22RE/RT142 (a) "Engine" light and (b) vac lines

[Shifty]

Hi guys

(a) The engine light has been on in my RT142 since I bought it.

I figure it can't be anything too drastic as back in 1984 they weren't particularly techo and the thing runs fine. I'm half inclined to pull the bulb out. I assume it's just dropped a wire somewhere or something... is there a diagnostics system and error code listing? I did a search and couldn't find anything. I've disconnected the battery for a while and reconnected it, the engine light is on as soon as you turn the key back on.

(b) The vacuum lines on this thing are all over the bloody place. I pulled it apart without a service manual and didn't mark them... I took a guess and the thing has been running fine but I'm certain I have some/all of them wrong. I have another RT142 but it has heaps of EGR gear and about ten times as many vac lines so I can't copy it. The sticker is also gone from under the bonnet.

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The car drives fine despite the above, although it does idle very high in Park/Neutral. When you pop it in gear there's a bit of a thunk as it engages (I assume due to the higher revs) and then the revs drop to a normal idle level. Idle screw is backed off all the way, the throttle is definitely against the stopper and the ignition timing is set correctly.

When first starting the car from cold it is a little temperamental - while my other RT142 starts first turn.

[o_man_ra23]

engine light can be a faulty sensor. There is a 4 pin plug in the engine bay on the exhaust side near the firewall. If you get a haynes manual (best investment you will make) they have the instructions on how to get the fault codes, and what they mean.

Rough idling and hard to start, I have a feeling you have dropped either the water or air temperature sensor, or the Air Flow Meter is sticking, and the engine could be running lean. Check the plugs, if they arent black, its lean, if they are coated in thick black shit, its rich.

Also, try some carby cleaner down the throat (clean all the sensors and AFM), and run some injector cleaner through your tank, incase the injectors are clogged a bit.

The engine diagnostics were fairly simple, but quite effective back in the 80s. They will point you in the right direction and shouldnt be ignored/disregarded.

Cheers, Owen

[Shifty]

I'm a little bit loathe to buy a Haynes manual as I have no use for it other than the engine codes (especially as I already have an ST141 manual). Surely it's on Toymods somewhere

[Shifty]

I've just been searching Google:

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

Assuming the codes are standard across the board then this will be very helpful.

[o_man_ra23]

Do you know anyone nearby with a generic RWD celica manual who will lend it to you?? Check out the 22RE section there.

Also, the RT142 manual will help with wiring and torque settings.

Cheers, Owen

[ra65]

Feel free to spread some rep I can nearly sell.

RT142 is tccs ecu

[Shifty]

The only wiring I ever do is to install a stereo, and I know it's a little amateurish but I tend to do things up FT and don't remember the last time I've used a torque wrench OUTSIDE an engine. As for friends... as they average about 30yo, very few of my mates have cars more than a few years old, and noone I can think of that has/had a Celica in recent times.

Holy shit, how good are you? Exactly what I needed. Reppity rep.

[Shifty]

After having printed it and taken it to the car, that diagram is different to my 22R. Mine has no vac lines to the dizzy and the green VSV near the temp sensor doesn't exist.

Also bummed out on the engine diagnostics - I jumpered the wires for the diagnostics, and popped the EFI fuse. The EFI relay also got REALLY hot. I replaced the fuse and to be safe I replaced the relay with another, and it did the same thing. Farkin.

[ra65]

[o_man_ra23]

Also bummed out on the engine diagnostics - I jumpered the wires for the diagnostics, and popped the EFI fuse. The EFI relay also got REALLY hot. I replaced the fuse and to be safe I replaced the relay with another, and it did the same thing. Farkin.

Im pretty sure there are 4 wires going to the diag plug. Two will be the jump items. Then you will have one going to earth, and one which has a 12V blinking output for the diagnostic light. You may have shorted the power side of the jumper to the ground. Check with a multimeter which wire goes to earth, and which one already has 12V. Then the 12V will go to one of the floating wires. Ill have a squiz at my manual tonight if the answer has not already been presented.

Cheers, Owen

[Shifty]

Any details to confirm where the plug is/what colour the wires are would be tops

[Shifty]

Interestingly my vac line setup is as per that US one. My other 22R is completely different to both of those, though.

O, any luck finding the wire colours/location?

[Shifty]

Okay, scratch that, I've been able to figure it out. On my car there are three plugs - one with 1 wire, one with 2 wires and one with 3 wires. It's the two-wire plug, just jumper the two together.

I'm getting code 4 and code 11. I'll pinch the coolant sensor off my other 22RE (which isn't giving an error code) and as for the other I don't even know where to start. And no, the aircon doesn't work. Perhaps I could just pull the A/C fuse (assuming there is one) and that would isolate the switch from the system hence eliminating the error if that is it.

Thoughts?

[ra65]

Check TPS for code 11 more likely than the aircon. They are around $120 new from toyota. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml