Anybody bought an MV Automatics shift box lately?

[1JZ-Rolla]

I've got the old wiring diagram for mine which doesn't show anything to do with the neutral start switch, which is apparenly why I can't engage overdrive currently.

Is anybody able to post up or email a scan or drawing of the wiring diagram supplied with theirs?

Many thanks

[sideshow]

the neut start ha snothing to do with the overdrive

overdrive works when no pwer goes to the mv box

but last time i tried to hook one of them up i spent to long and drove over it with the car

ive been told they work ok in a std car but in a conversion they sometimes have problems

but overdrive works when no power goes to either of the shift solenoids

so by turning power of to the mv box u got overdrive

another thing is i dont think many people know how these work and how their gbox will work

there is a main switch which u turn mv unit on and off
this is like overdrive switch

[brett_celicacoupe]

check that the main solenoids (sp1 and sp2 i think) have no power when you are expecting to be in overdrive. put a LED on each perhaps

if either one of the solenoids have power then the controller is not allowing overdrive.


the factory ecu expects to see the engine at 66deg (i think) before overdrive can be selected. does the shift kit have a water temp input?

[brett_celicacoupe]

drove over it with the car

picsorban

[sideshow]

solenoid wires are s1 and s2
and sl is the lockup converter

my 1uz will hit overdrive at any temp
not sure how 1js are
but only car i remmeber needs water temp for overdrive is a 7m my old 22r auto in my hilux

and some old 5m and 6ms

but even if it needs temp all u have to do is disconnect the plug on the auto box for the solenoids and it will have overdrive when the gearstick is in 3rd

most std ecus these days will bring on overdrive at after 50 or 60 kph

but when u fit the mv box u have to remove the gbox wiring from the ecu so the mv box has full control

so temp and speed will not affect what gear you are in

it all depends on where the shifter is

ive been making shift units that do the same job as the mv box

but more simplier and these actually work for me

[1JZ-Rolla]

Sideshow, I appreciate you don't have much love for the MV unit but it's already installed, and will stay, as i'm not paying for another unit until i've exhausted all avenues with this one. It has only been running for a week, a bit soon to give up already

I understand that overdrive is selected when NO power is going to S1 or S2, and I am 100% certain that the MV shift box is receiving and sending no power from the gear inputs or to the solenoids when the overdrive switch is activated.

My problem appears to somehow be related to some residual current to S2, being a peak & hold type solenoid of course means it take two-tenths of fck all to keep them energised.
Shifting into neutral then back to "D" (or third) engages overdrive no problem, I just need to tie together the relationship between doing this & dropping all current to S2, so that I can make it simply happen with the switch only.

So do you have the wiring diagram from the one you ran over then???

[sideshow]

oh ok sorry i didnt realise u have one but are having problems

the problem i had is i was not gettin enough power to the solenoids to actually select gears

it seams the unit cannot suply enough voltages for working properly

try this

on the wire that is the 12v input to turn the unit on

put a switch in series

so when u turn switch on it turns on the mv unit and selects 1st 2nd and 3rd

when yr driving have switch onthen when u want overdrive turn switch off
this should turn opff power to s1 and s2

if this still doesnt work the unit is shit

i dont mean to bad other products but too many people have had problems

another prob is mv do not make the unit
someone else does and they sell it
so gettin help for it is abit hard

the unit runs on 7 wires so its abit hard to fuk the installation

thats shifting to neut then back to drive is very common problem
mv should know about it but they wont do anyhting bout it

i rang them afew times tryin toi diagnos but was hard to get help fast
as i am mobile and have to charge by the hour
so i could not waste too long on it

how much do these cost

maybe u need capacitors of something to remove the residual current which im pretty sure it comes form the inhibitor wiring

ive read too many faults with this unit on these forums to even think about buying one

its a piss easy unit to make so i dont know why they have problems

if there was a market for them i could easily get my model made on a production line and work properly for way less

[1JZ-Rolla]

Just to drag this up from the dead for anyone thinking of purchasing the MV shift controller box.... the solution to the issue I had above was easy, simply rewiring the inhibitor (neutral start) switch on the gearbox to only have power when NOT in overdrive (instead of 12V ignition) has made the unit perform faultlessly. A minor oversight in the original wiring diagram which Mike at MV has since rectified.

I could not be happier with my setup now, all in all it is a simple and effective solution to not having the factory Toyota ECU

Anybody interested in further details on wiring one of these up to a 1JZ gearbox, including which factory wire colours are which, just let me know, i've recorded all the details.

Cheers
Phil