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Thread: 18RG / 3TGTE / 2TG alternator upgrade - 85amp EA Falcon

  1. #1
    MR 18RG Chief Engine Builder The Witzl's Avatar
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    Jul 2005

    Default 18RG / 3TGTE / 2TG alternator upgrade - 85amp EA Falcon

    For all those who know they need a bigger alternator than the piss-weak 50A job that Toyota fitted to your 18R or 2T/3T variant engine... this is the guide for you!

    EA Falcon 85Amp Alternator Upgrade

    You will need:
    • Alternator from EA Falcon (careful, there are 3 different sizes!)
    • Spare mounting bracket for your engine, unless you dont mind hacking up your only one...
    • A bench grinder. Angle grinder will work, but will be very time consuming
    • New fan/alternator belt
    A recent trip to Pick'n'Payless wreckers showed me that EA falcons run an alternator that is close enough to those on an 18R or 2T/3T engine that it would bit with a little bit of effort.... and that the EA alternators are all internally regulated, with amperage output varying from 65Amp to 85Amp!!

    EA on the left, 18RG on the right:

    Of course taking the 85Amp one is the primo choice. Be sure to take with you the mounting bolts and plug for the regulator too.

    The part numbering on the top of the alternator tells you the amp rating:

    When comparing the EA alternator to an 18R-G alternator, you'll notice that the foot spacing (the feet at which the alternator pivots) is slightly smaller on the EA one.

    EA foot spacing = 70mm
    18R foot spacing = 75.5mm

    You can see this here:

    The solution to this, of course, is to grind some metal!!!

    You must only grind from the rear mounting tabs though - the pulley is in the right position if the front tabs are not touched.

    Take about 4mm or so off the rear facing edge of the mounting bracket for the alternator, and then about 1mm off the inside face of the rear foot of the EA alternator. You could just take 5mm off the mounting bracket though...

    Modified Bracket on the right:

    Also, you will need to grind a bit of an angle to allow the alternator to pivot towards the engine, note the ground bracket on the left

    Now comes the fun part.... bolt the modified bracket to your engine, and you'll find (as i did on the 18RG) that the EA alternator bolt must go in from the rear, as the front foot/tab is threaded - but there is a freaken engine mount in the way!!

    To get around this just bolt the top bolt of the alternator bracket into the block by hand and leave the second/bottom bolt out, this allows you to rotate the bracket enough to get the bolt in from the rear. Now you can do up the bottom bracket bolt into the block, and tighten it and the top bracket bolt up... but leave the alternator bolts loose enough to allow fitment of the new belt.

    Now there is a LOT less adjustment with the EA alternator than there was with the stock one.... so for me measuring the correct belt length was important. Im not sure how this affects T series engines though.
    There was only about 5-10mm of movement at the alternator's adjustment arm mount (the long swing arm thingy), cos the alternator is bigger than the 18R one and cant get as close to the block, leaving only 5-10mm of play before reaching the end of travel on the top adjustment arm mount.

    Elongating the holes on the adjusting arm mount would help, but i managed to *just* get away without doing this - using an 825mm belt.

    EDIT - recently changed the 825mm belt to a 815mm belt. It still fits, you have to remove the water pump pulley to get it on though. MUCH better tension adjustment.

    After you have sorted out these issues of mounting and belt placement... unplug and throw out your external voltage regulator.
    I ensured that mine met a fine end with a large hammer.

    The body loom side of the external voltage regulator plug is a 6 pin jobbie, and you want two of those wires for the Bosch's internal regulator:

    S - voltage sense (battery)
    L - charge light

    Note my dodgy temporary wiring... it is not recomended to be this dodgy!

    Then hook up the main power wire, i recommend upgrading to something a little beefier than the stock one...... and you are done, save for the usual things you should be doing when installing an alternator...
    ...... butt scratcher?!

  2. #2
    Toymods Club Member #194 Conversion King Lambolica's Avatar
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    Jul 2005

    Default Re: 18RG / 3TGTE alternator upgrade - 85amp EA Falcon

    Note: This doesn't work as listed on an 18R-C

    Solution to be posted
    Beige.... The new Black!!!

  3. #3
    MR 18RG Chief Engine Builder The Witzl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005

    Default Re: 18RG / 3TGTE alternator upgrade - 85amp EA Falcon

    Here is some info courtesy of w810sc.....

    This guide also works for a 2T-G!

    hey fellas,
    I did this to the 2T-G. A couple of things i have done to achieve this:

    - Take off the pully from you standard alternator and put in on the EA making sure they line up with the other pullies. Use washers if needed.

    - Grind the lower standard 2T-G alternator bracket so that the alternator is as close to the block as possible.

    - Modify the EA upper alternator bracket to clear the lower radiator hose.

    I didn't need to buy another belt as mine had enough deflection to keep it tight.

    maximum deflection with belt on the alternator:

    minimum deflection:

    Modified EA upper alternator bracket:

    Modified 2T-G lower alternator bracket:

    Picture of how close i got it to the block:

    As for the wiring on the alternator, this is what i did:
    B - this is connected to the battery
    S - this is connected to the B
    L - this is connected to the charge light
    ...... butt scratcher?!

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