anyone ever seen this? pressure plate meltdown

[mrshin]

If you're using the wrong slave and a crap bearing, thereby the bearing is constantly riding with the engine, it probably explains why the bearing was killed.

[allencr]

The old bearing is OK. It's tried & proven compared to an unknown, even new one, unless you cleaned it with a pressure washer or soaked it in solvent. Dirt inside bearing - BAD, dirt outside bearing - So What.

The slave size/ID makes no difference, but its push rod could've been too long. Were you able to push on the clutch fork at least 1cm to bottom the piston in the slave? If not, when the disk wears it will bottom out and not let the clutch engage completely, also continuously loading the release/throwout bearings & crank thrust washers/bearings.
Checked the crank end float?

How'd the pedal feel? No free play at all is from the MC adjustment - clevis with lock nut on the MC's push rod that connects to the pedal. Too long blocks the MC's reservoir port, and quick clutch pedal action will trap extra fluid & not let it engage completely.

[vanman]

I've done exactly that kind of damage on my first corolla, a fairly new clutch had a burnout mishap, and was removed as a pile of powder mixed with engine oil from the bellhousing. Thought I was doing a good thing by pressure cleaning the area and replacing the engine main seal while in there, but thought the bearing looked too new and worked alright so left it there- big mistake...

When the clutch was ruined in the same fashion as yours, I found the bearing rusted tight from the cleanout and scorched where it had burnt through the clutch fingers.

Fully clean and dry everything, new bearing and grease everything every time after that - expensive lesson in both money and time for a noob at the time.

Cheers
Vanman

[Sam_Q]

I remember noticing the rod had no slack in it at all. I didn't think anything of it because I didn't know better. Much like with the "replace it when its noisey" attitude I was ignorant, I will from here will know different. Tomorrow I will jack my car up again and check this thing out, I will grind that rod down if I have to.

[fixeruperer]

whats worse if theres no slack is the brake fluid gets warm expands and puts more pressure on the rod witch places more pressure on the bearing

[Sam_Q]

hmmm, I cant see why it would get heat from anywhere

[roadsailing]

lets see where it would get heat from...

exhaust manifold.

[Sam_Q]

oh do you mean no slack when the cars not running and as the exhaust starts to heat it up the whole system would expand? call me stupid but I didnt think of that

[fixeruperer]

i have seen it happen before and if you have no clearance a lil bit more is to much already

[lunar_c]

I killed a clutch in my Swift GTi similiar to this once before (sorry no pics) .. but yes, the pressure plate fingers were doing a mexican wave .. but thats a serious ammount of heat you've got going on there.
I'm amazed it didn't make more noise..

[CrUZida]

As the fluid heats up from the exhaust it will just expand and fill the reservoir up more.

Its not a pressurised system (until you press the pedal) so heat will not have any affect.

The rod itself however will expand slightly.

[fixeruperer]

but if theres no freetravel to the mastercylinder it wont return.

[love ke70]

yes, was there freeplay on the clutch?
i had this issue when i had to change the rod in mine...after flywheel lightening. had it a little too long, and after about 3500 km it would slip under full boost.
had no freeplay on pedal, and when i unbolted the slave cylinder the clutch fork moved back a little way.
only ground the rod back about 1.5 mm and the clutch is no lovely.
i made up another 6 mm shorter, and the clutch didnt do anything, so if you go shortening the rod, only a little bit sam.
if you have pedal freeplay, your job is done

looks like its a good job i fixed my problem hey

goodluck mate