Tips for my high comp turbo gen 3 3sge

[The Real Roadrunner]

joshstix was running 19psi with stock ign and didnt have a prob but that was with lower static c/r 10.3 and 13psi should be fine with a smaller gap.

[6BOOST]

There are a few things you need to think about when turbocharging an NA engine

The engine will detonate at its torque peak, which is also where peak cylinder pressure is.

Ways to reduce the cylinder pressure or help control detonation with high compression are:

- Bigger camshafts/more duartion
- Cam gears
- Short runner intake manifold
- My favourite, well designed exhaust manifold and bigger turbo

The bigger you make the turbine side of the turbo system, and the better than manifold is designed to lower back pressure, the less chance you will have with detonation. While I'm happy for you to prove me wrong, I Personally don't think you'll make anywhere near 250whp on 11psi of boost, a similarly modified SR20 turbo engine only makes that sort of power on 20psi, I'd expect maybe 160-180hp with that turbo.

Tuning will be critical, I would be going a better computer than microtech, but if you do, get a very VERY good tuner pressing the buttons on the dyno, high comp and turbo's are not happy partners. Oh, and I highly recommend SHell V Power Racing 100 octane fuel, worth about 4 degrees of timing over 98ron.

6BOOST

[trd3sg]

thanks for all the above advice people - i know its been a long time but the project was put on hold for a while due to work pressures \ other project.

the manifold originally made had to be rejigged due to the angle of the head and radiator clearance - this is being sorted but i will be replacing some of the long radius bends with short ones to cut a long story short.

i have also replaced the s54 with a viscous lsd e153 from an mr2 - which should hopefully help with the traction issues im going to be facing.

6boost - thanks for the heads up - i understand what you;re saying with respect to pinging at peak cylinder pressure, and that was another thing I thought about over the last 6 months (hehe who says taking too long doesnt help) - the solution for mind is to use the fourth aux output on the lt10s im currently running to switch a water injection setup just before peak torque as depicted by dyno (once the gradient on the graph starts to skyrocket basically) and in that way lower intake temps and help with atomisation. This is i guess a "ghetto" way of avoiding detonation and will only patch it up, so if i see that intake temps are starting to become a worry, ill be sourcing a gt30 ball bearing turbo with a 0.70 front wheel to ensure efficiency - especially given the higher static compression ratio of the oem gen3.

The other thing is that whilst i would love to lower the dynamic compression by shoving in a set of lumpier cams in, the budget does not stretch that far right now with this project, and im relying on a VERY HEALTHY tune to get the inputs correct without having to factor in big duration to absorb the difference.

as for power - you may be right, but i might just add that in its current N/A form, with NO mods bar the cat back exhaust and the microtech of course, it has made 147 fwhp - and thats not an inflated figure because ive cross checked the inputs on the dyno dynamics print out and they are actually conservative.

Generally speaking if im adding 10psi of pressure to atmospheric, im expecting at the very least a 50% power increase, which the motor should take comfortably - so converting 147fwhp (say 180-185 conservative flywheel hp), that would take flywheel horspower to 270-275 - assuming a 20% drivetrain loss (conservative as well for a fwd), it should make 220 fwhp minimum - but this is all speculative i guess so better to wait for the figures than talk shit now hehe

thanks once again guys - much appreciated and will update thread once its completed

*EDIT* - one other thing im having dramas with is where to source the turbo feed from - im a little hesitate to use the hex feeds off the block because of the angled position of the motor in fwd format - i also dont particularly want to take it from where the standard oil pressure gauge plugs into on the back of the head, but that seems like the best option right now, and then plumbing the oil pressure sender into the block. Any other ideas please ?

Mick

[off-road]

We use oil pressure sender port in head for turbo feed with no problems.

[abently]

another thing i noticed, your going to be using the stock gen3 ignitor and coil?

with the higher compression, and the turbo, it might not be enough, probably won't know until you do it.

That is true.

Iridium plugs need a lot less energy to spark compared to OEM plugs (and as an additional benefit have a wider specific heat range), so just get some in the standard gap and heat range and you should be fine.

[trd3sg]

motor already has iridiums in there which is good

im gonna be using the x4 ignition module too with direct fire so shouldnt have a drama with this.

Cheers fellas

*EDIT* - should also mention ill be using magnacor custom leads which should help the overall voltage drop issue a little