Intercooler piping...protecting from heat?

[Mr Ed]

Ive made a ghetto sprayer setup on my 31 works great, ended up using a washer bottle and squirter, it can run 5 mist jets, works out at using 18ml a second, the mist jets can be bought from bunnings etc-, just make sure u get a one way valve if the sprayers are lower than the bottle as you will gravity drain the tank when its not in use.

How would a one way valve stop this without also stopping the entire system from flowing??

What sort of jets did you use? I used the micro garden spray jets and they let way too much water through....so much so that pressure wouldnt build with the 2 washer pumps I was using and it would pretty much just dribble out.

Did you try it with just a washer pump(or several)??

[deviant]

yea it is fibreglass.
water? haha.. i squirt my engines with a hose and it doesnt bother them, so a little rain wont bother it either..
i'm making a custom fibreglass w2a core, but it'll be close to the original i/c vent holes, thats why i want to open the other side so the eng heat still has somewhere to go. if i wasnt trying to keep the lil feral looking stock.... then it'll have a big mofo vented eng lid on it.

i used to have a small aluminium heat sheild between the engine and i/c on the feral when it was gze'd.

Interesting....I am actually toying with the idea of moving my air filter even further forward than that....like between the gearbox and firewall.

I like the look of those backward facing vents some people make...the mini ones on the side bits are cool to!

[TA-022]

Replacement boot lid ftw!

dont know what under lid space is like (i recon like next to nothing) but i recon maybe a small sheet tin / alum defuser under the motor to direct air into the engine bay from below the car.

Then add to this better lid venting (read: enlarging) with; if you can fit it a fan to promote flow.

And if its fibreglass to start with then there shouldnt be any legalities either in replacement fibreglassing.

I think bar going to a w2a you need to look at the whole getting the hot air out of the bay.

[deviant]

Replacement boot lid ftw!

dont know what under lid space is like (i recon like next to nothing) but i recon maybe a small sheet tin / alum defuser under the motor to direct air into the engine bay from below the car.

Then add to this better lid venting (read: enlarging) with; if you can fit it a fan to promote flow.

And if its fibreglass to start with then there shouldnt be any legalities either in replacement fibreglassing.

I think bar going to a w2a you need to look at the whole getting the hot air out of the bay.

Im not sure a diffuser is going to help to be honest...or it might help but be hard work for the gains....the shape of the MR2 creates a low pressure area over the top of the engine lid so already draws air out on its own. Apparently if your lid isnt latched and you drive off it will end up opening on its own because of the low pressure area! So going from that opening the right hand side of the engine lid should see a good improvement.

So far my plans are:

Wrap exhaust manifold (looks like a pain in the arse to get off though!)

Wrap 'cold' side of the intercooler piping

When I get brave..Open out the other side of the lid and look in to a fan.

[feral4mr2]

i wouldnt use a fan. the side eng bay fan will help clear hot air at standstill (like it's designed), and IMO you'll find a fan on the vent will restrict air flow when moving.

[Adsport]

making an adaptor plate from fibreglass or some other material to insulate the whole inlet manifold from the head thus stopping heat transfer from the head to the inlet manifold (feel how hot the inlet manifold is after a good run), would be far more benifitial (<spelling?) than disconnecting the coolant lines from the TB.

you mean a phenolic spacer? its like a resin composite material that does just that. theyve popped up on ebay for bigport motors (AW11gze compat).

i cant help but think that theres so much heat milling around in the engine bay of AW11 that all those things will make such an incramental difference that it may not offset the cost of setting it up.

maybe an airbox with a cold air feed would help.

[Adsport]

Im not sure a diffuser is going to help to be honest...or it might help but be hard work for the gains....the shape of the MR2 creates a low pressure area over the top of the engine lid so already draws air out on its own. Apparently if your lid isnt latched and you drive off it will end up opening on its own because of the low pressure area! So going from that opening the right hand side of the engine lid should see a good improvement.

So far my plans are:

Wrap exhaust manifold (looks like a pain in the arse to get off though!)

Wrap 'cold' side of the intercooler piping

When I get brave..Open out the other side of the lid and look in to a fan.

ive had an aluminuim lid on mine at one stage it was 3mm thick with strategically placed vents, no pins or latches. at 80km it would start to lift (about an inch). at about 140kmh it was halfway up , that seeme to be the limit of lift for it as i genuinely tried t see how high it would go at faster speeds "closed roads *cough cough*"


i had a fan under the cooler when i had your current setup in my own car and as feral said it does work fairly good at low speed but once you get on the fwy it doesnt do much for you. i would really suggest that an external air feed would be more advantageous

[kingmick]

If you want to know where to get the cold air from on a aw11, look at Ghetto's filter setup!

[GasedT18]

Kingmick

If you reallly want air to air do a setup like Adsports roof mount setup

Have to agree (at the expense of lag ?)

Done stylishly if you can - otherwise make an engineering statement

Iirc I believe the MR2's have a side vent on one side only? - unlike my X1/9 (FLRB) which is both sides (and a vented engine cover) - if you can't afford it now consider down the track a side vent on the passengers side - if there's an internal route and/or open up the top cover with vents - could be done stylishly, and an under car scoop.

Baffling off a cool zone is an option but to get a good air flow it should be sealed against firewall, top cover, rear wall and floor pan/guard, if there is one, and that's where the scoop could be fitted - push air from the bottom - suck through the top. The idea is to get this volume at a higher pressure than the hot side. Could be done with thin aluminium sheet preferably sandwich construction with an insulator in between - there's probably a product on the market but I expect it's expensive. It might be hard to make it look good and getting a seal on a moving engine would be creative. I can't see where the IC mounts clearly from the picks though.

Fluke amongst others make dual input thermocouple thermometers that have a differential temp. function - fit fine wire thermocouples in the airstream before and after the IC and you will be able to tell if it is doing any good.

David