I had 105rwhp with a stock rebuild of an 18r-gu with an EFI conversion. microtec mt4 (old version), extractors and some basic port work.
Hey guys,
Im not to far away from dropping my RG in and I dont have a dyno near me and i sort of want an idea of what sort power i can possibly make. I dont expect anyone to be able to tell me how much power i have so i thought it would be cool to have all you guys with RG's to put up what you have done to your motor and the power it makes. Its up to you whether you put kw or hp and if its at the flywheel or wheels...
Edit: Also any tips on how to help rebuild an 18RG so us guys who havnt done one before can get the most out of our engines would be great...
Thanks...
Last edited by Gunna; 02-02-2007 at 11:55 AM.
I had 105rwhp with a stock rebuild of an 18r-gu with an EFI conversion. microtec mt4 (old version), extractors and some basic port work.
Hello.
Rebuilt 18R-G (9.8:1 pistons) with GEU manifolds and Haltech E6X, 90rwhp thanks to a crappy hall-effect sensor giving dodgy readings. In reality it should be doing 110rwhp.
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
rebuilt with 9.7:1 pistons (20thou oversize), 88253 head, EFI intake, electronic ignition, stock ECU
80rwkW
...... butt scratcher?!
Extractors, Exhaust, EFI with Link ecu, electronic ignition, Hot air intake, 98 octane....
Just under 80rwkw
152bhp with 9.7:1 comp 45mm webbers long duration cams "race spec" ported head with matched manifolds.
152hp at the wheels?
have you taken it down the quarter?
Some pretty good RG's out there by the sound of it. Even if anyone dosnt have the power there engine makes you can still put up what you have done to your RG. Its interesting to know what sort of work you guys have done...
Cheers...
If that was the motor I sold you, the pistons were 9.7:1, but the head was shaved down 40 thou, and the dizzy had a reluctor sensor (22RE item). Good to see she had some go though, wish I had have known that my alternator was bung, would have kept the motor and still be driving the 23.Originally Posted by Norbie
Cheers, Owen
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
unknown service history - in the car when i bought it 2 yrs ago now
carbies need a rekitting and proper tune - were running on the rich side
compression had 140-140-90-130
so yeah not the best but i was happy considering all.
note: dyno day 2yrs ago
Black Betty >HERE!<
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(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
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Dats pretty good TA022 for a motor which is down on No. 3 something fierce. Did you identify if it was a valve, rings, piston or gasket that was the problem??
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
Yep that was your old engine. I couldn't get the reluctor to work properly with the Haltech so I ended up using an 18R-C dizzy converted to Hall Effect. It works better but still not good. I've given up on distributors now, I'm going to mount a trigger wheel on the crank and run a waste-spark setup - I recommend anyone else running full engine management on an 18R-G do the same!Originally Posted by o_man_ra23
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
nah never id'd the issue .... only a month to go before 1ggte goes in then ill prob slowly rebuild the RG possibly into a EFI N/A weapon. loooong way from that build though LOL
Black Betty >HERE!<
(\__/)
(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination.
Maybe try points in the meantime Norbs, they are a PITA, but they work, and are simple.
Cheers, Owen
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
Seconded.Originally Posted by Norbie
My Megasquirt-II is giving me similar griefs, unsure of the full reason yet, but the above solution is the best option.
My thoughts are that the signal moves in relation to crank position as RPM changes, due to chain and gear slop.
You gotta remember that the rotational movement goes:That's a few places that can pick up sloppy movement. On a stock system its not so much of a drama as there is no "error filtering", but on an aftermarket system it has tolerances for allowable signals to occur - if the signal occurs outside of the tolerance the signal is disregarded as erroneous.
- Crank
- crank chain gear
- lower chain
- lower chain tensioner
- aux cam gear
- dissy drive worm gear
- dissy shaft worm gear
- dissy pickup
...... butt scratcher?!
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