals where done as well, which means coils where removed. The boot on the plug lead for cylinder 5 crakced but the resistance of the lead is fine, just part of the ceramic of the plug is showing till i get the replacement. AFM was also cleaned; back cover removed, cleaned gate and internals, refit cover. Timing belt was discovered to be loose when exposed, so i retensioned it. Have checked for fault codes - nil. Am fearfully about to do the comp test...

If anyone can suggest other simple checks before i rebuild the whole F-ing motor (no 1J suggestions required ) twould be much appreciated

[TA-022]

cast hole on base of pump is reffered to as the "show-tell".

whe this weeps / drips it means there is a problem with it and most of the time means replacement time.

from what i know all water pumps have this .. my old lancer had it and it meant replacement time.

edit: just read the coil pack problem ... id say your spark is jumping before the electrode.
the missing and coughing suggests ignition system and the black smoke suggests unburnt fuel..?

id replace the boot/coil and water pump before further diagnosis. And if you plan too rebuild these will need doing anyway so its not dead moey regardless.

[Cuzzo]

Yeah my 4age has it and it was replacement time. Replace water pump to be sure.

Did you play with any of the AFM settings? Maybe when cleaning it it go into the electricals.

[brett_celicacoupe]

Q1. water pump is farked, replace it

Q2. the engine is running in limp mode. my GTE has been running like this on and off lately. hits boost but feels like a NA (ecu must pull out heaps of timing ). essentially the car goes nowwhere and runs pig rich.

check for fault codes. mine says the igniter has an intermittent issue.

reset the ecu (remove batt power for 20sec) and drive it. it should run normal and go good for the first time you boost it.


id expect youve messed with something electrical while playing with the water pump. check the CAS is my guess.

hope this helps

[mic*]

Measured the resistance of the leads at 3.17kOhms, 5.95kOhms, & 8.55kOhms for the 3-4, 2-5, & 1-6 leads respectively. Seems a bit high to me? Anyone got a waste spark setup that can verify?

Also compression range for all 6 cylinders was 160-168psi... Dunno whether that is within acceptable spec.

Thanx

[mic*]

Brett, checked CAS. Didnt remove it... Only disconnected it. Already checked that the connection was good- seems fine. Cant really remember much about how it read off the cam tho from when the cover was open... Didnt touch anything under the cover, but it was open air for an hour or two.

[mic*]

Well, there was a prob with spark jumping to the head before the electrode, but that was fixed. Now im driving it this arvo (2nd drive since i fixed the plug and all seemed ok) and the engine just straight out dies coming up to a set of lights. Wont start again at all.

ECU now shows an error code 1 - 2, one flash then two. On 3S this is RPM signal - ie distributor.

Does that mean its a CAS fault on a 1G? If so i cant figure out why. The clip was removed, but its definitely clean and contacting. The loom was moved out of the way. Could this have damaged a wire, which made the sensor progressively gave a more erroneous signal before the wire breaks and the sensor fails?

[sideshow]

maybe you got water in the cas

[mic*]

maybe you got water in the cas

So the code is a CAS?

The only treatment it got was a wipe over with a rag with some degreaser on it, and the clip pulled on and off as mentioned...

Can you give me any help as far as how to check if its stuffed? Should there be a set resistance across the terminals?

[sideshow]

to check if its stuffed is hard when the engine sort of runs

usually these things either work or dont work

u need to put an oscilloscope into the wires and see if the pulse changes

maybe yr running too much boost

try lowering boost to under 10 then remove battery terminal to reset ecu

then try driving car under 10psi see what happens

some ecus go into a sort of permanent limp mode if u hit boost cut tooo often

so u have to reset ecu to clear it

did u take black plastic cover of air flow

never do that unless airflow is playin up

slightest bump off anyhting inside the electricals can cause headaches

another problem toyotas have is the elctrical plugs on the coils small black things break and get bad connections on coil

common on 1js and under boost can make coil break down

if theres no codes and there hesitation then its either an air leak or something has happened to air flow meter

you didnt adjust the spring on it did you

i have seen too many idiot mechanics play with them in the past and usually fuk things more than fix them

u might haveto take it to an expert in the end