PRETTY PLEASE SOMEONE?! I GOT 5 MINS?!!!
Just need the plug question answered now...
I HAVE 1HOUR TO WORK THIS OUT!Okay, so ive just taken my rolla from an auto to a manual...
Ive been left with 1 to many kick down cables...
So ive removed the kick down cause in theory, or atleast my theory i wont need it
After that ive been left with a plug that wont fit anywhere... Im geussing when the car was auto, this would tell it wether to start or not, so that you couldnt start in drive or reverse? Also maybe reverse lights? The new slot for the plug to go is much simpler, maybe reverse only?
But ive also snapped some little plugs off a thing coming out of the thermo housing. Wondering do i need to glue them back on and put it back together or can i seal it off and not worry??
Im also left with some plugs that seem to come from the starter, (cant see without getting underneath), they have simply come dissconnected from the relay that came from. But the relay has 3 empty pins, and i have two plugs. Anyone know which pins these go to? Im gonna get my test light out and have a look but any help on making this easier is much appreciated...
Cheers,
Jase
PRETTY PLEASE SOMEONE?! I GOT 5 MINS?!!!
Just need the plug question answered now...
I don't exactly know, but the large spades look like for the inhibitor switch, and the 2 smaller pins look like for the reverse lights...
But on mine it was different, mine had a large connector on the front of the gearbox for the Neutral Start Switch...and the reverse connector was built into that.
Sorry can't be anymore help.
Kind Regards,
Kurt.
1998 ER34 ニッサン スカイラインGT- T
RB25DET 5 Speed Manual | Blitz SE Return Flow FMIC | Greddy Profec II Spec B BC | Apexi N1 Turbo Back Exhaust
Do i need the lil blue plug that taps into the thermo housing? Cause i cant seem to glue it bag together properly? Is it just for the choke? Nesecarry at all???
Cheers,
Jase
The relay wires check if one is earth/ground and see if the other one is power either constant or when ign on. You will need to read up on relays on the net even on toymods there is a thread on a starter relay have a look at that should be pretty easy to understand, if not reply back.
its just for emissions stuff, dont worry about itOriginally Posted by Smokey228
just leave it as is, no need to plug it up, just plug the hoses that connected to it.
just about every one ive ever seen is broken off.
I have a Crown
Awesome news!
Okay, with the big plug, the two smaller ones are reverse. The two larger ones im geussing are inhibitor switches? Do i just bridge them? Cause its not seeming to work. Car wont crank over...
Jase
Yeah as mentioned that blue thing is a BVSV (bimetal vacuum switching valve)..simply clicks on and connects the hoses together at a certain temp. I got a mint one from a wrecker, but when mine was broken, didnt seem to make any difference at all. Just plugged the lines.
And yes just bridge the two termals with spade plugs and a bit of wire.
Kind Regards,
Kurt.
1998 ER34 ニッサン スカイラインGT- T
RB25DET 5 Speed Manual | Blitz SE Return Flow FMIC | Greddy Profec II Spec B BC | Apexi N1 Turbo Back Exhaust
I tried bridging the plug. Still doesnt seem to start. I cant understand what the problem is. Doesnt attempt to crank what so ever...??? Any ideas???
Gonna try jump start it today, perhaps isolate the problem to the starter motor. Could be that those two wires are in the wrong spots or something...
Cheers,
Jase
I remember it was clicking yesterday. In one combination of things. Just cant remember which combinationIf i cut the two wires leading to that switch, and just solder them together is this bad? Or should i plug them together with a fuse inbetween or something???
Also, i cant find my test light and i havent got a multi-metre that works. So if i take a more detailed photo of the starter relay will someone be able to ID which plugs go where??? I cant seem to work out which ones + and -...
Cheers,
Jase
EDIT: +rep has rained from the... me...Cheers again
you need a multimeter.
on your relay, there is a diagram ont he side, and numbers. there will also be numbers on the pins on the bottom
one wire is ground and comes off the switching coil
another wire is power and comes from ignition.
the other two wires..... one might go to power and one might go to the starter solenoid. it is possible they have just cut into the original wire to do that...
87and 87A? are basically the same connection.. so you only have two spades to worry about on the relay.. look at it's diagram ont he side.
once the relay is hooke dup correctly, then you should be able to bridge the auto inhibitor spades (the big ones) and it should work... (also good place to take kill switch from)
the inhibitor spades and the relay are all in the starter solenoid circuit.. so it all has to be done before it works.
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
YAY! I got it goingand it drives too
lol
Annoying thing after all this was that i used the starter motor off the other car, cause i figured it was in better condition
Well, it wasnt. It was p00 and didnt work, so i swapped em over, tested em. And put the old one back in. Got up and went first goSoooo annoying...
Everyone has been mad help but, i used a 15amp fuse to link the inhibitor switch. And put two spades onto the reverse light switch. So all is good in down town terrey hills!
Cheers,
Jase
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