Intercooler piping...protecting from heat?

[IN 05 NT]

ive got my turbo side of the cooler pipe heat wrapped as that was gwtting quite hot from the manifold, manifold is heat wrapped, and also has a heat shiled over it too,

i had the spare heat tape so thought what the heck....plus it covesrs up some of my dodgy welding

blake

[2jzhilux]

would hooking up a series of spray nozzles/tiny sprinklers to the intercooler help and hook it up to a washer bottle
when you need it hit the washer jets and get the intercooler covered in fine mist spray= cooler temps right??
maybe this would be possible maybe not
you said you wanted ghetto it doesnt get much more ghetto than buying your shit at a hardware

[Mr Ed]

would hooking up a series of spray nozzles/tiny sprinklers to the intercooler help and hook it up to a washer bottle
when you need it hit the washer jets and get the intercooler covered in fine mist spray= cooler temps right??
maybe this would be possible maybe not

Is possible but works out a bit more complicated than expected. I tried making a ghetto method a while ago realised without a high pressure system and proper jets you end up running too much water, tank emptys too quick and leaves puddles where-ever you go.

Dont think you can use them on tracks either, safety issue for other cars.

[feral4mr2]

would hooking up a series of spray nozzles/tiny sprinklers to the intercooler help and hook it up to a washer bottle
when you need it hit the washer jets and get the intercooler covered in fine mist spray= cooler temps right??

sure the water spray evaporating will help cool the i/c, but you still need better/more air flow through the i/c in the aw11.

Do 4As have a water line plumbed into the throttle/idle control system?

they do, but IMO the amount of air passing through the TB, the small amount of heat generated by the hot coolant wouldnt make much difference in the heat in the charge air.

making an adaptor plate from fibreglass or some other material to insulate the whole inlet manifold from the head thus stopping heat transfer from the head to the inlet manifold (feel how hot the inlet manifold is after a good run), would be far more benifitial (<spelling?) than disconnecting the coolant lines from the TB.

[Mr Ed]

they do, but IMO the amount of air passing through the TB, the small amount of heat generated by the hot coolant wouldnt make much difference in the heat in the charge air.

Ive heard good reports from people doing it on 2JZ, thats why I suggested it. WIll be doing it on mine shortly but on the one that doesnt run yet so I wont be able to provide any direct before/after comparissons.

[deviant]

I thought about a waterspray but as has been mentioned its harder than it looks to make it work nicely. I know mullet tried it but doing it on the cheap with brass retic nozzles but just made water run out and spray all over the place. Maybe an old fuel injector could be used?

I keep toying with the idea of opening out the drivers side of the engine lid (if you look at an MR2 engine lid you can see the 2 grills on it...only the passanger side on is actually open to the engine bay) to let more air through and sticking a nice big fan in it but I'm not sure that I am brave enough to go chopping holes in it just yet!!

Cheers for the help guys!

[feral4mr2]

I keep toying with the idea of opening out the drivers side of the engine lid (if you look at an MR2 engine lid you can see the 2 grills on it...only the passanger side on is actually open to the engine bay) to let more air through and sticking a nice big fan in it but I'm not sure that I am brave enough to go chopping holes in it just yet!!

i plan on doing that with the lil feral's eng lid too. but no fan.

[deviant]

How do you propose doing it? Just cutting out the bits between the ridges or cut the entire square piece out and make a new one to bog in its place?

[Ben Wilson]

Do 4As have a water line plumbed into the throttle/idle control system?

2Js do and Im bypassing mine to try and help intake temps, I have no need for a the system as they were designed to stop the throttle freezing shut in cold Japanese weather and Im in sunny Qld.

At least on the 4A, the water pipe is part of the idle control system. As ZEs are hard enough to make idle nicely at the best of times, I think removing components will just compound the problem.

[Squid]

Mate used a vht paint on his airbox and it made a noticeable effect on temp difference between the outside (to hot to touch) and the inside, just barely warm. The box is aluminium. I assume it would work on pipes as well, came in a spray pack but it wasn't particulary cheap.

[feral4mr2]

How do you propose doing it? Just cutting out the bits between the ridges or cut the entire square piece out and make a new one to bog in its place?

going to use a air saw to trim the underside panel out (the eng lid is 2 peice), and then i'll most probably use my belt sander from underneathe aswell to carefully sand the bottom of the vents away leaving them open like the other side. if i cannot sand them like i want to, then i'll use the air saw to trim them all out (but prefer not to).

might have a go at it when i'm on break in 2 weeks.

[kingmick]

For all the trouble Deviant, in an aw11 a good water to air is the way to go!
If you reallly want air to air do a setup like Adsports roof mount setup.
If you really want an air to air in the engine bay, but a vent in the drivers side of the lid and get an alloy heat shield made up that runs from the cockpit firewall to the boot, that runs along the back of the 4a block, this will spilt the engine bay in two and get rid of the heat from the exhaust.
Drivers side vent will get the exhaust heat out and passanger side vent will get the intercooler heat out and you will get far less heatsink.

[deviant]

going to use a air saw to trim the underside panel out (the eng lid is 2 peice), and then i'll most probably use my belt sander from underneathe aswell to carefully sand the bottom of the vents away leaving them open like the other side. if i cannot sand them like i want to, then i'll use the air saw to trim them all out (but prefer not to).

might have a go at it when i'm on break in 2 weeks.

I think the lid is fibreglass isnt it? Should be able to do it that way pretty easily then!! How do you propose to stop water getting in on the few occasions it rains? Keep us updated on it!

Cheers for the advice mick. I think a heatshield shouldnt be to hard to make to protect the cooler.

[feral4mr2]

yea it is fibreglass.
water? haha.. i squirt my engines with a hose and it doesnt bother them, so a little rain wont bother it either..
i'm making a custom fibreglass w2a core, but it'll be close to the original i/c vent holes, thats why i want to open the other side so the eng heat still has somewhere to go. if i wasnt trying to keep the lil feral looking stock.... then it'll have a big mofo vented eng lid on it.

i used to have a small aluminium heat sheild between the engine and i/c on the feral when it was gze'd.

[killabeez]

Ive made a ghetto sprayer setup on my 31 works great, ended up using a washer bottle and squirter, it can run 5 mist jets, works out at using 18ml a second, the mist jets can be bought from bunnings etc-, just make sure u get a one way valve if the sprayers are lower than the bottle as you will gravity drain the tank when its not in use. I also have one of these air scoops for my AW11, kind of works like a ram air intake, u can get em from ebay in the US, costs around $200, my complete water spray system cost me around $35