Flasher wiring diag - info pls.

[Andrew162]

PART No./DESCRIPTION 68242BLBlister Pack
12 Volt 3 Pin Electronic Flasher


Above is the (stock) flasher currently in the ST162.

PART No./DESCRIPTION 68248BLBlister Pack
12 Volt 3 Pin L.E.D Flasher with Pilot
Suitable for vehicles fitted with L.E.D signal lamps. The flasher unit automatically detects the low current draw of the L.E.D lamps and operates at a constant rate. Non load sensitive type with pilot function. Solid state electronics. Maximum load: 20 amp
Minimum load: 1 amp



Above is the suggested replacement flasher can for the new LED globes I have installed.

(both pics courtesy of the Narva website)


So here is my dilemma, and where I call upon the collective genius of the wiring gurus out there.... what would be the best way to patch in the LED flasher can into the same spot as the stock flasher can's pin-out's? I wanted to join the Pilot + Indicator Switch (P+L) together so that it would be doing the same job as "L" (Indicator Switch / Pilot) on the stock unit.

Basically I need all the info I can get on making this new LED flasher work from the stock pin-out's. I have made jumper leads to connect pin-out's to flasher can, now I just need to know how it can work.

Many thanks in advance for any useful help.

[bansheebuzz]

you just replace the flasher can you have with the correct solid state unit for led use. Plug in and away you go

[Andrew162]

unfortunately it's not that easy. I can't find a direct plug-in replacement LED unit for this stock flasher can. the LED unit that I have now is the closest I could get. I'm still trying to find one that will do the same job (pin-for-pin) as the stock unit.

[horse]

if you cant find a direct plug in, get the socket that might be available for it and then just do some wiring to make your own plug and play adaptor. a hell of a lot easier then trying to find a direct plug in IMO

[Dale]

Does the pilot need to be connected? Isn't it just a second wire coming out to run the hazards in differently wired configs?

[BradW]

Assuming the first pic is what you have now and the second pic is what you want, connect it as follows.
X from second pic to B from first pic.
L from second pic to L from first pic.
E from second pic to E from first pic.
P from second pic leave disconnected as the pilot lights (indicators on the dash) should already be connected to the L.

Hope this makes sense.

[horse]

without checking a factory schematic, but the pilot in the first pic, would control the bulbs and the indicator lights in your dash display. thats what i gather anyhow.

therefore the second pic uses the second pilot to control the flashing on your dash.

just try and connect those pins as BradW says, and see if the dash lights flash or not. if not then you might need to trace that wire back for the second pilot on the LED flasher.

Cheers

[Dale]

Reading the new replies now knowing what the pilot is for and thinking more thoroughly about it, the pilot lights won't be needed.. I know this because if you hook up an immobiliser to flash the indicators on toyotas then the pilot lights on the dash flash also, it's a part of the one circuit.

So just diregard the pilot and connect it as BradW has said, I'm willing to be it will work. Just connect the earth to the chasis, there should be some bracketry around there which you can use for that.

[Andrew162]

wow, cheers for all the replies guys, better response than I first thought.

ok so brad and dale (or anyone), if I'm hooking up those wires via jumper leads as you've suggested do I need to hook in that earth lead to an earthing point on the chassis? as you can see the earth on the new LED can isn't a pin-out, but an external lead from the top of the can. do I make a doubler of sorts and hook this into the E point of the plug AND earth it into the chassis as well?

[horse]

the original wire would have led to an earth anyway, so u can plug that earth cable into the current socket, but i'd just earth the wire off the LED Flasher straight to the body and then wire up the other two wires accordingly. less fuss.

[Andrew162]

fair enough I'll give this a bash tomorrow night, and see how I go... hope I don't go blowing fuses in the process..

btw, are the hazard lights switch and the indicator switch hooked up off the same 7.5A TURN fuse?

[BradW]

Hazards will have a seperate fuse because the flashers work on ignition and the hazards work on battery.

[Andrew162]

thanks to everyone for their helpful replies. got it working properly today (no blown fuses ) and the flasher can is going at a more sedate 80 flashes p/min rather than the schizo 140 flashes p/min of the stock flasher due to lack of resistance. I'm rather happy with the end result, and moreso for everyone's helpfulness here.