Originally Posted by SXY
Errrr what 16v would vvti would this be?
hey guys just got a 20v onversion done to my ae93 gti corolla
kms on engine unknown
new water pump
new timing belt
all new external seals
new drive shafts
new excedy clutch
machined flywheel
rebuilt gearbox c56 (i think) its just the std 100kw 16v box
trumpets with redline filters
ems stinger ecu
new radiator
headers
it made 78.6 fwkw
i think it has been tuned pretty safe rev limeted at about 7200 as the mechanic said it didnt make any more power after this so it was pointless reving the engine that hard.
is this true??
the other thing is you cant feel the vvti kick in not like the twin cam 16v you used to feel it kick in hard with the 20v its smooth power the exhuast note change thats all about 4500 to 5000rpm
just looking for more power i washoping at about 100fwkw to 120fwkw
whats mods should be next??
thinking cams head machining??
whats sorta bang for my bucks should i be expecting to pay?
dont want to turbo as it my missus car on p plates still and i like na power better anyways!
Originally Posted by SXY
Errrr what 16v would vvti would this be?
MX83 Grande
DirtyWan Skyline GX
Originally Posted by Hibba
NOT VVTI 16V VVTI 20V AND TWIN CAM 16V
FORGOT TO ADD MY CAR IS STILL RUNNING AIRCON AND POWER STEER WOULD THIS MAKE MY POWER OUTPUT GRATELY LOWER?
If the tuner was hot and had it on to cool him down while on the dyno it may have sucked a couple of kwFORGOT TO ADD MY CAR IS STILL RUNNING AIRCON .................... WOULD THIS MAKE MY POWER OUTPUT GRATELY LOWER?![]()
79kW isn't bad for a stock silvertop.
A set of mild cams and a bit of a port tidy up will get you some more power, but without spending big dollars there isn't a whole lot more to be gained.
Strange things are afoot at the circle K
Up the compression, cold air intake, cams. All this will help get more power.
Remove extra weight, back seats, jack, big stereo, air con. This will help make more of what you have.
I think Id maybe just have a full exhaust and then some work on the suspension to help make the car more fun, rather than just more power on a dyno.
HZJ75, RS41, JZZ30
Did your tuner know that vvt should actually be turned off around 7k -ish rpm? and sometimes you can actually notice a slight kick when it turns off, I forget exactly what rpm factory ecus turn it off, but I've set mine to turn off at round 6800. I'm just suggesting that might be why it stopped making more power over 7200Originally Posted by SXY
yeah, more compression and cams will give you gains, it will be getting expensive though.
got any pics of your engine bay? I just wanna look at the ramtube / filters
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=83259
'88 A.D.M aw11 '98 4age 20v blacktop
NA: 14.745@150kmh at willowbank. On E85 with 6psi boost: 13.573@165kmh. ~8psi: 13.187 @169.9kmh. >10psi: 12.9 rod fragments @ 174mm holes in block
daily: '93 ae101 Levin coupe. Motorbike: '09 Suzuki GSR600: 12.358@179kmh at Willowbank
sorry it does have exhasut extractors 4 into 2 into 1 size is 2 1/2" into cats the 2 1/4 cats back with a cannon
not sure about whether he knew it turns off at 7000ish i definatly didnt know that
how much $$$$$ am i looking at for cams and a head job! lol i like the sound of that!
anywhere you can recomend in sydney?
whats sorta power will the sdt fuel pump and injectors hold out for b4 they max out? or should i be looking to upgrade them soon aswell.
trying to do everything proply as im never selling this car its going to be 1 i hold onto for years to come!
mmmk the best thing you can do it throw the factory trumpets and airbox back on, they will greatly increase your bottom end and mid range torque, vvt shows best results from being turned on at 3-3500 rmp and off at 6500-6800 rpm, you will not need to upgrade the injectors bout 450 each camshaft, but expect to loose alot of driveabliity, porting? get a die grinder and do it yourself, just be careful around anything valve related
i wouldnt recommed porting your own head if you dont know what the next steps to extracting more n/a power would be - you will ruin a good head
100-110 fwkw is definitely achievable but you will need aftermarket ecu, cams, compression, custom 4-1 (yes 4-1 not 4-2-1) headers and balancing the whole reciprocating mass including clutch and flywheel to get the extra revs - id also throw in an oil cooler for safety - just remember this will no longer be really driveable in traffic, and will feel like a nugget below 4000rpm
120fwkw n/a is getting VERY expensive and high tech - thats where tuning for your inlet tract and exhaust as well as the head geometry will come into play - not worth it in my opinion
st162
Gen 3 3sge N/A - 146.3 front wheel hp (109fwkw) -
NOW 178HP @ Front Wheels - N/A Gen 3![]()
Soon to be hi-comp turbo'd....
my silvertop still pulls hard at 7200, i would recomend raising that limit to 8200
if you want any decent powe rthat ypu can brag about and are goin to keep the car then
save your money and turbo it
its the best and sort of reliable when done right bang for your buck
whats your budget?
the VVT in stock ECU is switched on at 3000rpm and then off again at 6000rpm.
Stock redline is 8200rpm.
...... butt scratcher?!
dont really want to turbo it like na power probly want to spend no more than $2500 on the engine atm
lost my camera when i find it ill get pics up
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