yep thats basicaly the specs of my motor, maybe slightly higher comp pistons but? cant remeber have to check still standard toyota gze's but. got tuned on friday 190kw, 500nm, 17psi.
I think that my poor and hard-done by 4A is getting a bit long in the tooth, so it might be time for a freshen up. What does everyone recommend as good budget performance rebuild gear? I was thinking:
8.9:1 Toyota pistons
ACL RACE series bearings
ARP bolts (maybe)
ACL or toyota genuine gasket and seals kit
Balance crank/flywheel/rods
Block acid-dipped
Re-grind crank/bore if needed
Reccomendations? It's destined to be a street engine, maybe turbo, maybe SC, I'm still deciding, but around 15psi. Occasional use at hill-climbs/super springs etc...
Cheers, RM.
yep thats basicaly the specs of my motor, maybe slightly higher comp pistons but? cant remeber have to check still standard toyota gze's but. got tuned on friday 190kw, 500nm, 17psi.
what else are you running on your motor? Sounds pretty beasty...I think the early GZE pistons are 8:1, the later smallport pistons are 8.9:1. I was leaning towards them to make the engine more efficient, especially if I go turbo, try and get rid of as much lag as possible.
RM.
Edit: and how much did all the bits cost you?
FYI,
I changed the pistons in my 20V turbo from the early model 8.1 to late model 8.9 ones,
and that made boost arrive 1500rpm earlier.
The higher your compression ratio, the less boost you have to run to make power,
The better your off boost response is,
and the sooner it will make good boost, ( less lag )
yea ive got the later gze pistons so it must be 8.9:1, im running a gt2871r on a short runner steampipe manifold i made myself. haltech e6k running haltech twin output coils, wasted spark setup. 450x300x76 just jap cooler, 2.5inch cooler piping, 2.5inch exaust. tuner said there was more power in at that boost level, but he decided to leave it just slightly on the rich side.
and it spins the wheels when it comes on boost in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear!
The specs you have listed are spot on. No need to do much more to make good power. 200+ rwkw with the right external bits.
Might suggest a port job and some cams in you can budget for that.
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
Imagine what another 100+rwkw makes life likeOriginally Posted by cri_ag
![]()
300+rwkw 4agte http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/for...wkw-4agte.html
haha the stock diff doesent like it at this power level!
I've got WADE 267s, so the cams are taken care ofThe other bright idea that came to mind today was a 7A-GZE, since I'm building a motor anyways, I might as well get some more CC. Plus, the SC14 doesn't really like high-RPM, so if I loose a bit of top-end possiblities, it's not such a biggie...I'm still teaching myself all the 7A foibles, but I've heard they have a low CR with a GE head (I'd use a bigport) Does anyone know what CR the 8.9 GZE pistons would give in a 7A, and also what a decent set of rods would be worth?
RM.
With a 20V head and 8.9 pistons I measured it out to 9.03:1 compression ratio.Originally Posted by mullett
Still searching rods but $180 US plus freight each is around where they are.
- KE70 Corolla Dx -
- 500hp+ 7AGTE 20V turbo -
- MRS/Hayabusa turbo **sold**
- TA63 3TGTE project in the build -
So 8:1 early GZE pistons might be the go for a boosted one then...hang on...the 20V head has smaller squish chamber than the bigport one yeah?
RM.
I haven't done enough with the 16V to say either way.
- KE70 Corolla Dx -
- 500hp+ 7AGTE 20V turbo -
- MRS/Hayabusa turbo **sold**
- TA63 3TGTE project in the build -
Argo list 7A rods, Pauter also do them
good stuff! I'll keep reading...does anyone know the rough difference in combustion chamber volume between the two heads?
RM.
Bookmarks