That is really strange.
Maybe they gave you a clutch plate that was for another car?
A couple of years back when I changed my clutch I bought a "Heavy Duty Clutch Kit" for my 4AGE/C52. When I installed it however there was a serious problem of the pressure plate not lifting the clutch plate away from the flywheel enough and so it was impossible to change gears.
This became more apparent when I took it apart again and saw that as soon as I tightened the pressure plate bolts, the springs for the pressure plate moved inwards to the point that the throwout bearing couldn't push it any more inward.
I came to the conclusion that I needed a thinner clutch plate for it but as I was on a time limit I settled for another Toyota genuine pressure plate (which worked fine). I've still got the pressure plate and I want to put it on but I need to source a thinner clutch plate.
Can anyone shed some light on why this happened and/or where I can get a thinner clutch plate from?
"In the beginning, the universe was created. This has made a lot of people angry and has widely been regarded as a bad move." -HHGG
Is your flywheel stepped?? If so, what size is the step?
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.1
I don't think that it is. I dug up an old old photo from when we first fitted the clutch.
You can see how flat the springs sit, we didn't think much of it at the time...
"In the beginning, the universe was created. This has made a lot of people angry and has widely been regarded as a bad move." -HHGG
And here's one of the new pressure plate and the old pressure plate with a totally shagged clutch.
"In the beginning, the universe was created. This has made a lot of people angry and has widely been regarded as a bad move." -HHGG
I thought that the fingers were meant to be flat on a correctly setup push type clutch?
If they dip in then the step or clutch plate is too thick so it won't disengage easily or fully.
If they point out then the clutch plate is too thin/worn or the step is non-existant or not large enough. Also if they point out too excessively it also indicates that the clamp force will be reduced.
Was your throw out bearing moving enough to disengage the clutch? i.e. was the rest of the setup in good order like the clutch master cylinder, lines, slave cylinder, pedal adjustment etc.
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.1
I rebuilt the slave cylinder and the master cylinder seemed okay. As I said, it was worth noting that I used a Genuine pressure plate with that same (new) clutch plate and it all worked fine.
No amount of pedal adjusment allowed us to even get the clutch to disengage. Perhaps a wider throwout bearing could be used?
Last edited by Talasas; 07-02-2007 at 05:24 PM.
"In the beginning, the universe was created. This has made a lot of people angry and has widely been regarded as a bad move." -HHGG
It is a noticeable difference in that second pic between the thicknesses of those two clutch plates.
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.1
Yeah, the old one was severely worn. It still bothers me simply because I know that the pedal adjustment and such made no difference.
Something wasn't right, it's just I'm not sure what. On the side, something I'd like to know, is it common to have to make major changes to you pedal and master cyl to acoomodate a heavy duty clutch?
"In the beginning, the universe was created. This has made a lot of people angry and has widely been regarded as a bad move." -HHGG
I know certain early corollas like ke20 with 3k or 4k engines if you mismatch the different thickness sandwich plates you can cause a simular problem.I would take the disc and pressure plate back to the place you got it and have the numbers checked. Other than that I sugest you try it again and make sure you have not got anything wrong in the setup. Also check the height of the thrust bearing against the old one as I have been given wrong height bearings in the past.
Junk that pressure plate, or put washers/spacers between it and the flywheel.
When it isn't mounted & isn't something that needs a 'stepped' flywheel surface, the distance beItween the cover's mounting surface & the friction surface should be 1/2 of the disk's thickness. It is assembled wrong.
Last edited by allencr; 08-02-2007 at 03:40 AM.
Assuming you clutch kit is for an AE92/3 then there are 2 fairly different throwout bearings available. Repco dont even know what bearing will fit your car even if you give them the year. Last 2 times i have done clutches i have needed to take my old bearing down to get the right one matched up.
Also, the fingers should have a slight angle on them, not be totally flat like they appear. They should angle out also, not in.
Since you said it was fine with the stock plate then maybe your clutch is not for your motor/box combo.
- LeeRoy
Daily Driver: Red Ae93 Project: My TA22 - now with 3s-gteD is for Disco, E is for Dancing
Yeah, I read this today on another forum, supposedly the AE93 came with two very different throwout bearings. Perhaps I had the thinner one combined with the clutch kit that needed the thick bearing. Interesting.
"In the beginning, the universe was created. This has made a lot of people angry and has widely been regarded as a bad move." -HHGG
Or perhaps I was given the shorter one and need a new clutch :/
Bugger.
"In the beginning, the universe was created. This has made a lot of people angry and has widely been regarded as a bad move." -HHGG
did you machine the flywheel when you changed the clutch? How worn was the flywheel surface (if the clutch disc was that worn then I can imagine it was quite worn). I would definitely being checking the flywheel step, it should be about 0.5mm, it doesn't sound like much, but it makes a big difference to the position of the pressure plate fingers. I was using the same pressure plate on my 4AGE, I had no issues with it.
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